'welded' on wheel

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Joined
Nov 30, 2004
Messages
5,155
hi,

just been rotating wheels front back and v.v.

near side rear stuck on, any ideas how to get it off
other than at tyre shop.

its a factory alloy btw.

richard
 
i had the same problem, even smacking the tyre with a lump hammer did not budge them,

in the end i undone the nuts slightly and droped the clutch rather hard, and then i still had to twat them with a hammer :roll:
 
If the nuts are slackened off so the wheel could wobble how about putting it back on the ground and wobble the car about, would that loosen them? but what ever happens before extremely careful with slack wheel nuts.
Once you have em off why not smear the surfaces with copper slip?

BTW doesn't the owners handbook tell you not to change them about?

Jim T

PS you could always drive off somewhere let the air out of your tyre and call AA out assuming your covered -rotfl-
 
The 2 ways I often use to remove a stuck wheel is first when it's jacked up & surported is to give the top part of the tyre a good kick :lol: if that dose'nt work I then use a bit of soft wood which I place against the rim/tyre & give it a good whack with a hammer & then turn the wheel around 90' & do it again :roll: But you do run the risk of damaging the rim :roll:
 
Why rotate the wheels :?: surely this wear all the tyres out at the same time :wink: :roll: your drive wheels wear even but the fronts need to be kept an eye on for correct wear, saying that i need to get one of my fronts spun round as it has worn out the outer edge on one wheel :evil:
 
Loosen the wheel nuts & then drive the car - carefully & slowly, and the wheel will come loose. Got to be really careful on a rear axle as you won't get any real indication of the wheel beeing loose, just stop every 100 yards or so and check - an empty car park is best.

Prevention is better than cure though, and a smear of copaslip on the hub face prevents this happening - some sort of bimettalic corrosion occurs I think, but the resulting corrosion welds the different metals together.
 
theduck said:
Why rotate the wheels :?: surely this wear all the tyres out at the same time :wink: :roll: your drive wheels wear even but the fronts need to be kept an eye on for correct wear, saying that i need to get one of my fronts spun round as it has worn out the outer edge on one wheel :evil:

Rotating wheels front & rear means that the tyres do all wear out together, and this keeps the tyre diameters constant pretty much front & rear - means less risk of transmission damage, and then means tyres are replaced as a set of 4. If by spinning a front tyre spun round, you mean the outside of the tyre becoming the inside, this isn't really reccomended as radial tyres do bed in according to the direction of rotation, and switching the tyre round in this manner can give the effect of an unbalanced tyre.
 
slak whel nuts and try just rocking back and forth up a kerb outiside oyu own house so ther is least danger, and dont back them off too much!
I had this several times on early sieras with 'steel' wheels, i have even had to take a grinder and cut the wheel and tyre off!!

Hoepfully yours wont be so bad, if you can get at the joint between the wheel and hub face betwwen the spokes of the alloy try some penetrating oil carefully so you dont oil the brake discs and leave it stand over night then wipe off any excess before driving!

A tyre dealer could do no more!
 
CHEERS.

tried loosening, but to be fair only reversed about length of car but did give it some welly forwards.

Pretty sure handbook says front to rear and vice versa keeping to same sides. Found osf has worn so hoping to save tyre, though need to get tracked and balanced very soon ... hopefully in morning if local tyre shop can accomodate.

So swapped offside fine, problem came when trying to get nearside done.
 

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