Torsion bars, help!

[(RIP) PLANK]

I am removing my gearbox tomorrow, what do i need to know about the torsion bars and re setting ride heights etc.

Thanks

 

[zippy656]

mark where they are with some paint.. just line it back up

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

mark where they are with some paint.. just line it back up

clever clogs . . . :augie

but what if they are already a bit saggy how do i measure the correct height, then i can adjust at the same time :thumb2

 

[lacroupade]

clever clogs . . . :augie

but what if they are already a bit saggy how do i measure the correct height, then i can adjust at the same time :thumb2

plenty of threads Plank but there are two ways.

The OFFICIAL way is as per the manual, that is to say you have to adjust the front ride height so that the lower wishbones are angled in such a way that the inner ends are one-point-something inches (the exact measurement is in the Manuel) higher than the outer ends.

Or you can do it the quick and dirty way and do it so that the top of the front wheel arches is about 2-3 cms lower than the rear. That allows for a bit of sagging at the back when you have a trailer/van on.

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

plenty of threads Plank but there are two ways.

The OFFICIAL way is as per the manual, that is to say you have to adjust the front ride height so that the lower wishbones are angled in such a way that the inner ends are one-point-something inches (the exact measurement is in the Manuel) higher than the outer ends.

Or you can do it the quick and dirty way and do it so that the top of the front wheel arches is about 2-3 cms lower than the rear. That allows for a bit of sagging at the back when you have a trailer/van on.

I like quick and dirty, or better still slow and dirty, either way the second one is for me :thumbs

 

[kitchenman]

Manual FA page 30 read all about it

 

[solarman216]

I have just put Briggie's back together today, I measured the amount of thread protruding from the top nut, both sides they were the same, then removed the tension on the bolts, so the the torsion bar was only being held up to the cross member the part that the bottom of the bolt sits in was flush with the cross member, this positions the splines, I found one spline out made about 5 mm difference to this so it is easy to get this right, but if you are doing a clutch I would never ever do it this way, we have done several and taken the engine out every time, this is the first box I have removed, and never again it is a big big pain in the butt, maybe I am getting past it but I found it very hard, Rick

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

I have just put Briggie's back together today, I measured the amount of thread protruding from the top nut, both sides they were the same, then removed the tension on the bolts, so the the torsion bar was only being held up to the cross member the part that the bottom of the bolt sits in was flush with the cross member, this positions the splines, I found one spline out made about 5 mm difference to this so it is easy to get this right, but if you are doing a clutch I would never ever do it this way, we have done several and taken the engine out every time, this is the first box I have removed, and never again it is a big big pain in the butt, maybe I am getting past it but I found it very hard, Rick

cheers for the advice, we were/are planning to remove the gear box, we have a bout 5 hours to take it out, and put it back

but we do have ramps and air tools etc and there are two of us :thumb2

 

[solarman216]

cheers for the advice, we were/are planning to remove the gear box, we have a bout 5 hours to take it out, and put it back

but we do have ramps and air tools etc and there are two of us :thumb2

when you say ramps do you mean the drive up things you put on the floor or a garage style lift, Rick

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

when you say ramps do you mean the drive up things you put on the floor or a garage style lift, Rick

No, a choice of ramps of different types in a large well equipped workshop :thumb2

 

[solarman216]

No, a choice of ramps of different types in a large well equipped workshop :thumb2

OK you are better of than me on that one if you have a gear box cradle on wheels with lift then you will be ace equipped, but 5 hours is gonna be tight, dont forget you have to get the front wheels off the ground so chassis supports needed, air tools? limited use here, small strong hands are better, but even in your well equipped workshop I would still take the engine out, aligning engine to box is so much easier, and the risk of damage to the center plate is much less, you will have problems getting the box/engine low enough to engage the spigot/first motion shaft and bending the plate at this stage is very high, I wish you luck and can we have pics of the old clutch, Rick

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

OK you are better of than me on that one if you have a gear box cradle on wheels with lift then you will be ace equipped, but 5 hours is gonna be tight, dont forget you have to get the front wheels off the ground so chassis supports needed, air tools? limited use here, small strong hands are better, but even in your well equipped workshop I would still take the engine out, aligning engine to box is so much easier, and the risk of damage to the center plate is much less, you will have problems getting the box/engine low enough to engage the spigot/first motion shaft and bending the plate at this stage is very high, I wish you luck and can we have pics of the old clutch, Rick

We have a access to gear box cradle, engine hoist and all sorts :thumb2
I will explain your points to my 'assistant' who is actually the real mechanic! I'm holding his coat :lol
Probably use one of the two post ramps so all 4 wheels are free and it is lifted by the chassis. Your experience and advice is always useful cheers Rick :thumb2

 

[solarman216]

We have a access to gear box cradle, engine hoist and all sorts :thumb2
I will explain your points to my 'assistant' who is actually the real mechanic! I'm holding his coat :lol
Probably use one of the two post ramps so all 4 wheels are free and it is lifted by the chassis. Your experience and advice is always useful cheers Rick :thumb2

they are the best for this job, but still not easy, await your comments when done, Rick

 

[eboy]

hi all, i done my clutch at work on a proper 2 poster ramp and there where 2 of us aswell, we done it in about 4.5 hours we had a hydrulic jack aswell only moved box back to gain access to clutch easy lots of work though, i just paint marked torsion bars and removed then when refitted put back on paint marks then adjusted hight accordingly, also paint mark prop shafts aswell as may cause vibration if not put back in same place
hope this helps in some way, cheers eboy.

 

[solarman216]

hi all, i done my clutch at work on a proper 2 poster ramp and there where 2 of us aswell, we done it in about 4.5 hours we had a hydrulic jack aswell only moved box back to gain access to clutch easy lots of work though, i just paint marked torsion bars and removed then when refitted put back on paint marks then adjusted hight accordingly, also paint mark prop shafts aswell as may cause vibration if not put back in same place
hope this helps in some way, cheers eboy.

OK I must be getting old, but I did have to change the entire box and it is auto, but took me two days, but no post lift, on the ground, but I must be getting slow, Rick

 

[eboy]

fair play to ya would'nt want to do one on the floor, plus the auto being heavier and we never took box off the jacks just moved back.

 

[terranobreakershropshire]

have to say ive never done it 5 hours, thats good going i rekon!

 

[cncfabs]

OK you are better of than me on that one if you have a gear box cradle on wheels with lift then you will be ace equipped, but 5 hours is gonna be tight, dont forget you have to get the front wheels off the ground so chassis supports needed, air tools? limited use here, small strong hands are better, but even in your well equipped workshop I would still take the engine out, aligning engine to box is so much easier, and the risk of damage to the center plate is much less, you will have problems getting the box/engine low enough to engage the spigot/first motion shaft and bending the plate at this stage is very high, I wish you luck and can we have pics of the old clutch, Rick

When you say take the engine out i dont know if the petrol ones are different but on the diesel it wont come out without moving the gearbox back first as the sump is tight on the front axle