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Thanks Fez. I was worried about going too far when I did the disc swap I think, so perhaps I left them too loose. Is there a guide to how tight to make them? Just rocked the truck. There was a high-pitched clunk once, then it stopped.

I've noticed for a while now that there's a bit of a knock from the front end. Thought it was ARB links (still might be) but jacking it up, I can move the wheel with my hands at 12 and 6'o'clock. Not very much, but there's definitely play there. Wheel bearings are in good condition and don't...

I have seen ones that strap on to the spare wheel but Google only seems to be able to find them in Australia.

Dinitrol is good, as is Bilt Hamber's stuff. They do Hydrate 80 which you just paint onto rust-affected steel. You need to keep it away from paint though. Bilt Hamber also do a cavity wax, which is good for the chassis and any box sections.

I don't think they have missed the basic facts. They've decided that in the real world, this works. Your example is pure engine power to do one task. A car goes through phases in a journey where one power source works better than another. In theory, with the Ampera (or Chevrolet Volt as it...

The Ampera is different. It has a relatively small petrol engine which acts as a generator. No worries about the batteries running flat! It's the way I've always thought it should be done to be honest. You've got an engine to ensure you can actually do motorway speeds, but around town, it's pure...

Very tricky for water to get into the engine unless you directed water in via the air intake - which I naturally don't recommend. Power washed my Citroen BX's engine bay a couple of weeks ago. If French electrics can cope with a pressure washer, a NisMav should cope with no bother.

Nice one Fez! Here's a shot of my Maverick at the same spot (I think?) as Makeitfit's. The beauty of the LSD is that while mine is waving a wheel several feet in the air (it's stopped here for the photo) it just drove on. A proper locker is better for sure but as has been mentioned, it is...

I suspect the fixed hubs was more to appease the sales teams. None of this 'reverse after you disengage' nonsense. Makes it looks much more like a simple 'on demand' 4x4 selection and therefore makes an attempt to make old technology seem much more up to date when actually it's harking back to...

Unplugged the MAF. That certainly made it run poorly! Plugged it back in, went for a drive and it now seems fine. Which is annoying as the coil arrived today and I haven't tried fitting that yet! There's a very, very occasional, very slight miss, so I might yet fit the new coil and see if that...

That's definitely on the list of things to check, though the Downloads section only has info about the diesel. One thing that's annoying me is the new king lead. The old one seems to actually be part of the cover that goes over the coil (this and the dizzy cover is why it keeps going in water I...

Yeah. Cheap tat. Even branded stuff seems awful. My 2CV is on points-assisted ignition, which is much better. No more condenser woes!

The rotor arm was spectacularly dreadful I must admit. However, it ran no worse with the new items fitted - just also no better! Might get some genuine ones to keep in the car...

Actually, the misfire has been much reduced by new leads. Still a very slight miss. Will see what the new coil does.

Well, gradually replacing all ignition components! HT leads failed to cure it, so trying a coil next. Problem is, I'm out in the sticks so every time I have to order something, it takes several days for progress. Annoying.

Well, I found somewhere selling coil packs for about £27 (wasn't even looking for a coil pack at the time!) so could be a lot worse. I'll get some new leads on it tomorrow and will see. It's proved very good at handling water though. An unexpectedly deep stream crossing had water washing over...

Leads look likely. Just connected a strobe up to each lead. Definitely some uneven firing. Leads don't exactly look fresh so I'll cough up for some replacements before considering the coil.

I'm hoping I'm not the only one here with a petrol NisMav... Changing the rotor arm and dizzy cap has failed to cure a misfire on the Maverick. It's constant, at both idle and with revs. I guess there's a duff sensor somewhere but how do I check which one is to blame? Engine management light is...

Welding up the rear diff seems fair enough, but doing the front as well seems a bit OTT. With effectively a locked centre diff (ie no diff), and a locked rear, I would have thought traction wouldn't really be an issue. Ok, so one of the fronts might spin, but I've seen Landies plug through some...

Hmmm. Despite being in the correct section for the year of my Mav, I managed to order the wrong wheel cylinders. New ones ordered. Will try and make fitting them less of an ordeal this time. At least I know the bolts that hold the wheel cylinder in place will come undone easily...