Wet Boot

[glanrichbex]

The carpet in the boot is holding about 10 gallon of water

The door seal around the back door looks good and I had the boot floor welded and undersealed earlier this year so there are no holes there. It seems to happen after the heavens open which is pretty much what we've had.......saying that .... living in West Wales it seems that's all we ever get.
I'm not asking you to do something about the weather but can you suggest a reason for the water logged carpet / sound deadner in the boot before the rust worm moves in again.

 

[Fez_uk]

it leaks through the rear door seal. Bottom/top left corner

 

[jims-terrano]

Open tailgate and look above boot aperture, you'll see a seal across the top. Use silicone and seal underneath it.

Remove the plastic trim across bottom of aperture. Then force as much silicone under this trim plate all the way across. Then screw it back down again.

Also the seal around the tailgate does squash over time. The seal is hollow and has air holes around the seal. I threaded a piece of wire through the seal to bulk it out, careful though as the wire can break out through the sides of the seal.

Someone did this in the early days of this club so I copied it. All these fixes cured my leak:thumbs

 

[Peasgood1]

Take your back wheels of and make sure the metalwork behind them is sound.
Pretty much where the seatbelts fasten and surrounding area.

 

[rustic]

I think rather than wire, some members pushed thin plastic pipe into the door seal, something like aquarium air line, or screen washer pipe.

To locate the leak, if you remove the carpet, roll up pieces of kitchen roll and place around the trim in the boot area and observe them.

If the leak is that bad, take a hose pipe and see if the water is entering at the top and observe around the door seal.

I have heard that drying the area first and applying a liberal amount of talc can show where the water is tracking.

The door seal seems to be the area to look at. :thumb2

Rustic

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

so does the aqua pipe inside the seal combat it squashing and losing the seal it has with
other edge. Think thats what mine does though could be to left hand of lower plastic plate.

tend to have tub of salt in to recover moisture. think old t2 was similar, but annoying as
troll was always dry.

 

[Sweety]

so does the aqua pipe inside the seal combat it squashing and losing the seal it has with
.

It should do & if you have a Wilkinsons near you it's about £1.50 for a 2-2.5m length of air line tubing:thumbs So far so good mine is dry at the min but going to silicon up the lower trim anyway:augie

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

hope so as got a full set of seals from Clive when he broke his mav but was no better, so much condensation at this time of year as never dries out.

 

[jims-terrano]

I think bulking out the seal with anything should do the trick. I just happened to have wire at hand. Think it was Shark1e that did it originally.

 

[Sweety]

I think bulking out the seal with anything should do the trick. I just happened to have wire at hand. Think it was Shark1e that did it originally.

That rings a bell now 2-3 core electric cable was used IIRC one think with air line or washer tubing is it will squash so might help gice a better seal

 

[firebobby]

I just removed the lower plastic cover and squeezed silicon in, then screwed the cover down and wiped away the excess. Nice and dry since :thumb2

 

[clivvy]

I've used Carafax on mine. Worked out where the water was going. |Seems to come through the top guttering, down into the edging which it follows all the way to the kick plate and into the left of the boot under the plastic trim and soaks into the carpet (this is what happened on mine)

SO, I removed the guttering at the top, cleaned and carafaxed it back in place, nice and tidy, then carafaxed the top edge of the edging, so water doesn't go into it and carafaxed the kick plate - I can now observe the water follow the correct path.

The reason I used Carafax is because its cheaper than sealant and you get a hell of a lot more BUT its a bitch to work with. As I used it a lot to fix up my old caravan I knew what I was going and its worked a treat. I didn't want silicone because I didn't want the seal to set, I wanted it flexible, fingers crossed it lasts.

 

[glanrichbex]

Many thanks everyone for your replies and suggestions:thumb2 - I'll have a go at it Saturday morning and hope when I pull the carpet right back that there are no nasty suprises in store.

 

[edgerton19]

Oddley enough I was in the same position a month ago, very wet carpets.

Stage 1) As suggested above I removed the door tread panel and used black silicone to seal the last 200mm of trim strip at each side and after cleaning, I ran an 8-10mm bead under the rear edge of the tread panel before relocating and screwing down you just need a small fillet to squeese out no point in using excess.

Next day water had gethered at the same level as the tread panel but had not entered the carpet till I braked.

Stage 2, Remove the door seal from where the window finished all the way round the bottom of the glass at the other side, clean the seal and the door run a fillet of silicone in the corner of the door where the seal fits and refix seal onto door, close door wait overnight.

Next day water had gethered at the same level as the door tread panel again so I mopped up with a sponge before driving.

Stage 3, remove the 2 plastic pins at either end of the rubber gutter on the roof at the top of the rear door apature and remove seal, behind seal was loads of muck so I knew I was on a winner !! Clean seal in clean water and detergent then clean roof where seal fits with meths etc. Run a 8-10mm bead of silicone about 10mm down from the top of the roof and refit seal close rear door and wipe excess silicone from the seal/roof join.

Next day AND for the last month no more water in rear

Ease carpets up support on wood block and dry with fan heater 1kW setting (with windows slightly open they dry in 4-5 hours.