Wing removal

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schultz

Active member
Joined
Jul 12, 2007
Messages
41
My screen washer hasn't been working for a while so I got a replacement from a scrap yard.
I tried to remove my wing today to do a swap, but having removed all visible bolts etc the wing still remains firmly attached at the back end at the bottom corner of the windscreen , and somewhere at the front. I have removed all the wheelarch trim fasteners, all visible bolts along the top, a bolt from above the top door hinge and one near the bottom hinge. Two bolts at the very bottom which attach the wing to the sill - both snapped. At the front bottom I took out a bolt that went vertical into a plate of some sort, and one that went in horizontal - both of them behind the plastic liner and hard to get to. There appeared to be two push in plastic fasteners for the bumper wrap round which I have pulled out. Any suggestions as to what else might need undoing ? Like I said, top back and front end remove to budge. Thanks for any advice
 
I think there's one bolt right at the back top edge near the w/screen. It's under the rubber trim I think. Is your truck the square head lights or round?
There's one bolt that goes sideways near the headlight or it may be a big push in thingy.
 
Hope you are not taking the wing of to do the washer bottle? Rick
 
I think there's one bolt right at the back top edge near the w/screen. It's under the rubber trim I think. Is your truck the square head lights or round?
There's one bolt that goes sideways near the headlight or it may be a big push in thingy.

It's round headlight Terrano 2. I have taken the one out under the bit of rubber, but still no movement. With regards other responses, how do you do it without removing the wing. It's all a bit tight under there
 
part remove the plastic trim under the wing, remove the bolts holding washer bottle (remove battery and fuse unit) and it drops out, Rick
 
part remove the plastic trim under the wing, remove the bolts holding washer bottle (remove battery and fuse unit) and it drops out, Rick

If you have to disconnect the battery, have you got the radio code, and sometimes the NATS alarm system has to be reset. The engine ECU will automatically reset after a few miles.

OR You could supply the 12 volts from another battery ( NOT a battery Charger) via a live 12 volt socket, ( Fit say a 10amp fuse in the line .... just in case)
BUT when you remove the positive connector on the battery, place it in an insulated bag, like a jiffy bag, and don't let it touch the bodywork...:eek:
Tie it out of the way.

After you have done the job and reconnected the battery, remove the second battery and you shouldn't have lost any memory .......:thumb2

I did this on my Mav when I changed the battery last year.

Saves time wondering..... :confused:

Best regards, Rustic
 
If you have to disconnect the battery, have you got the radio code, and sometimes the NATS alarm system has to be reset. The engine ECU will automatically reset after a few miles.

OR You could supply the 12 volts from another battery ( NOT a battery Charger) via a live 12 volt socket, ( Fit say a 10amp fuse in the line .... just in case)
BUT when you remove the positive connector on the battery, place it in an insulated bag, like a jiffy bag, and don't let it touch the bodywork...:eek:
Tie it out of the way.

After you have done the job and reconnected the battery, remove the second battery and you shouldn't have lost any memory .......:thumb2

I did this on my Mav when I changed the battery last year.

Saves time wondering..... :confused:

Best regards, Rustic

Can you suggest a good place to connect a second battery?
 
Can you suggest a good place to connect a second battery?

If you have a live 12 volt socket in the boot area, without the ignition being on. Then you could make up a plug and fit the battery in the boot.

Some tow bar sockets ie the "S" socket are live all the time, for a supply to the caravan.


It should also be possible to have the ignition switch on to the first click, ie accessory only and then feed via the cig socket in the car.

Make sure radio, interior light, etc are switched off first.
Make sure you fit a 10 amp fuse on the new battery, if someone selects ignition or start, or opens an electric window then the fuse will blow protecting your vehicle wiring.


You could find a live terminal in the fuse box that is live when the ignition is off, or failing that you could fit a croc clip to the positive terminals that you are removing on the battery connector, but there is a great risk here that the croc clip could come off then you are back to square 1.

Black to black, red to red watch the polarity.

Hope this helps.
Best regards, Rustic
 
Thanks for all replies. I didn't have problems with the nats, and the radio is a fascia removal type, so no code. I got the job done eventually. The rear top of the wing was held firm by a small bit of sealant and prised up with a screwdriver. I never found the front fastener on the wing , somewhere near the headlight, but have been told it's a bumper off job to get at that. I removed the arch liner, horrible plastic crossthread fasteners all rounded, so had to cut or prise them off. The washer bottle would have dropped out at that, but the reservoir front and back bolts through the inner wing were rusted up and this caused the bolt just to turn in its plastic mounting on the reservoir. So I had to swing the wing gently out from the back end so that I could lever the reservoir so that the two offending fasteners came out of their plastic mountings. This doesn't cause any leaks by the way. It all went back together fine, but I only attached the reservoir by the three bolts which hold the filler section to the inner wing and main reservoir - seems firm enough to me. It works now anyway. Thanks for all the advice.
 

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