Waiting for a lift...

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The Patrolman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2009
Messages
2,121
Just waiting for 50no. 60mm Dia 10mm thick spacers for my freebee lift kit, well free to me:thumb2
This should make 10no. 50mm (2 inch in proper money) spacers. Got plenty of 12mm studding and nuts to get my bolt lengths mm perfect.
How hard can it be?????????:nenau:nenau:nenau

What else do I need...

Apart from a 2"spring lift and a set of 37"'s...
 
Just waiting for 50no. 60mm Dia 10mm thick spacers for my freebee lift kit, well free to me:thumb2
This should make 10no. 50mm (2 inch in proper money) spacers. Got plenty of 12mm studding and nuts to get my bolt lengths mm perfect.
How hard can it be?????????:nenau:nenau:nenau

What else do I need...

Apart from a 2"spring lift and a set of 37"'s...

Er you shouldn't really use studding. It's not as strong as bolts, especially high tensile ones.
 
Ah the trol is a little more tricky than the T2 to lift. Brake lines and breathers are on the limit on 2" lift. You may need to replumb the front axle's brake feed. I teased mine out but have since renewed the brake pipes. Watch out for the fuel filler too , it's pretty tight.
 
I only did a 1inch body lift on mine to save having to alter the bumpers, plus I have a 2inch susp lift and didn't want to change the pipes and hoses just yet. I still had to trim the body slightly around the 4wd lever. Also took the bottom off the fan cowl.
 
Mine's 2 + 2 and had to do a little trimming for 35s so 37s will need a bit more work :D
 
Er you shouldn't really use studding. It's not as strong as bolts, especially high tensile ones.

I think m12 8.8 studing will be plenty multiply that by 10.

M12 8.8 has approx 60mm2 x 800n/mm2 = 48,000N
48,000n / 9.81 = 4,892Kg almost 5Tonnes nominal strength

Oh and there're 10 of these so 48 tonnes to seperate the body from the chassis, not even Make it fit would flinch at that I reckon.

if you drop down to ungraded 4.4's thats only half of the above.

If you go to High tensile 12.9 's that's a whopping 72Tonnes:eek::bow
 
I think m12 8.8 studing will be plenty multiply that by 10.

M12 8.8 has approx 60mm2 x 800n/mm2 = 48,000N
48,000n / 9.81 = 4,892Kg almost 5Tonnes nominal strength

Oh and there're 10 of these so 48 tonnes to seperate the body from the chassis, not even Make it fit would flinch at that I reckon.

if you drop down to ungraded 4.4's thats only half of the above.

If you go to High tensile 12.9 's that's a whopping 72Tonnes:eek::bow

Ok if you're using good stuff. I was assuming you were using crappy allthread type stuff. Btw I used 12.9's in mine. 2 ton of vehicle hitting something moving at even 30mph puts a walloping amount of energy into the body and you can't really use the multiplication of strength calculation since the impact forces are localised.
Tbh I can't remember in detail all the stuff I learned about clamping forces, torque loading on bolts versus studs and rolled and machined threads but you obviously have it worked out, unlike the guy with the landy I saw some years ago who had the rear tub of his motor torn clean off on the mway after an accident in his lifted 90. Thank goodness no one was in the back seats of that at the time.:eek:
 
I'm sure the standard bolts aren't any where near 8.8's and the body hasn't fallen off yet:thumb2
There's no difference between a bolt with a nut at one end, or a stud with a nut at both ends. The one nut would always be, Theoretically, the weakest link.:rolleyes:
It was too long ago, as you say, to remember the relevant bollox we were taught at skool:augie but i think I'm safe with me bolts mate. everything else may be questionable but i think I'm safe with me bolts:clap
 
I'm sure the standard bolts aren't any where near 8.8's and the body hasn't fallen off yet:thumb2
There's no difference between a bolt with a nut at one end, or a stud with a nut at both ends. The one nut would always be, Theoretically, the weakest link.:rolleyes:
It was too long ago, as you say, to remember the relevant bollox we were taught at skool:augie but i think I'm safe with me bolts mate. everything else may be questionable but i think I'm safe with me bolts:clap

Yes of course practically if you are using 8.8 studding in the real world as opposed to college and toolroom theory, it will be ok, but I like having extra insurance and I feel more comfortable with the ability of a shanked bolt and it's extra material to cope better with the likelyhood of shear forces versus clamping forces that may be encountered in service. I guess working on big heavy passenger trains keeps me on my toes as far as safety is concerned.

Glad you know your stuff and you're not using cheap diy threaded stuff as i first thought. :D
 

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