Any Welders near me?

[clivvy]

Good, it's nice to have support! I feel much better now knowing that the problem really isn't as bad as I thought, certainly not welding required bad!!! I might even get lucky and pass mot without any mechanical issues!!

 

[makeitfit]

I guess I know what you think, but, how is your body seperate from the sill?

 

[clivvy]

I guess I know what you think, but, how is your body seperate from the sill?

Well, there is a gap between that, and the actual sill/chassis. The car body is moulded at that point to sit over the structure, and welded in place at a seem underneath. It's very thin metal, so can't be structural, it's body, not chassis. What do you think?

 

[makeitfit]

hmmmm, I dont think so :augie
Maybe a more experianced chappie will be along later, but I think it is all one piece body AND sill.
It's not chassis and is thin but it's the proximity to the body mounts to chassis points that's the fail , I think.
Got any pics of your findings?

 

[clivvy]

I'll post up some new pics tonight, see if we can get to the bottom of this!

 

[clivvy]

ok, updated pics. Both are drivers side, and we have hacked away all the weak rust, what you see left is strong. The visible parts behind the broken bit is the sill yes? the bit broken is the body work that sits around the sill?? so seperate chassis/body is my understanding?

 

[lacroupade]

Not quite sure what you mean clivvy....the rusty bit with the flange on bottom is the sill....and yes its not a monocoque, i.e. its seperate body and chassis.....thats all a body lift is, its puts spacers between the chassis ladder and the body.

If its the sill thats fecked then I'm sure you have to plate it (can't get parts). But I have been known to be wrong before.

I'm not sure a hole in the sill would be a fail unless its within a certain distance of the chassis mounting points....in which case its obviously a potential point of weakness....

 

[clivvy]

All I mean is to fill that hole and smooth, isn't that acceptable consideringvthat actual chassis is solid underneath?

 

[makeitfit]

NO still NO and NO again...........The sill on these is never far enough away from the chassis mounting points to be "non structural" as per the mot guff.
Sure you could do a grind off, fill and paint and probably get away with it. That's up to you, but I suppose there's some strength lost as a result, but who knows how much?:augie
I'm amazed you've still not got a bloody welder your way!

 

[clivvy]

...tell me about it!

 

[zippy656]

no body shop want to know then??

 

[clivvy]

Haven't tried, I havefocussed on welding because that's what I have been told, although some have suggested a fibre glass fill plus p40, but I am getting conflicting arguments! I have acouple more places to call this week, I just need solid verification on wether to weld that hole, or fill it!

 

[lacroupade]

Haven't tried, I havefocussed on welding because that's what I have been told, although some have suggested a fibre glass fill plus p40, but I am getting conflicting arguments! I have acouple more places to call this week, I just need solid verification on wether to weld that hole, or fill it!

clivvy I see rust but i don't see a hole yet? what hole exactly are you talking about here - or is that an inner and outer skin in the pic - |I thought it was just the surface flaking off?

 

[extreme-4x4]

just hack off the loose stuff with a hammer and or screwdriver . get a wire brush bit for your drill and clean it all up.

seal it with some rust eater type stuff . fill it with some body filler so its smooth , and underseal it ....... job done


2-3 hours and your away.....

if you get holes while hacking away . expanding foam and then fill it .


just so its mot'd .... you got a year then to get it done at your leisure


:thumbs

 

[tezzer]

good idea colin, but it's a pain in the arse for the guy doing the welding, and it could put the price up, as you know it's the prep work that takes the time, welding only takes a few minutes if prepared properly.:thumbs:doh

 

[clivvy]

ok guys, really sorry for my lack of emchanical knowledge, but let me describe it more accuratly.

Lacroupade asks: clivvy I see rust but i don't see a hole yet? what hole exactly are you talking about here - or is that an inner and outer skin in the pic - |I thought it was just the surface flaking off?

yes, its the surface that has flaked off, no actual holes exist. What you see there is the body that wraps around the chassis-the chassis is rock solid and even silver in some places. so the OUTER skin has come off, the INNER bit is solid. there is a finger depth gap between the inner/outer, which is why i think I can fill it and it be safe.

 

[clivvy]

just hack off the loose stuff with a hammer and or screwdriver . get a wire brush bit for your drill and clean it all up.

seal it with some rust eater type stuff . fill it with some body filler so its smooth , and underseal it ....... job done


2-3 hours and your away.....

if you get holes while hacking away . expanding foam and then fill it .


just so its mot'd .... you got a year then to get it done at your leisure


:thumbs

thats the plan matey, thanks for the vote, i have been told by a few people this is the way to go, and will still be as strong as the original metal it is replacing.

 

[lacroupade]

ok guys, really sorry for my lack of emchanical knowledge, but let me describe it more accuratly.

Lacroupade asks: clivvy I see rust but i don't see a hole yet? what hole exactly are you talking about here - or is that an inner and outer skin in the pic - |I thought it was just the surface flaking off?

yes, its the surface that has flaked off, no actual holes exist. What you see there is the body that wraps around the chassis-the chassis is rock solid and even silver in some places. so the OUTER skin has come off, the INNER bit is solid. there is a finger depth gap between the inner/outer, which is why i think I can fill it and it be safe.

still lost me clivvy - the chassis ladder is that dirty great girder behind, all you should have apart from that are a few struts providing extra support to the body shell.....just like a Landy chassis really...so what you're thinking of 'inside' the sill I don't know.....I suspect its just the sill moulding folded back on itself? The sill certainly isn't part of the chassis as far as I'm aware....remember the principle behind a body lift on these trucks - if you undo the necessary bolts the whole bodyshell just lifts off the chassis...

 

[clivvy]

still lost me clivvy - the chassis ladder is that dirty great girder behind, all you should have apart from that are a few struts providing extra support to the body shell.....just like a Landy chassis really...so what you're thinking of 'inside' the sill I don't know.....I suspect its just the sill moulding folded back on itself? The sill certainly isn't part of the chassis as far as I'm aware....remember the principle behind a body lift on these trucks - if you undo the necessary bolts the whole bodyshell just lifts off the chassis...

sorry mate, I dont know the corect terminology, but you got it there "I suspect its just the sill moulding folded back on itself?" its that bit thats rusted, NOT the chassis. Thing is, I have seen landy owners just remove that entire panel and replace with rock sliders!

 

[tezzer]

i know what you mean, the angle piece that returns from bottom of sill upto the floor, (am i right) if it is, down in my area that would be upto the tester, because it is within a certain distance form a structural point. i've had motors both fail and pass on the same problem, i dont argue with them, i would rather weld it, it is a pain to get to though. :naughty