Vague steering

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Banshee, are your tie rods what I describe as track rods. The rod at either side between the drag link and the wheel hub?
 
You say "tried the wheel alignment" was it out and did he adjust it to the correct value? if your tyres are scrubbing then I would have expected it to be out, do not forget once a tyre has started to scrub ie wear on the inside or outside edge, there is no stopping it even after tracking sorted as the tyre now has two different rolling radius-es and the scrubbed part will scrub even more due to it needing to turn quicker as it is smaller, re the steering box it is adjustable, there is a thread on this someplace, Rick
Yes Rick he said it was out and he did adjust it. I said tried to adjust it because it is worse than it was! From the garage it felt better, after half hour driving it was squealing on round a bouts frightening people?
I understand what you're saying about the already scrubbed tyres. Also raising the front must have changed things too.
The thread on steering box. I found one where you answered saying to be careful as if you over adjust it could lock. Am I right?
Thanks Rick. :thumb2
 
When did you last do your LSD diff oil, mine is in need of doing and the rear wheels squeal on most corners, if your fronts are squealing then pull the fixed hubs off and give it a test run, if that stops it you have a transmission problem, Rick

It's definitely the fronts that are squealing.
I still have the boat like feeling when changing lanes and I have to keep both hands on the wheel as it tries to pull one way then the other.
I'll remove the hubs and try it.
Thanks again Rick. :thumb2
 
You've just tweaked the torsion bars to bring the front of the car level with the rear.

In doing this the angles of your tie rod ends will have increased thus placing them under more stress, I can promise you it will be either the drag link joints or the tie rod joints. You'd know about it if it was the idler arm bush.

Oomph!
Nah mate. Mine isn't to that standard. Yet.
I thought I'd change the idler cos they're only £35 ish? And a new one must be an improvement :nenau
 
Basic question, but better asked...
You are not in four wheel drive are you ?:nenau

I'll get my coat lol....
 
Basic question, but better asked...
You are not in four wheel drive are you ?:nenau

I'll get my coat lol....

Oh no way!!!! How could I have not noticed :doh


No rustic lol. Not in 4 wheel drive. As they say, the only stupid question is the one not asked. Something like that.

I'll just go and check :confused:
 
The thread on steering box. I found one where you answered saying to be careful as if you over adjust it could lock. Am I right?
Thanks Rick. :thumb2

Yes you have to remove the tie rod ball joint from the drop arm on the box then set the datum mark on the input shaft to vertical, in this position there should be no play on the drop arm, adjust with the nut and screw on top of the box, over adjusted it probably would not lock up but be very tight in straight ahead, Rick
 
Yes you have to remove the tie rod ball joint from the drop arm on the box then set the datum mark on the input shaft to vertical, in this position there should be no play on the drop arm, adjust with the nut and screw on top of the box, over adjusted it probably would not lock up but be very tight in straight ahead, Rick

Thanks Rick. Something else on the list to check :thumb2
 
Banshee, are your tie rods what I describe as track rods. The rod at either side between the drag link and the wheel hub?

That's the one matey :thumb2

Good luck :thumbs, and if you mess it up take a pic for me so I don't do the same :lol :D

I'll be taking some pics :thumb2

Yes you have to remove the tie rod ball joint from the drop arm on the box then set the datum mark on the input shaft to vertical, in this position there should be no play on the drop arm, adjust with the nut and screw on top of the box, over adjusted it probably would not lock up but be very tight in straight ahead, Rick

Do you mean the pitman arm Rick? I'm going to adjust mine when I remove ot from the car
 
Yes Mate the big arm on the bottom of the box, make sure it is in the straight ahead position (plastic cover with tit on the input shaft lines up with line on box) , Rick
 
Yes Mate the big arm on the bottom of the box, make sure it is in the straight ahead position (plastic cover with tit on the input shaft lines up with line on box) , Rick

Thanks Rick I'm sure it will become apparent when I come to do it.
 
So come on, What you found? stuck in 4 wheel I would not mind guessing, thing is when lever is taken from 4 to 2 it only pulls on a spring cos on transmission wind up you would never be able pull it out of drive, as you reverse or go round corners this wind up is released and when it does the spring pulls the cog out but a number of things can stop this, Rick
 
So come on, What you found? stuck in 4 wheel I would not mind guessing, thing is when lever is taken from 4 to 2 it only pulls on a spring cos on transmission wind up you would never be able pull it out of drive, as you reverse or go round corners this wind up is released and when it does the spring pulls the cog out but a number of things can stop this, Rick

Found nowt yet! I'm sure it's not stuck in 4wheel drive though.
It has to be worn ball joints and idler so I'll be refreshing them next :thumb2
 
Found nowt yet! I'm sure it's not stuck in 4wheel drive though.
It has to be worn ball joints and idler so I'll be refreshing them next :thumb2
Take a video like the one I did with the wheels off the floor and car supported, we'll soon tell

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Take a video like the one I did with the wheels off the floor and car supported, we'll soon tell

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

worn ball joints and or idler will not cause sqeeling tyre noise, jack one wheel up and see if it spins free, Rick
 
worn ball joints and or idler will not cause sqeeling tyre noise, jack one wheel up and see if it spins free, Rick
My front passengers side wheel was squeeling on roundabouts and sharp corners until I swapped drag link and tie rods again.

I was pooing myself I wondered what it was

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
worn ball joints and or idler will not cause sqeeling tyre noise, jack one wheel up and see if it spins free, Rick

When I had the wheels off the other day to adjust the bearings both were spinning freely.
Before having the tracking done I could corner quite hard before getting squealing tyres. After tracking it's at much lower speeds.

My thinking was there's enough play somewhere that although they tracked within tolerances, as soon as I moved it, the tracking was out again?

I've got doubts now though, because you have Rick, as you are the terrano/maverick master :bow
 
We have plenty of the small speed ramps you can almost straddle. As these trucks are narrow would constantly spreading the bottom of the wheels over these have caused movement somewhere else?
 
We have plenty of the small speed ramps you can almost straddle. As these trucks are narrow would constantly spreading the bottom of the wheels over these have caused movement somewhere else?

We have mountains of those in Hastings, and I have not had any problems, for your fronts to squeal they would need to be way out track wise or the joints very badly worn, not all fitters know how to do the tracking, I had to stop a guy once when he was trying to set up optical tracking kit with one side on the tyre and the other on the rim but with one leg on the lip the other on the rounded part further in, horrendous, I can think of several reasons why for instance you could be driving your front wheels, have you done the acid test and removed the front hubs, if so did it still do it? Rick
 

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