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a lot going on there :thumb2 one thing that crossed my mind about surface protection which we used when refurbishing a Triumph Herald Chassis to save a few quid. Have a trawl through the reduced bins at paint suppliers, Halfords, B&Q etc. You may well pick up dramatically reduced tins of...

:lol:lol:lol yes , we've no problem with local dehydration

we'll be there in 2 weeks time, cant wait :thumb2:thumb2

Liam,history records the UVF aquitting themselves superbly , i always think its such a shame the name was hijacked .the 60's

Liam, im with Paul on this pics pls :thumb2 like him its an area ive been through many times but never to. Club outing looking good ;)

im starting to agree. I'll concede the 64 bit runs quickly on my laptop (2.4ghz processor + 4 gig ram) BUT so many apps are still 32 bit anyway and i cant find all the settings and what have you that we've been accustomed to since the heady days of win95 :(

Windows 7 is driving me round the bend. I could set up just about anything you wanted on win2000 , i was ok on xp but cant find a f####ing thing on 7 :lol:lol:lol:lol watching with interest ;)

no prob and definitely no need to apologise :thumb2

have to honest i dont know for sure, i have a set of cobalts, not sure what % . maybe try the ones that come in any set you buy first? i would guess as youre being precise the strength of the drill is the most important and the brittleness no great problem. what lube or coolant do they...

hi, these are the exact ones ive used. very very good. theyre from snap on . one advantage they have over the taper ones id forgotten about are the drive colletts. They slide down flush to the surface of the material/chassis so less wobble. im not sure where id go in the uk to buy them but...

thats what i described earlier. however the problem is heavier duty the application the studs relate to, the more precise youve got to be to try and not damage them. Drilling to the end is the last resort engineering wise. Using extractors you have more of a chance of no as opposed to minimum...

:eek::eek::eek: and no more dogs breath ;) well done , what are you going to reward yourself with ?

not being funny but wasnt that posted a number of posts back :doh Nor was it made up , i used info from a mate who is a very senior claims manager for a household name insurer and my own car repair. the advice to briggie remains the same as posted then ............negotiate ;)

good luck :thumb2 the one thing amongst it all that made life easier when i was presented with my first set are the parallel extractors. Being a bit thick I couldnt suss out why until i realised they were effectively using their own splines and not pushing material out the way :doh:doh:doh if...

i was supporting what you said !!!!!!!!

You'll know where i'm coming from then , maybe done the same course hope this isnt teaching you to suck eggs , only the best riggers got a go :naughty:naughty:naughty :D (plus hopefully help anyone else who faces similar :thumb2) Measure the pitch and depth of the thread plus the overall...

that is the key. you cannot reasonably expect refurbishment to a brand new standard. that is unrealistic. its down to sensible negotiation between all parties. shy kids get nowt. all this internet myth about "restoring to as new" , "second hand parts cant be used" is bullshit.

yes, quite easy actually been there/ done it on an airframe ;) but first.............. you dont say if the drilling/extractor failed because theyre too hard/too tight/extractor broken, pls expand and if poss a sample pic :thumb2

cant remember where the handle is but yes, hummerish. i love em in silver and hate them in black :)

no, it would be thoroughly impractical in so many ways. thats why the % value of the car is taken into account against repair costs as a cut off point. if its probable your car is going to be written off its wise to work out the cost of buying a close or exact replacement to make sure you get...