Vibration when stationary

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reetp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
152
Hi All.

2020 and it has turned to rat sh*t already :)

My wife being super at diagnostics reported a 'bit of a vibration' a few days ago. Always the mistress of the understatement.....

I suspected at first from her description it might be the rear half shaft bearing which was replaced a few years back after leaking and has always moaned a bit since.

Then she said she drove into the city and it got quite a bit worse, and then when she drove back she thought the car was going to break down as it was so bad.

I suspected then that maybe it was the rear silencer mounting that had broken again which always gives a nice vibration.

She got home and I took a look and sure enough the mount was gone.

Dive in to the garage for the trusty spare and slap it on. Joy.

Then I fired it up. Good lord. I am lucky I still have all my fillings!

Thing is shaking like a good un.

No signs of smoke (the normal puff when starting as I need to replace a couple of heaters), seems to run and pull OK. Just vibrates like a beast when stationary, and as a result is not pleasant to drive.

The engine doesn't seem to try and rotate laterally when revved whilst stationary so I don't think it is the engine mounts. But the vibrations do increase with engine speed as it is revved. Oddly it feels a bit more pronounced when driving and turning left or right. No idea why that occurs.

The vibration almost feels like it is only on 3 cylinders, or what you might expect if you lost a balance weight on a crankshaft...? Or say a a chunk off the edge of the flywheel.

No other strange sounds heard at all. All normal except for the vibrations.

The fuel pump has had a small leak for ages but hasn't seemed to affect the running to date.

Any suggestions?

B,. Rgds
John
 
Engine Vibration

Is it a manual or automatic ?

Is the front pipe well clear of the bodywork at the front, if a mounting has failed may have moved it a little?
 
Hi and thanks for replying.

Manual.

As far as I can see it isn't touching anywhere... I did have a reasonable look at that.

That's when I started to become puzzled!!
 
This sound bizarre!!!! I'd love to see a video of you could get one uploaded or sent to me and I'll upload?
 
LOL... yup!!!

Leave it with me. I can stick it on a youtoob thingy (I do IT for a living!!)

I'll try & do it tomorrow.
 
From what I can glean from your description I would go for the front pulley damper rubber lost its bond, if that proves OK then something much more serious like loose flywheel, broken crank, Rick
 
Oddly it feels a bit more pronounced when driving and turning left or right. No idea why that occurs.



Any suggestions?

B,. Rgds
John

Certainly points to crank pulley, extra load when power steering pump comes in, Rick
 
From what I can glean from your description I would go for the front pulley damper rubber lost its bond,

Any pointers how to look/check?

Pics etc?

if that proves OK then something much more serious like loose flywheel, broken crank, Rick

The pulley sounds likely. I think if it was crank/flywheel I'd notice more.
 
Having had a quick read about such things, I'd say that it would appear that this is a failure of the crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer.

As I said it feels like the crank/flywheel has lost a balance weight so a pretty accurate description I think :)

I had no idea about harmonic balancers!

I presume this is the right part?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-C...rano-2-R20-TD27-2-7TDi-1993-1999/282524572474

Any idea how much space you need to get the old one off? Radiator presumably, but this one has aircon too?
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Think you should have enough room with rad out, to undo crank bolt put it in 4th gear and put a sprag bar in the uj behind the box, it is tight, if you rely on transmition there will be far too much wind up to undo it, Rick
 
Think you should have enough room with rad out, to undo crank bolt put it in 4th gear and put a sprag bar in the uj behind the box, it is tight, if you rely on transmition there will be far too much wind up to undo it, Rick

Class tips.... thanks.

Seems OK for access to the bolt, but wondering if there is enough if a puller is required?

Another part link:

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/febest-11776617.html
 
Damn... at a guess that's a 40mm socket required?

Biggest I have is 36mm.

Bugger.

Easy to get too though. Just one socket short of a full picnic!!
 
Damn - it isn't 40mm is it?

Any idea what size socket is required for the bolt?
 
Think you should have enough room with rad out, to undo crank bolt put it in 4th gear and put a sprag bar in the uj behind the box, it is tight, if you rely on transmition there will be far too much wind up to undo it, Rick

Don't hit the bar with a hammer I did that once on a Mini - it broke a tooth on a gear wheel!
 
I think its possibly a 42mm.
Will have a look as I bought one when i changed my engine to lock off the crank when i installed the torque converter.
 

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