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if one fob works fine, leave it (on some cars, if one fob goes you have to reprogram the total number you have, but not on these cars) Re programming will only affect the plipper, so it will unlock the doors, that's it. The immobiliser is separate, so if the key itself works, great, just fix...

they do run with it disconnected, just on ECU default settings which of course aren't great....

I think it depends Rick, my old 97 had two plugs, I believe the newer models 2000 onwards are one plug...

is it worth borrowing a pedal for a week for diagnosis? I had similar issue years ago on my MAv, got a new pedal from MakeItFit and that fixed it. the electricals on that pedal are in a sealed unit, so I can only assume some sort of electrical degradation inside.

sorry mate, not as yet. Ive been waiting for some better weather but I had my other halfs Saxo in for MOT recently so had a few jobs to do on that instead. Ill re post here once I find out what is what!:thumbs

double check your car doesn't have a limiter. Mine does, I simply go into the console menu and select the limiter and pre-set limit. it wont let me drive faster than that setting.

ah bugger, youre in France?! :(

yup looks good for the money!

get that CKP sensor out and clean it. Maybe even test it.

I'm suspecting the CPS, its so common on older vehicles now. First port of call is clean it, that may improve things but it may be failing. I know this may be way off, but certainly worth investigating as its reasonably easy to get to if its at the front or back of the engine.

indeed. if the cps is faulty, then during running when the engine is hot, the car will run erratic and stall. This is because the CPS is just a magnet and the heat from the engine affects the effectiveness of that magnet. So it can be on its way out, and cause stalling, and when it does run, the...

did you replace with a new ignition switch? dos it ever cut out when cold? when does it cut out, randomly when driving along a normal straight road, or often when coming up to a junction... when it cuts out, is the engine warm/hot? have you checked the earth strap under the coolant bottle...

that temp sensor in the hose....that's not right, I'm not 100% on that as you have the none intercooled engine, but ive not seen that before... is the viscous constantly roaring? or does it roar from cold /start then simmer down as Rustic says, after a few hundred yards? have you tested your...

much appreciated - I love a good project!

nice one, ive ordered the part you mentioned, cant wait to put it all together I'm right taken with this idea.:bow

sweet, ill take it! PM me when you want paying and how much etc and ill send you my details thanks

couldn't it still be the pump? that rotates the viscous, so maybe the viscous is at fault? just throwing ideas around, sounds like the viscous is cooling the engine too much...

GENIUS!!! absolute genius, can I borrow that idea? I love it!"!:thumbs

unfortunately first port of call is, of course, thermostat. Id be going for the higher temp ones, I think 98 degree. BUt there may also be some other issue such as water pump perhaps but if you have flushed the system, fitted new thermostat etc then id expect it to get to about half way in...

looks about right to me - the issue is the lens/sensor on the dashcam. It is recording at the correct resolution, via a lens that isn't as clear as you might expect. Keep it on 60Hz as I found it refreshed much quicker and therefore picked up number plates better. Is the lens at the front...