zexel injectors

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Update on my test, my daily drive has had the injector sensor disconnected since my last post, but today after my fish meal at the chippy would not start, I tried it three times making sure I had the correct key, and on the 3rd try it fired, when I got home, popped the bonnet to discover the injector plug was still disconnected, so guess that was the reason for the none start issue, I thought I had reconnected it but clearly not, dementia must be setting in, Rick

Ummmmm.
Considering it dosent make any difference with reference to it running I might unplug mine and see what happens over a few days. I don't have the money to buy parts as of yet so plenty of time for testing options.

Thanks again for trying it out.
:thumb2
 
Injectors tested today .... all ok.

Have given them a clean refitted and driven home. not sure if its wishful thinking but the misfire seems to have almost gone. it's ever so slight.

It's pulling away quite well once the turbo has kicked in but seems dead up to 1500 rpm ish.

when its Idling you can hear what i can only describe as a buzz coming from the injection pump. the same sound that you get from a faulty relay.

Just another thought is there a neutral switch on this that could be playing up?
2.7 tdi manual.
 
I can confirm that the manual box does have a neutral switch, do not know which one it is but with my code reader plugged in it tells me if in neutral or not, Rick
 
I can confirm that the manual box does have a neutral switch, do not know which one it is but with my code reader plugged in it tells me if in neutral or not, Rick

Thanks Rick.

I have been thinking about the needle lift wiring too even tho there are two wires in the plug there is only one going into the injector.. So I am going to see if it's sending a signal down and it earth's through the injector.
 
The ECU will use the neutral switch to determine if fuel cut off is possible on over run.
If in neutral, the engine will be set to idle when coasting or if in gear the fuel injection quantity will be set to zero.
 
Thanks Rick.

I have been thinking about the needle lift wiring too even tho there are two wires in the plug there is only one going into the injector.. So I am going to see if it's sending a signal down and it earth's through the injector.
The only reliable way to check the needle lift signal will be with an oscilloscope.
 
Injectors tested today .... all ok.

It's pulling away quite well once the turbo has kicked in but seems dead up to 1500 rpm ish.

This is symptomatic of insufficient fuelling at sub 2000 rpm, frequently caused by poor MAF sensitivity or an air leak somewhere in the inlet tract.
When the turbo finally spools up the airflow is then sufficient for the MAF to "see" some airflow and the fuelling is accordingly increased, then all of a sudden, boom and you are away...
 
As Ray sas you cannot test the zexel injector unlike the Bosch which has 100 ohms resistance the Zexel has no resistance, it does have two wires, it is coax cable and unlike the Bosch the crystal and clip that it is fixed to can be removed from the injector and be replace if you can find one, Rick
 
The Maf on the Zexel can be cleaned, worth doing, you will see instantly if it is bad you will see black on the intake side of the wire, just clean it off gently with alcohol and a cotton bud, Rick
 
Thanks all. I have cleaned and even changed the maf with a pattern part unit, but that was way before I freed off the turbo actuator linkage and stripped and cleaned out the inlet manifold (egr is also blanked off).

I do have the original maf fitted as when I swapped it it didn't make any difference to the fault and thought it better to keep the original but I will revisit that.

It seem odd that the misfire has improved since I removed the injectors and had them tested.

I have ran it a hour down the M5 today. As said at low rpm upto 1500 it's sluggish, above you can at times just feel the slight misfire. If I floor it I can get little to know response and another time it runs sweet as a nut and if you floor it it pulls away above 2000 rpm.
I will have to recheck the intercooler and inlet but it's also why I asked about the neutral switch.

Hope you get where I am coming from.

Thanks again for all your input it doing my head in but I will win.
 
Thanks all. I have cleaned and even changed the maf with a pattern part unit, but that was way before I freed off the turbo actuator linkage and stripped and cleaned out the inlet manifold (egr is also blanked off).

I do have the original maf fitted as when I swapped it it didn't make any difference to the fault and thought it better to keep the original but I will revisit that.

It seem odd that the misfire has improved since I removed the injectors and had them tested.

I have ran it a hour down the M5 today. As said at low rpm upto 1500 it's sluggish, above you can at times just feel the slight misfire. If I floor it I can get little to know response and another time it runs sweet as a nut and if you floor it it pulls away above 2000 rpm.
I will have to recheck the intercooler and inlet but it's also why I asked about the neutral switch.

Hope you get where I am coming from.

Thanks again for all your input it doing my head in but I will win.

My Maverick went like this just before I scrapped it due to it being written off, never got round to diagnosing it but my symptoms were identical to yours.
 
My Maverick went like this just before I scrapped it due to it being written off, never got round to diagnosing it but my symptoms were identical to yours.

This trucks in realy good nick body wise so worth spending some time and money on. Just hope I can find the problem.
 
Not sure that there is actually :nenau

I may have a spare, let me check my odds and sods in the garage :thumb2

It's ok I have found me problem. It was the cam sensor. I bought a proper one from partsouq. Running like a dream. The retro fit wasn't either picking up the signal at the right time or wasn't send right. So in a sense the timing was slightly out. :thumbs thanks all for your input. :thumbs
 
Is there any reading i can check using a multi-meter with regards to the maf sensor ?

Yes there is, you just need a couple of sewing needles or pins into the correct wires to the maf and read the voltage at different revs, I have the details someplace, but hardly relevant now as you have sorted it, Rick
 
Yes there is, you just need a couple of sewing needles or pins into the correct wires to the maf and read the voltage at different revs, I have the details someplace, but hardly relevant now as you have sorted it, Rick

Ah nice one Rick, does the same procedure work for the Bosch MAF too? Obviously I would expect the readings to be different :thumb2
 
Ah nice one Rick, does the same procedure work for the Bosch MAF too? Obviously I would expect the readings to be different :thumb2

Yes works for Bosch too but as you say readings are different, from memory the Bosch is about 1 volt higher, that was why when I tested the first MAF amp from Ray the output was way too high for the Hitachi on mine, Rick
 
:doh EML came on today limp mode:banghead::banghead:. Rev it up it go's out. Got home flash code's 34 and 43 throttle sensor and needle lift. I don't like the feel of the throttle (bit sticky) so am going to go for the sensor first. Anyone have a part number?
 
:doh EML came on today limp mode:banghead::banghead:. Rev it up it go's out. Got home flash code's 34 and 43 throttle sensor and needle lift. I don't like the feel of the throttle (bit sticky) so am going to go for the sensor first. Anyone have a part number?

You will have to purchase a complete injector, do not think any body will have the sensor on it's own, I have a good used Zexel one but as it is my only spare am reluctant to part with it, see how you get with breakers etc, Rick
 

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