Vibration when stationary

[reetp]

Ahhhh...

So I was looking in the front of the truck considering my first move with the 41mm socket I now have which fits, and noticed a bit of rubber wedged down on the front engine guard.

Hmmm. Odd. Then I went under the truck looking at locking up the propshaft. A tyre lever is quite a good fit in the UJ....

I was looking forward and thought it odd that the sump pan seemed lower on one side than the other. Hmmmmm.

Then I looked from above and the fuel pump seemed mighty close to the steering box.... and the top of the engine is definitely not level, sloping to the fuel pump side.

So, get my little hydraulic jack out, jack up engine and take a look, And sure enough there is almost zero rubber left on the mount :-(

So, that's the problem, probably exacerbated by the small diesel leak over a period. And the age of the truck.

So, how the hell do you change that mount without removing the fuel pump?

The drivers side (right from the front) is easy peasy. But the other is hard. Trying to get to the top nut in the mounting look impossible. I might be able to remove the engine side mounting bracket from the engine with the 4 bolts?

Ahh just seen this. So that is the way to do it.

Take off wheel and access with extensions + wobbly sockets etc to remove the bracket from the block.

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=326271&postcount=3

 

[reetp]

Well that fixed it.

What a nightmare of a job though. Quite a bit easier with two people, though still very fiddly. Whoever built their production line should be taken about and shot........ must have been SO easy to get to it without the body on.....

We undid the engine mounting bracket and the the chassis side of the mount. The back chassis mounting bolt was really hard to free with little space to work. I actually undid it by putting the spanner through the gap where the rubber used to be!

The mount was literally in two pieces. I'll do a pic tomorrow.

We tried to loosely bolt the engine mounting bracket to the actual mount and offer it up but there just wasn't enough room to put it in situ.

So we loosely bolted the engine mounting plate, then got the new mount wiggled in, and then put the captive nut on top.

Then we put in the chassis bolts - easier if you do the rear first then the front. Easier with a hydraulic jack to lift the engine up and down a bit to get some alignment.

Once we had all six bolts in we then tightened up the engine bracket, then took out most of the slack on the captive nut, then tightened the chassis bolts and last tightened the captive nut.

The captive nut is a nightmare. We had one of us below with a 14mm Snap-on ring spanner with the person on top to control the ring. The bottom one lifts and rotates one flat and the top person allows the ring to come up, but not off.

Slow and laborious but you get there. The comment elsewhere about shortening the stud is probably good advice

 

[jims-terrano]

Satisfaction though when you’ve repaired a job like that :clap

 

[reetp]

Satisfaction though when you’ve repaired a job like that :clap

Absolutely

 

[reetp]

As a follow up, here's a pic of the old one.

Or at least the remains thereof !!!

 

[reetp]

Ooops

 

[Banshee]

Top job sir!!!! Get some pics up if you have any of the actual job itself

 

[reetp]

Top job sir!!!! Get some pics up if you have any of the actual job itself

Unfortunately I didn't :-( Sorry - I should have done so.

Up to my neck in grease oil & shite so wasn't about to grab said phone as for the most part I did it myself. My mate gave me a hand putting the new one in.

If anyone else tries to do this then I'm happy to answer questions on it.

Battery out. Get the rad out to give yourself some wiggle room from the front. Get the power steering pump + reservoir & piping out the way as well - every millimetre of access will help. So will small hands.....

The rest of the access is from the side through the wheel arch, and from below.

It "may" be easier to free the mount on the other side to be able to jack the engine up a bit further to give a bit more space. We didn't go too high which meant you couldn't put the mount + bracket pre-assembled into place. That then means it is a nightmare to try and do up the single nut that connects the mount to the engine support bracket.

I did see a comment about reducing the height of the stud on the engine mount itself to reduce the number of turns required on the captive nut. However, that stud has a non threaded guide part at the end to help locate the nut, and also makes it easier to keep the ring spanner located as you rotate it. So YMMV.

Anyways, it really is a poxy shite job