what's your mileage?

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My little PETroll got filled to the brim today at Tesco £80, but with 20p /L off I saved nearly £15.
so A full tank cost about £65-70 and I have reset the Trip counter:thumb2:nenau

Last time I brimmed it and went to the lakes it averaged about 12mpg:augie

Running 37"x 12.5" 17"'s with a heavy right foot cos it sounds nice :thumbs

Oh and a nice power slide out of Tesco with a bit of opposite lock for good measure.

High speed fun at 10mph:rolleyes:
 
Alex's MPG can be improved, if he actually drives it whilst the engine is running, rather than fault finding, bonnet up, revving it, messing around, adjusting this then that.
Running the engine, idling, will consume loads if fuel, and if the fuel isn't being burnt efficiently... then even more.:eek:

Modern cars tend to remove all excess weight, no spare wheel, so no jack, no wheel brace either. They also have stop start technology, regenerative braking, so the battery is charged when braking.
Manufacturers are also lowering cars, and using thinner wheels and tyres to reduce rolling resistance and improve air flow.
They are now streamlining the underside of the cars with plastic under liners.

Even cross roof bars can add 10% to consumption.

So what effect willl...
raising the vehicle have?
removing contoured bumpers and replacing with irregular steel work
fitting a roof bar with lamps which will increase drag
adding a snorkel, increases some drag around the screen
carrying 50-100kg of recovery equipment in the boot, adds weight
fitting larger and wider tyres can increase rolling resistance
using fixed hubs, so front axle rotating, even though not in four wheel drive

A few % here, a few% there, so you can quickly see a predicted manufacturers mpg of 30 mpg, quickly drops to 22-25 mpg.
Then, there is a heavy right foot, and whether you are predicting traffic flows.
If you are on your brakes all the time, then that must waste fuel, better to predict, increase the distance between you and the car in front, and watch the car in front of the car in front, etc..not the brake lights of the car in front of you.
 
rustic said:
Alex's MPG can be improved, if he actually drives it whilst the engine is running, rather than fault finding, bonnet up, revving it, messing around, adjusting this then that.
Running the engine, idling, will consume loads if fuel, and if the fuel isn't being burnt efficiently... then even more.:eek:

Modern cars tend to remove all excess weight, no spare wheel, so no jack, no wheel brace either. They also have stop start technology, regenerative braking, so the battery is charged when braking.
Manufacturers are also lowering cars, and using thinner wheels and tyres to reduce rolling resistance and improve air flow.
They are now streamlining the underside of the cars with plastic under liners.

Even cross roof bars can add 10% to consumption.

So what effect willl...
raising the vehicle have?
removing contoured bumpers and replacing with irregular steel work
fitting a roof bar with lamps which will increase drag
adding a snorkel, increases some drag around the screen
carrying 50-100kg of recovery equipment in the boot, adds weight
fitting larger and wider tyres can increase rolling resistance
using fixed hubs, so front axle rotating, even though not in four wheel drive

A few % here, a few% there, so you can quickly see a predicted manufacturers mpg of 30 mpg, quickly drops to 22-25 mpg.
Then, there is a heavy right foot, and whether you are predicting traffic flows.
If you are on your brakes all the time, then that must waste fuel, better to predict, increase the distance between you and the car in front, and watch the car in front of the car in front, etc..not the brake lights of the car in front of you.
Click to expand...

Yup, all of these are applicable to my motor, and also with it running rough on cold thick veg oil it's no wonder the mpg was terrible, it would be nice to get a 50/50 reading and do a run to test sensible mpg :thumb2
 
Your correct in what your saying Rustic:thumbs I lost a little bit of MPG when I added my roof rack & spotlights on my old SWB but it was worth it to me as I could see where I was going in the dark & the extra lights saved me from clipping a few sheep that had wandered into the road & deer over 3 years:thumb2 You mention driving styles something both my Grandad & mother both said to me is you should be able to drive from A to B without using your brakes, yes I know there is other traffic on the road but i've tried this a few times late at night when the roads are quiet or empty & yes it's easy to do:D
 
Nice to see the varying mileages :)
26mpg seems to be OK, given the once-a-week drive to work on Europe's most congested roads...
 
fermer_giles said:
Hi jim my one is 1996 model non intercooler model i get the mpg because i drive like a granny lol. Cant afford to have a heavy right foot. If i use tesco fuel mpg more like 30 mpg on a good day.
Click to expand...

Well done Fermer, wish I could do that one both mine. Mind you it doesn't help living in the pennines with all those hills around every corner.
 
m.p.g. returns

My old Nissan Terrano r3mR 2.7 Diesel auto averaged 21.63 mpg overall based on annual figures over 5 years. Best ever recorded mpg on a run to France was 31.80 mpg but it was usually around the 28 mpg on the booze run.

My present Hyundai 2.7 Petrol Auto has averaged 20.5 mpg this year with 28.2 mpg on the France trips. As petrol is cheaper than Diesel they are pretty much the same on fuel costs.

The wife much prefers the Nissan as it was a bit higher up and larger capacity in the rear.
I like the smooth quiet V6 Hyundai Petrol engine and its pretty sharp off the mark at the lights etc. If I could have found another newer r3mR with low mileage at a sensible price I would have.

Already wondering what we will have next albeit a few years away yet as Hyundai is only in year 2 of ownership. Barring a major mechanical failure we will run it for 5 years before we change. I still fancy a Jeep with the 3.0 litre MB engine.
 
I run on standard tyres a 3.0ltr with auto.box, no mods except K&N air filter, I like it just like it is, I do have roof bars, necessary for my work, but removed for long trips. I seem to get 26ish around the lanes and town, I sadly only do local trips mostly. I can get up to 33 on the motorway at 60 - 70 mph.
I get off piste into the forest from time to time, this does knock the fuel economy hard.
I use engine braking, simple foot of the gas when necessary, and try to stay off my brakes. Always leaving a good distance between me and vehicles in front. Having been a biker for nearly ever, I ride and drive defensively, this I believe also is the trick to trying to achieve the best fuel economy as possible, I also admit to driving like a granny !
 
3.0 Trol with the manual box, running 32" muds, a 2" lift and the winch bumper and I get around 25mpg, bit more on a nice long run - I do drive very concious of the extras though! :lol

Motorway I sit around 60mph/2700rpm
 
My '04 3.0's a daily driver, sits on standard Bridgestone HD840s, no mods & I get between 31-32 consistently. That's on a mix of roads, including dual carriageway, and some off-roading too :thumb2
 
My 07 2.7 manual on standard size 17" Goodyear Wranglers is doing 26.4 mpg. That's a mix of driving A roads B roads and some towing :nenau no worse than I expected.
 
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