where does hazard button go?

[AlexD333]

So basically when I go devon next weekend my friend will be more than happy to install new speakers etc. I want a new head unit but if I remove the old it looks v tricky as the haz button is wired into the head unit.

Does anyone have a cheap fix for this as it looks like the official adapter is well over 150 quid... :doh

 

[R20Dave]

Scrapyard! The correct hazard button used for the conversion is the one fitted to the 96-2000 primera make a plate and find a way of fitting it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AlexD333]

Thanks dave. Will the indicators work without the haz switch?

 

[exosteve]

behind the head is three connector blocks.
one for the head unit ,one for the multi changer if you have one and one for the hazard switch.

just make your self a template to fit in the existing hole and use any cheapo switch

I cant find any pics at the mo but its simple to do.

just disconnect one block at a time to identify the hazard wires:thumbs

 

[exosteve]

I had no ply or mdf or anything so I used one of our small plastic chopping boards and covered it with the leather from the the fold down rear seat.which I binned

 

[AlexD333]

Thanks guys, this is exactly what I needed and the description should have cleared things up entirely. We were worried that the has was wired directly into the head unit (not on a single block) now I should be all good! Thanks :thumb2
ps We expected the hazard switch to have a few wires but after reading http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18095&highlight=stereo realise a rocker switch will suffice

 

[zippy656]

This info is outside ur £10 , please.send me.cash

 

[AlexD333]

This info is outside ur £10 , please.send me.cash

Whats the postage address :lol cheque or cash?

 

[AlexD333]

Do the speaker covers come off? Or is it the whole door card? :nenau

There seems to be some flex on the speaker covers.

 

[elty001]

I had no ply or mdf or anything so I used one of our small plastic chopping boards and covered it with the leather from the the fold down rear seat.which I binned

Did yours got through mot ok with that switch?
I bought a rocker switch with the hazard triangle on it as I got told it had to be identified as the hazards or it would fail.
Still only cost a couple of quid so no biggie.

 

[AlexD333]

Did yours got through mot ok with that switch?
I bought a rocker switch with the hazard triangle on it as I got told it had to be identified as the hazards or it would fail.
Still only cost a couple of quid so no biggie.

I have been told this is not true. As long as there is indication of the hazards being on - i e indicators. Also my switch does not illuminate :thumb2

 

[Sweety]

Do the speaker covers come off? Or is it the whole door card? :nenau

There seems to be some flex on the speaker covers.

Nope it's a door panel off job as the speaker cover screws/clips are on the other side of the panel:augie what size & shape of speakers are you planing of fitting as you will prob need some custom baffles making

 

[AlexD333]

Nope it's a door panel off job as the speaker cover screws/clips are on the other side of the panel:augie what size & shape of speakers are you planing of fitting as you will prob need some custom baffles making

I haven't a clue yet. I am going down to devon next weekend and seeing my mate Clive (audio guru as i call him) :lol

I still have my old amp and sub from my old mr2, I think they are gonna see life again too! We were talking earlier about gauge 0 wiring? :nenau

Let me snap a pic of my sub n amp

 

[AlexD333]

Ok my old sub n amp

 

[AlexD333]

10" kicker with guard

 

[AlexD333]

1100 watt amp, (thanks Clive )

 

[Sweety]

The 10" Kicker subs are nice:thumb2 you might get away with 4 gauge power earth wire, now to get it through the bulkhead there are 2 grommets by the main wiring harness & bring it down & along under the sill covers on the O/S into the boot & RCA lead/s down the N/S or center of the motor:thumbs standard speakers are 7x5" but you can get 6-6.5" if you make up some MDF baffles

 

[AlexD333]

The 10" Kicker subs are nice:thumb2 you might get away with 4 gauge power earth wire, now to get it through the bulkhead there are 2 grommets by the main wiring harness & bring it down & along under the sill covers on the O/S into the boot & RCA lead/s down the N/S or center of the motor:thumbs standard speakers are 7x5" but you can get 6-6.5" if you make up some MDF baffles

Cheers dude that's really handy :thumb2 if you have any more info or pics please chuck em my way.

I'm really looking forward to an awesome sound system again. Dunno what head unit Clive will have kicking about (or speakers for that matter) but I'll be sure to post up plenty of pics during installation.

Whilst we are doing this i want to bulk everything out, minimising buzz and vibration, if there are any obvious things to stick down or bulk out id love to know too :thumb2

 

[Sweety]

TBH it all depends on how far you want to take it really:augie but heres a run down of my system at the min, using a Kenwood KDC-BT92SD headunit which has the option to change the frequencies the front, rear speakers plus the sub it also has time alignment & a tone of other toys plus 4V RCA outputs, front speakers are 6.5" JBL 2 ways with the standard nissan tweeters, rear has 5.25" JBL 2 ways, 1 Kicker 250.2 amp in the boot bridged to 1 channel powering a JBL GT3 10" sub in sealed enclosure When I get time i'll be building a 40L ported enclosure for the sub as it will sound better & the front speakers will be getting changed for some component ones & the fronts will end up in the back. If you need I can send you a link on how to get your amp up using a multimeter so you don't process distorted sound which won't do the amp much good & will shorted the life of the sub. If you've got a sealed enclosure but find there isn't enough bass just send me the model number of the sub & i'll get the spec's for a ported enclosure for you & send you a link so you can design an enclosure of the right size & to fit where/how you want it in the boot

I've not added any sound deadening yet due to a lack of funds but it does make a big difference but as a stop gap I taped some 6mm close cell foam under lay into the gaps in the inner door skin & noticed an improvement in the sound & a slight reduction in road noise

 

[Sweety]

Here's a pic of the crappy factory speaker compared to the JBL I replaced it with in the front door take notice of the magnet size difference bigger the magnet the more power the speaker can handle:thumb2