What should I replace these with

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Maxtel/Wipac makes decent cheaper option large lamps, if you can't get a 24v specific set, just put 24v bulbs in them.

Avoid draining one battery for 12v stuff. You must have matched batteries kept at the same charge level or you will wreck one of them. Simply put, if you constantly discharge one battery more than the other, the good one will try to charge the lower one and always put more "strain" on one. Even if you get a bad battery you really should change both for a matched pair of the same rating and age.

Get a proper 12v dc/dc converter with a decent power rating, the one that is fitted from the factory for the stereo is known to be pretty low rated and really only just up to the job of the std stereo.

I prefer the 12v versions too, parts for the 24v can be hard to get, things like the window motors etc. Though of course you can have parts repaired by a proper auto electrical place that knows their stuff.
 
I've ordered as set :) lets see how they are when they get here :)

Just need to fin a set of covers for them as well now so I don't get cracked lenses like my current set of Hella ones
 
I have signed up to the patrol4x4.com I think they seem to be all Aussies

Yeeees well spotted :lol
Mainly true but they're a star bunch and there's a few of us pomms around to wind them up a bit :D
Do your intro and then fire away with your questions. They're brilliant mate :cool:
 
Yeeees well spotted :lol
Mainly true but they're a star bunch and there's a few of us pomms around to wind them up a bit :D
Do your intro and then fire away with your questions. They're brilliant mate :cool:

Might log on and see if anyone wants to discuss the ashes :augie
 
The previous owner told me, also when I plugged the flashing beacon in it went nuts, and on the v meter on dash it reads 26v when driving.

you need to check with a good volt meter, to be fully charged you should get 29.6 volts 26 is only 13 volts per battery barely 80% charged, Rick
 
your gauge if accurate is showing around 29 volts which is fine, Rick
 
if you are looking to run 12volt stuff you may well be better of cost wise to get a 24volt to 230 v inverter say 500 watts this will power most small items that have a 230v adaptor, sure there are losses but nothing to cry about, I regularly charge my battery drills from the car as if I plug the chargers into customers socket 9 times out of ten I leave it behind, Rick
 
Looking to fix in new auxiliary power supply for phone, radio,camping fridge etc.

If you are planning on drawing a lot of current running the fridge then the cost of a dc/dc converter could be quite high but it will be more efficient than an ac invertor because they are pretty inefficient in comparison.

There's a few things to consider here and some different options.

Have a look at your phone charger first. It will likely have some writing on it telling you the input voltages and it may very well be ok on 24volt systems.

You could also maybe buy a 24v fridge and/or stereo, they are available, but it depends on whether you already have those items in 12v and want to continue using them with 12v.

You can work out current draw simply using the rule, power in watts = voltage multiplied by current in amps.

So for example if you want to use a 120watt appliance or combination of appliances that draw 120watts, at 12volts it/they will draw 10amps. So you will need a converter rated at least 10amps. Your fridge should also have a label with the power rating on it.
 
there is a 12v head unit in there at the moment and would just like to get that working.

Fridge is a way off at the moment, but its a plan for the future, radio is most important
 
there is a 12v head unit in there at the moment and would just like to get that working.

Fridge is a way off at the moment, but its a plan for the future, radio is most important

Maybe the factory dc/dc convertor has packed up. It could be located above the jack in the nearside rear wheel arch. Get a multimeter on it and check input and output voltages. They aren't known for they're great output or longevity.
If it's ok, test the rear of the stereo for power.

If I were running a 24v motor again, I would fit a decent output 12v convertor and a small fuse box to run everything from with a couple of cig lighter sockets front and rear and output to the stereo. A nice neat fitment like that would see you through all your needs. But then I'm fussy with electrical stuff, always have been.
 
Maybe the factory dc/dc convertor has packed up. It could be located above the jack in the nearside rear wheel arch. Get a multimeter on it and check input and output voltages. They aren't known for they're great output or longevity.
If it's ok, test the rear of the stereo for power.

If I were running a 24v motor again, I would fit a decent output 12v convertor and a small fuse box to run everything from with a couple of cig lighter sockets front and rear and output to the stereo. A nice neat fitment like that would see you through all your needs. But then I'm fussy with electrical stuff, always have been.

Sounds good, what do I need?
 
OK here's a bit of info on converters.

For years, linear voltage converters were used to convert 24V D.C. to 12V D.C. But linear converters are technically quite primitive,being in effect, little more than a resistor. This method of reducing voltage has the disadvantage of being very inefficient and as a result at least 50% of the input power is wasted and given off in the form of heat. To deal with the heat a heat-sink is required, increasing the overall size of the converter and restricting its positioning.
Switched-mode converters however, work in a much more sophisticated and efficient way. At the input is a field effect transistor(a solid state switch in basic terms) which converts the input voltage into a square wave. The square wave has a 50% duty cycle (50% on, 50% off) and, when this signal is put through a rectifier with a capacitor, the output voltage is 50% of the input voltage. Because the resistance of the switch is low, power loss is reduced and efficiency is high. Maybe as much as 95% efficient at load.
Other benefits of switched-mode converters are, smaller size due to less need for heat dissipation,greater flexibility in choice of installation location,increased battery life,longer life of the converter itself,low standby current drain.
A common problem with switched-mode converters in the past has been that they create significant amounts of radio interference so you need a good quality converter that will be heavily filtered and not produce interference.

It's important to have a converter which is suitable for the use to which it is to be put. Trying to draw more power from a converter than it
is designed for will result in the failure of the converter and possible damage to the equipment being powered.
Most converters use two figures to describe their performance, 8/12amps for example. The first figure is the power which the
converter can supply continuously. The second is the power which can be supplied for a short period of time, usually a few minutes
and is called the peak power rating.
Make sure that the total power consumption of all appliances which will be used at once is within the continuous power output
capability of the converter. For example, to run a 12-volt TV which uses 48 watts of power will require a converter with a minimum
rating of 4 amps. 48 watts / 12 volts = 4 amps.
Bear in mind that some appliances - TVs and compressor fridges are good examples, require more power when they start up than they do
when they're actually running. A TV which consumes 48 watts in operation may take 100 watts or more for just a fraction of a second when it's switched on. The same applies with a compressor fridge. So when choosing a voltage converter, make sure that it has a peak power rating high enough to cope with start-up current requirements.

So find yourself a decent switched mode converter, probably around 20amp rating and a small aftermarket automotive blade type fusebox with a cover.

You should shop around for a decent price but here's a couple of examples.

http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-578-18-24v-to-12v-durite-voltage-converter-18a-3518.html

http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-234...ard-blade-fuse-box-with-clear-cover-1484.html
 

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