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and a few more here: http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15120&highlight=roof

Here's a pic of the roof with lining removed.. http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=139004&postcount=34 http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=139001&postcount=33

As far as I am aware there is no mini filter on the VP44 IP. Chin up, vac hose failures are not uncommon. The problem is in detecting the leak, a very small leak can cause havoc, but be difficult to spot. May be worth considering buying a few meters of tube and doing a blanket change?

There is no waste gate to get stuck. The ZD30 uses a variable geometry turbo, this can become clagged up though preventing the vanes in the exhaust path from moving. Only a guess, but the "blowing" noise you can hear may be due to the turbo vanes stuck or with limited movement. This could be...

8 & 10MM copper tube is easily available along with compression fittings to suit. My boat diesel fuel lines were all in copper.

Are blue light CPC exempt?

If you pull the rubber stopper off the top of the bonnet switch, the alarm will not set.... peace. It a lot easier the cutting yourself on the many sharp edges in the rear wing void!

I doubt it will make any difference, as the ECU cant really measure the resistance of the sensor. It can only detect S/C, O/C or no pulse! I'd expect it to work OK.

Good point, I had originally marked it up with a voltage sensing relay, which would be ideal, but was trying to think of an easy parts to hand solution. If the radio feed switches as you say then happy days, that is the way to go.

There are two switches on the brake pedal assy. One is for the brake lights the other is for the ECU. May be worth checking both are working correctly.

You could try something like this: Relay 1 will connect and charge the aux battery whenever the engine is running. Relay 2 will disconnect the charging circuit whenever the winch motor is running. Has the advantage of not running high current cable between the batteries.

I'll scrible something up for you over the weekend. But the principle is that whenever the winch is operated it drops out the split charge. This saves having to run heavy gauge cable from front to rear and having mahoosive relay/contactor's.

Even though the battery appears to be a sealed type there will still be a vent somewhere. Hydrogen gas is pretty explosive and right next to a tank full of LPG......... I would definitely arrange for some form of ventilation. As for the relay, for charging purposes ~30A should be fine. BUT you...

It may be the steering wheel damper/vibration weight, quite common for those to come adrift.

If you are able too, remove the whole arb bar from the vehicle. Then work on it in a vice.....

So,... do you end up with a hydraulically operated handbrake with adjustable front rear bias?

IIRC the gate/bracket sits on two turrets machined on the transfer box casting and the bolts only serve to hold it in place rather than locate it. Mine was awkward to remove too, so rather than perform a task more suited to a gynecologist I opted to attack it from above.

S = Sport; moves the gear change points further up. Centre position = Normal Operation. * = Ice/Snow; Vehicle moves off from rest in 2nd to reduce tendency to wheel spin.

Try these.... http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=256262&postcount=1 http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=284512&postcount=1

I had the same problem on the drivers door, hinge pins slightly worn so door was <~5mm low at the striking point on the pillar, and of course, finally the lock stay would lift it into position. I adjusted the door hinges on mine. You will need to remove the plastic liner inside the front wing...