4WD problemette...

[MontysMaverick]

Just a thought....

Following on from what others have said, Id throw in camber and caster maybe needs correction, with all this crap weather about its easy to throw it out a little with all these ruts around and drifts etc, worth a punt to rule it out and put the old mind at ease.. can always be checked when the tyres are checked good luck

 

[rayf3262]

PITA in this weather but I would be inclined to rotate the wheels around the truck and see if that has any affect.

 

[lacroupade]

paul have you actually checked the oil in the front diff ?

TBH I haven't, but it started doing it all at once and I haven't got any leaks...but soon as the temperature here gets back above freezing point

spanner newark (dislexia rules ko !)here sorry late.

fixed hub so everything spins all way to dog clutch n transfer box.

including front prop, after all front diff doesnt have owt selectable.

tyre pressures, could lead to slight wind up, and whine.

See this is the bit I can't get my head around; when you've got fixed hubs, where exactly are you engaging/disengaging 4WD?? I'm always pretty tight on maintaining correct tyre pressures so can't see it would be a problem.

PITA in this weather but I would be inclined to rotate the wheels around the truck and see if that has any affect.

I'm about to stick my AT2s back on so will see if that changes anything...

BUT, vis-a-vis a point Karl made upstairs, the diff is offset to the nearside isn't it? So if there was a problem with that it would sound like a nearside wheel/drive problem?

Anyone know how complex that box of tricks is and if its economically refurbishable? Just want to try and have a list of things for the garage to check - its hard work these days finding someone competent with 4WD who can quickly diagnose issues like this....

Thanks for your input ladies. Much appreciated...:thumb2

 

[makeitfit]

I've got a front diff here if you want a complete lump, a decent bottle of port secures it:sly

 

[lacroupade]

I've got a front diff here if you want a complete lump, a decent bottle of port secures it:sly

oh but that sounds like hard work Pete, and its cold

But I'll try and get a diagnosis first then maybe break out the 20 year-old mmmmmmm...in fact forget it, I'll just drink the port and buy a Landie LOL

 

[briggie]

have a bottle of dalwhinnie 15 yr old single malt ive been given , cant wait till christmass ...... oh stuff it lol

 

[solarman216]

I bough to superior knowledge, Rick

 

[lacroupade]

I bough to superior knowledge, Rick

different not superior.....LOL:thumbs

But just to clarify, I've defo got full 4WD, its just the noise I can't resolve, but will drop it into the local greasemonkeys and let them have a little fiddle...damn!

 

[makeitfit]

But I'll try and get a diagnosis first then maybe break out the 20 year-old mmmmmmm...in fact forget it, I'll just drink the port and buy a Landie LOL

Arrgh, shocking plan.............drink the port:thumbs
Buy a landie

 

[lacroupade]

Arrgh, shocking plan.............drink the port:thumbs
Buy a landie

you can't beat a nice drop of really old port...someone gave the wife an F&M hamper last year with a bottle of 20 year old in it.....I can't tell you how beautifully that sweet stuff slipped down my throat....I think I know how a woman feels now

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

on a a part time 4x4 same place we all do when you throw the lever into 4hi.

locks the rear output shaft to the front one, even on auto hubs this is the
point of no return, split second later the front prop via the diff and the half
shafts locks the front wheels via the auto hubs. once these locked all front
end spins like your fixed hub front end, providing you dont reverse in 2 hi
auto hubb'ed front ends will continue to be spinning waiting for that old dog
clutch to kick in.

the transfer lever combines 2 separate functions of engaging 4wd and
high to low. on some boxes its possible to split the functions, via twin lever
conversion. handy if you wanted to shunt heavy on hard surface, though
care would be needed due to torque doubling effect of low box. the same
effect can be unofficially enjoyed with manual hubs as the 4wd spin all
way down to the unlocked hubs but the front wheels would get the drive.

for more fun could fit manual hubs to rear axle and simulate front wheel
drive or save the rear prop on a suspended tow, like an enhanced version
of truck being in neutral in transfer box....

 

[lacroupade]

Aaaah - Thank you Grasshopper.:bow

 

[tezzer]

oh but that sounds like hard work Pete, and its cold

But I'll try and get a diagnosis first then maybe break out the 20 year-old mmmmmmm...in fact forget it, I'll just drink the port and buy a Landie LOL

2 bottles paul, and pete will supply and fit it for you, might take awhile though, he will probably be pi**ed. :lol:thumbs

 

[solarman216]

on a a part time 4x4 same place we a providing you dont reverse in 2 hi
..

You can reverse in 2 hi and 4 wheel drive will not disengage, it will only disengage once you stop driving the shafts from the box, Rick

 

[kbekl]

You can reverse in 2 hi and 4 wheel drive will not disengage, it will only disengage once you stop driving the shafts from the box, Rick

if you reverse in 4wd with hubs locked it will unlock and then relock, and upon going forwards it will unlock and again relock as the locking hubs are directionally locked

 

[rustic]

....right, no barrack room mechanics please, need someone who knows their way around the diff/front drive :lol

When I engage 4WD on my fixed-hub Mk IV I get a kind of low frequency whining and mild vibration, and the truck seems to want to wander slightly off to the right.

There are no symptoms in 2WD and apart from the noise, 4WD does function normally otherwise.

At the moment I suspect the CV joint - wheel bearing would be noisy in 2WD and it isn't - but is there anything else in the drive chain up front that might be the cause?

And if it is CV, how costly are the bits does anyone know?

Cheers m'dears....:thumb2

I've read all the threads, but I assume you are on a slippy surface when you do this, as you will get wind up if all 4 tyres are not exactly the same, pressure, tread depth, and make etc.

Yesterday I was out in the mav, auto hubs engaged, slipping in and out of 4 wheel drive, and on a straight section of ice covered road, I tried the brakes, and the Mav stopped quite easily without any skidding.

So maybe the slippy stuff isn't as slippy as you first thought, thus the wind up.
A few winters ago I was in Minesota and the temperature was -20C and the ice under foot was not slippy, I was wearing smooth soles at the time and the ice was as hard as concrete, and as grippy, I was very surprised.

If you took a glass of water throw the water into the air, it hit the ground as ice crystals. At -30C you can do the same with red wine. (What a waste)
Never tried it with Malt whisky, unless it was inside me first....:lol:lol

 

[lacroupade]

I've read all the threads, but I assume you are on a slippy surface when you do this, as you will get wind up if all 4 tyres are not exactly the same, pressure, tread depth, and make etc.

Yesterday I was out in the mav, auto hubs engaged, slipping in and out of 4 wheel drive, and on a straight section of ice covered road, I tried the brakes, and the Mav stopped quite easily without any skidding.

So maybe the slippy stuff isn't as slippy as you first thought, thus the wind up.
A few winters ago I was in Minesota and the temperature was -20C and the ice under foot was not slippy, I was wearing smooth soles at the time and the ice was as hard as concrete, and as grippy, I was very surprised.

If you took a glass of water throw the water into the air, it hit the ground as ice crystals. At -30C you can do the same with red wine. (What a waste)
Never tried it with Malt whisky, unless it was inside me first....:lol:lol

Damned thing has been doing it everywhere,from wet roads, through a foot of snow on the autoroute to sheet ice on the way up to my house in wales, with no variation

 

[rustic]

Damned thing has been doing it everywhere,from wet roads, through a foot of snow on the autoroute to sheet ice on the way up to my house in wales, with no variation

Well I guess all your front running gear has done many more miles than mine, so it could be CV's or bearings as the bearings will be under more strain while being driven.
Front prop shaft UJ's spring to mind and there is also the sliding coupling as there are 3 grease nipples on the front prop shaft.
If you greased the 3 grease nipples, you may feel a difference, but for a very short time as the grease is squeezed out.
There is more wear somewhere than there used to be, might even be the rear drive train as well.
There are just too many items that when worn will cause this problem, having looked at the other threads. :nenau

 

[lacroupade]

Well I guess all your front running gear has done many more miles than mine, so it could be CV's or bearings as the bearings will be under more strain while being driven.
Front prop shaft UJ's spring to mind and there is also the sliding coupling as there are 3 grease nipples on the front prop shaft.
If you greased the 3 grease nipples, you may feel a difference, but for a very short time as the grease is squeezed out.
There is more wear somewhere than there used to be, might even be the rear drive train as well.
There are just too many items that when worn will cause this problem, having looked at the other threads. :nenau

thats what i'm afraid of, hence the pre-garage diagnostic. but less than 100k miles on this lady so just not sure.

I'll let you know how she gets on in the garage

 

[rayf3262]

If your 02 front prop is anything like my 02 front prop - don't be to surprised if there are no grease nipples.
As for the sliding coupling; it's now coated in a high tech plastic that is self lubricating, it does wear though, and this can give rise to vibration of the front prop.