Aaaaaargh!

[(RIP) PLANK]

could you just put an in-line fuse holder in it's place? or a couple of crimp on connectors and push them on to a blade fuse?

 

[rayf3262]

could you just put an in-line fuse holder in it's place? or a couple of crimp on connectors and push them on to a blade fuse?

60~80 Amps... glow plugs run through this!!!!
First thing to do is with a meter check between chassis and non-battery side of the fuse to ensure you are not looking at a dead short.. just to ensure there are no nasty surprises

 

[Stuarty]

Getting somwhere now the fuseable link is burnt out so stripped it back and bodged up a new one just to try it and see what happens so i put a new wire in and connected it back up then connected the positive battery terminal and got some big sparks so disconected again and the wire that i used on the link was red hot also noticed that when the fuseable link was connected again i lost the only systems that i have working ie front and back lights and the power going to the auto box mode switch and when the link is removed these two return to working order so im thinking i have got a short circuit somwhere what you guys reckon does that sound feasable?Also the big thick wire that goes from the alternator is connected to the ngative battery terminal acording to the beeper on the multimeter is that right?

 

[rayf3262]

Getting somwhere now the fuseable link is burnt out so stripped it back and bodged up a new one just to try it and see what happens so i put a new wire in and connected it back up then connected the positive battery terminal and got some big sparks so disconected again and the wire that i used on the link was red hot also noticed that when the fuseable link was connected again i lost the only systems that i have working ie front and back lights and the power going to the auto box mode switch and when the link is removed these two return to working order so im thinking i have got a short circuit somwhere what you guys reckon does that sound feasable?Also the big thick wire that goes from the alternator is connected to the ngative battery terminal acording to the beeper on the multimeter is that right?

before it happend i was doing some mild offroading just down dirt tracks to the river there was alot of mud and the wheel arches are filthy with thick mud also i bellied it a wee bit but i had a look and all that touched was the rear diff and the front sump guard could this have anything to do with my loss of power?

There's a clue is in what you said earlier!

Where on the alternator does this "big thick wire" connect to? output terminal or chassis?
I am wondering if your alternator has given up due to the good bashing its had...???? If so disconnect the big thick wire and reconnect the battery see if your makeshift fuse still gets hot!

 

[Stuarty]

Good thinking it dosent seem to be an earth it runs into a loom that in turn goes over to the fuse box and the battery i will disconnect it and report back my findings.

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

60~80 Amps... glow plugs run through this!!!!
First thing to do is with a meter check between chassis and non-battery side of the fuse to ensure you are not looking at a dead short.. just to ensure there are no nasty surprises

ok, ignore my suggestion :doh

 

[Stuarty]

:thumb2 right now we may be getting somwhere.

Ok disconected the main wire from the alternator and conected my bodged feusable link and all sytems came back to life :thumbs so i removed the alternator and called Milners and they have sent me a replacement alternator it should be here tomorrow looks like im not going to Norway until fri or sat now so fingers crossed il get the truck back to life before then .
Once the alternator was out i checked the continuity of the main line from the alternator and got a connection on the positive and negative battery terminals as opsed to just the negative terminal when the alternator was still conected should that be right or should it just be going to the positive terminal?

Thanks for all the advice guys i wouldnt have got this far this quickly without your help :thumb2

Anybody got one of those feusable link thingys lying around that i could buy from them

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

I did a bit of a search and found some 80 100 and 120 amp 12v fuses on ebay and maplins stock a few things if you choose to go down the 'alternative' route. All the best with it :thumb2

 

[Stuarty]

Perfect thanks for that will look into it just hope that it is the alternator at fault but wont know till the new one is in place.

 

[rayf3262]

:thumb2 right now we may be getting somwhere.

Ok disconected the main wire from the alternator and conected my bodged feusable link and all sytems came back to life :thumbs so i removed the alternator and called Milners and they have sent me a replacement alternator it should be here tomorrow looks like im not going to Norway until fri or sat now so fingers crossed il get the truck back to life before then .
Once the alternator was out i checked the continuity of the main line from the alternator and got a connection on the positive and negative battery terminals as opsed to just the negative terminal when the alternator was still conected should that be right or should it just be going to the positive terminal?

Thanks for all the advice guys i wouldnt have got this far this quickly without your help :thumb2

Anybody got one of those feusable link thingys lying around that i could buy from them

I presume you have the alternator off the vehicle or disconnected, Just check the free end that normally connects to the alternator main output for 12V.
Should be fine then for when you get the new one.

Please DO disconnect the battery overnight until you are sure everything is good to go, you don't want to come out to a fire!
:thumbs

 

[Stuarty]

Yeah the alternators on the bench in the garage and yes the battery is isolated dont want to take any chances with it

Ok do you mean starting the engine and seeing if there is voltage coming back to the alternator feed?shouldnt be?

 

[rayf3262]

Yeah the alternators on the bench in the garage and yes the battery is isolated dont want to take any chances with it

Ok do you mean starting the engine and seeing if there is voltage coming back to the alternator feed?shouldnt be?

No need to start it... just double check it is as it should be. Should be battery voltage there.

Sounds as if the diode pack in the alternator has crapped out big time!

 

[Stuarty]

Ok i will go and check now :thumb2

 

[Stuarty]

Yep gettin 12 v back down that wire.

 

[Stuarty]

It lives again,changed out the alternator and all is well so hoping that the alternator was at fault and not some other underlying problem.

Big thanks to all who gave me info and advice on this matter :thumb2

cheers

stuart.

 

[rayf3262]

It lives again,changed out the alternator and all is well so hoping that the alternator was at fault and not some other underlying problem.

Big thanks to all who gave me info and advice on this matter :thumb2

cheers

stuart.

As I said:
Sounds as if the diode pack in the alternator has crapped out big time!
so the alternator is probably easily repairable and good for a spare.. don't bin it just yet.
Anyhow good to get to the bottom of it.:clap

 

[Stuarty]

Thanks yeah hope it was just a faulty alternator it was only three months old so milners sent me a new one free of charge and i have returned the old one to them so they can diagnose the failed components.