wheel bearing/s

[vince]

so im pretty sure my off side wheel bearing is shagged, squeeling when hot, but iv done some digging on the forum only to find theres 3 of the buggers! so.... do i just change the outer one?
or all 3? do i need any special tools?
could it be something else? eg freewheeling hubs? ive got autos on mine. any help or tips wil be greatly appreciated,
thanks guys and gals, vince

 

[Banshee]

so im pretty sure my off side wheel bearing is shagged, squeeling when hot, but iv done some digging on the forum only to find theres 3 of the buggers! so.... do i just change the outer one?
or all 3? do i need any special tools?
could it be something else? eg freewheeling hubs? ive got autos on mine. any help or tips wil be greatly appreciated,
thanks guys and gals, vince

I attempted this fix and I'd like to thinkI'm quite mechanically competent and that I can pick things up quite quickly and I swapped my drivers side front one and i messed it up so bad that it set on fire at the sliproad traffic lights lmao :doh

 

[vince]

ooo think il wait to see if i get any tips before i delve in then. i think its a lockring to tighten the outer bearing but no idea how youd torque this up?

 

[solarman216]

what's this about 3 bearings, they are taper roller one set each end of the hub, no probs, Rick

 

[rustic]

ooo think il wait to see if i get any tips before i delve in then. i think its a lockring to tighten the outer bearing but no idea how youd torque this up?

Plenty of information in the manual, the procedure uses a small spring balance to measure the pre-load from the bearings, when the brake pads are removed or backed off.
Simples...

Other members just nip the lock ring just enough to remove any play.

 

[vince]

so iv stripped ,cleaned and adjusted the bearing.... but the driveshaft still has a LOT of play in it, shouldnt the bearing stop this? i thought it would run on the inner bearing race??? also iv bought a dvd manual and it turns out part of my freewheeling hub was in inside out!

 

[Fez_uk]

Make sure you rock it from top to bottom to rule out steering play.

Also make sure the top and lower ball joints are not causing this play.

 

[vince]

with the wheel and the autohub off i can jiggle the driveshaft up and down with my fingers, maybe 4mm. is this normal?

 

[Fez_uk]

I believe so, The wheel runs on bearings that play no part in the driveshaft. Someone will have to confirm this?

Also make sure you have now now done your bearings up too tight if you have been checking that for bearing play.

 

[vince]

i put the adjuster ring on finger tight then just tightened it until it aligned with the outer ring holes, if anything itl be too loose, but im thinking my squeal may have been my wrongly built auto hubs?

 

[Fez_uk]

I took the hub off etc to get to the adjuster. Then put the wheel back on, Then adjusted it so there's a tiny bit of play.

Worth checking how much play you have, otherwise you could have it too tight.

 

[rustic]

The drive shaft might have lost the clip that goes on to the end of the shaft.
There is a recess in the end of the shaft, with a snap ring on. These are nissan parts, available in several thicknesses. See manual.
If not fitted, or broken, then there will be excess play in the shaft as it goes into the hub.

Some pratt :doh has obviously been in there, that doesn't know how the bits go back, and if whilst changing say the front brake disks, you happen to push back the drive shaft, its a pig to push back in with light pressure.
You can't get the snap ring on unless it is fully engaged.:doh

With a strong hand and a wobble around, you can push in the drive shaft, but be prepared for some effort. 3 shredded wheat might be the order of the day:lol

I would think that this is the problem.:thumb2
Check the shaft for wear, there may also be some damage to the seal.

There is no oil in the hub, like LRs but things are greased up, and you should really strip and clean the bearings as grit and water could have got in.

good luck, best regards,

Rustic

 

[vince]

i took some pics whilst i was doing it but dont know how to upload them. i put on the bearing adjuster/ then the bit that it screws to/ then the cup thing / then the copper coloured part with two tangs on/ then the shim with internal splines/ then the snapring. there is a groove further down the drive shaft but the autohub would cover this up. have i missed one off? i think il have to readjust it again anyway as it groaned a bit when i exited a miniroundabout a little speedy today. think with all the previouse bodges il just buy new bearings

 

[solarman216]

Well I stand corrected there are indeed three bearings in the hub but only two are wheel bearings the other is a needle roller for the CVJ end of the drive shaft, the outer end is supported by the auto locking hub, and yes with the hub off the end of the shaft is free to lift up and down by 4mm or so and is normal, I do not know the purpose of the outer groove on the shaft other than to make it harder to get the snap ring on, pic for clarity, Rick

 

[vince]

phew thanks rick thats a big help, the pics great for my clarity too:clap. do you know how tight the outer bearing should be? i did it up finger tight then upto the next lineup screw hole. if i do it upto the next lineup hole surely it will be too tight?

 

[solarman216]

most taper races are designed to have a small pre load, I run mine at finger tight plus to the next hole the two screws line up with, whatever there should be no play, Rick

 

[vince]

hmmm looks like new bearing time then. they come as a kit so is it worth me changing both at the same time or are they a bugger to do? i dont have access to a press anymore

 

[solarman216]

hmmm looks like new bearing time then. they come as a kit so is it worth me changing both at the same time or are they a bugger to do? i dont have access to a press anymore

Why new bearings, are they rough/noisy, remove the brake calliper and spin the hub to check, Rick

 

[vince]

iv had another look today, luckily my spare wheel is a steely so used that to get my adjustment right as my alloys hid everything. iv tightened the bearing adjuster by another 90 degrees or so and its ok now thanks for the help people. oh i also changed my front brake pads too, looks like only the inner pads were changed last time!!

 

[rustic]

iv had another look today, luckily my spare wheel is a steely so used that to get my adjustment right as my alloys hid everything. iv tightened the bearing adjuster by another 90 degrees or so and its ok now thanks for the help people. oh i also changed my front brake pads too, looks like only the inner pads were changed last time!!

Check the slide pins in the callipers, if they are seized, then one set of pads will wear more quickly than the other.

best regards,
Rustic