Whew - its warm inside!

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swaggy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2012
Messages
76
This may be a silly question but has anybody heard of, or have a solution, to this issue?

My T2, which I have owned for 6 months, has always been quite toasty inside once the engine has warmed up. The diesel lump obviously generates a lot of heat which is great in the winter but now its warmer its getting uncomfortable. There seems to be warm air coming out of all the vents when driving even though the temp control is on cold and the fan is off. Even the 2 centre vents which are supposed to give outside air blow warm. Its noisy on the motorway as I have to have the windows open a bit and the aircon is not working at the moment as I think it needs regassing.

The engine warms up normally and it is not overheating or anything like that. Surely I don't have to have the a/c on all the time, or the windows open, when driving to overcome heat from the engine? Do I have a problem somewhere? :nenau
 
Ye you have a problem
Take your vest off its summmmer
Jeez lifes too short wind your winfow down
 
This may be a silly question but has anybody heard of, or have a solution, to this issue?

My T2, which I have owned for 6 months, has always been quite toasty inside once the engine has warmed up. The diesel lump obviously generates a lot of heat which is great in the winter but now its warmer its getting uncomfortable. There seems to be warm air coming out of all the vents when driving even though the temp control is on cold and the fan is off. Even the 2 centre vents which are supposed to give outside air blow warm. Its noisy on the motorway as I have to have the windows open a bit and the aircon is not working at the moment as I think it needs regassing.

The engine warms up normally and it is not overheating or anything like that. Surely I don't have to have the a/c on all the time, or the windows open, when driving to overcome heat from the engine? Do I have a problem somewhere? :nenau

If you don't have the fan on, the air in the ducts will warm up, put the fan on and it will suck air in faster and cooler. I have owned 2 Terranos and driven them both in France when the weather is hot, I don't like AC on all the time, so just leave the fan on and it stays comfy, I also have the sunroof on tilt.
 
Believe me, when the fan is on it just blows hot air more. I've tried that - doesn't work.
Don't have a sunroof either so thats not an option.
Its as if the temp control does not fully shut off the water thru the heater matrix. But why warm air thru the centre vents as well?
If this is normal then I'll just have to live with it but its bl***dy annoying.
 
What firebobby said, plus check that all the vanes on your face-level vents are intact they are very fragile and can be broken by pushing, say, a pen into the vent. If any are broken it means they will not close.

My T2 is in Spain and with a combination of sunroof tilted, closed vents and heater set to coldest position it's comfortable, even up to 40+ degrees.
 
Its as if the temp control does not fully shut off the water thru the heater matrix. But why warm air thru the centre vents as well?
If this is normal then I'll just have to live with it but its bl***dy annoying.
From memory I don't believe the heater temp control affects the water flow at all.
It is an air blend heater that diverts the air flow through the heater matrix by the use of vanes/flaps, could be the linkage to one of these has come adrift?
It's all in the the HA section of the R20 manual, page HA-63 looks relevant.
 
you could try a lower temp thermostat too , that might work , but then I know nuffin , so ignore me lol
 
The hot/cold lever moves the valve on the water way and also shuts the air flap to the matrix on the aperture on the left, so I guess that the cable is not connected, as per next pic, Rick
 

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The vents at the top are the centre dash ones to give an idea of where it is, the cable should connect to the small lever in the middle of the pic with the outer clipped just above it, Rick
 

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My arm pops off on the heater too

Remove globve box an you can the see the top of the heater.

No download. ,BUT look at the one for air con filter for removing the globve box
 
Started up this morning and lovely cool air from the centre vents. After driving only 3 miles it was warm. Looks like a trip behind the dash is on the cards. Thanks to all.
 
If your not sure how things fit just take pics as you go.

Just re asemble it the reverce order

Simples
 
heater

This may be a silly question but has anybody heard of, or have a solution, to this issue?

My T2, which I have owned for 6 months, has always been quite toasty inside once the engine has warmed up. The diesel lump obviously generates a lot of heat which is great in the winter but now its warmer its getting uncomfortable. There seems to be warm air coming out of all the vents when driving even though the temp control is on cold and the fan is off. Even the 2 centre vents which are supposed to give outside air blow warm. Its noisy on the motorway as I have to have the windows open a bit and the aircon is not working at the moment as I think it needs regassing.

The engine warms up normally and it is not overheating or anything like that. Surely I don't have to have the a/c on all the time, or the windows open, when driving to overcome heat from the engine? Do I have a problem somewhere? :nenau

i would be interested to know how you go on i have exactly the same problem with my t2 it does not seem to matter if diail is on hot or cold just still blows hot air i am worried that i will get arrested for just wearing SPEEDOS
 
Mostly I have been trying to figure out what is happening using Solarman's pictures above, the R20 manual (HA section), and the truck itself. I have been limited by the fact that the truck is used every day and so I can't pull the dash out. But I now know exactly what the problem is.

The heater temperature control, which is a knob, actuates a small toothed arm which pulls/pushes a cable which operates the small lever in the middle of Solarman's second picture. If you remove the glove box you can see the arm on the heater box working as the knob is rotated. I am assuming this arm rotates both the air flap in the heater box and the water cock on the rear of the box next to the firewall which you can't see in situ. (see air flow diagrams on HA section Page 8). The higher the temperature setting the more the air flap is opened and the more water thru the matrix.

The problem is that the temp knob does not fully close the lever on the heater box. When the knob is at minimum the lever is still open about 25% - hence warm air. As a temporary test I tied the lever in the fully closed position (down). This now cuts off the hot air and allows the a/c to work properly, which I had regassed.

To fix this it either needs an adjustment or a spring to pull it down to the fully closed position when the knob is at minimum. Its a b**** to get at though without removing the centre console. Hope this helps. :thumbs
 
looks to me like you have an obstruction on the air flow flap, think you will need to remove the blower and maybe the air con evaporator to get at this, lots of work, Rick
 
Don't think the flap is obstructed as I've closed it manually. I just tied it closed to stop it vibrating open again as I drive. The air has been fine today, even cool air from the window vents which I have NEVER had before. It seems to be something like slack in the cable or mechanism as I can move the knob about a 1/4 turn before the lever even starts to move.

I will need to get at the whole mechanism (knob/cable/lever) to get a final solution but this is absolutely the cause of the hot air problem.

Solarman, I couldn't have found it without your pics, thanks a lot. :bow
 
Don't think the flap is obstructed as I've closed it manually. I just tied it closed to stop it vibrating open again as I drive. The air has been fine today, even cool air from the window vents which I have NEVER had before. It seems to be something like slack in the cable or mechanism as I can move the knob about a 1/4 turn before the lever even starts to move.

I will need to get at the whole mechanism (knob/cable/lever) to get a final solution but this is absolutely the cause of the hot air problem.

Solarman, I couldn't have found it without your pics, thanks a lot. :bow

glad to have helped, Rick
 

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