Tips Needed Bending Copper/Kunifer Piping

[Banshee]

I took a stroll through Warwick yesterday afternoon to pick up my Kunifer fuel pipe.

I've got 7.5 metres of both 6mm & 8mm and ready to get it fitted to the truck but I wanted some tips on how I should be bending, flaring etc.

I managed to remove both the feed and return in one piece intact. I planned on getting a length of Kunifer straightened out to just a tad longer than the original pipe, put it next to each other and use the pipe bender I've ordered to follow the angles of the original pipe, once that section is done I was going to wrap them together tight as I can with some electrical tape and work my way to the end.

I'm really surprised how bad the pipes were as they didn't look too bad when I waxoyled them last time around but that was a while ago, I'm just glad the chassis and body are not in the same state

They seem to be worse where they have been clamped, I'm not using the original fixings again I've purchased some rubberised "P" clips in both 8mm and 6mm and will use according along the chassis.

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Give a short piece a test bend, if it kinks easy anneal the parts you want to bend :thumb2

 

[macabethiel]

Bending Copper based pipework

I did a motor using this stuff and used a brake flaring kit to make the single and double ends mine was 1/4" diameter tubing back in the day. Some makes of pipe are softer than others and I found the "softer" type much easier to work with. Have used the newer harder mix on brake pipes only and it was more difficult to form with hands only.

To help with sweeping bends I formed it round an old wooden bobbin. I then found it would hold in place on the existing clips so just worked my way from one end to the other. The final end I had to form the flares in situ that was challenging.

Also did a similar job on a Mini Cooper to put the Hydrolastic lines inside the vehicle they were about 3/8" diam. I used some compression fittings on these from a local Hydraulic Specialists that did Digger pipes. They also supplied adapters to screw into the displacer flexible pipes. That was fairly easy as I was working on a stripped down body shell doing a rebuild as the old body shell was bent from lamp post contact! Cost more for fittings and adapters than for the pipe !

I tried heating with a blow torch but that did not work for me.

 

[Banshee]

Give a short piece a test bend, if it kinks easy anneal the parts you want to bend :thumb2

I did a motor using this stuff and used a brake flaring kit to make the single and double ends mine was 1/4" diameter tubing back in the day. Some makes of pipe are softer than others and I found the "softer" type much easier to work with. Have used the newer harder mix on brake pipes only and it was more difficult to form with hands only.

To help with sweeping bends I formed it round an old wooden bobbin. I then found it would hold in place on the existing clips so just worked my way from one end to the other. The final end I had to form the flares in situ that was challenging.

Also did a similar job on a Mini Cooper to put the Hydrolastic lines inside the vehicle they were about 3/8" diam. I used some compression fittings on these from a local Hydraulic Specialists that did Digger pipes. They also supplied adapters to screw into the displacer flexible pipes. That was fairly easy as I was working on a stripped down body shell doing a rebuild as the old body shell was bent from lamp post contact! Cost more for fittings and adapters than for the pipe !

I tried heating with a blow torch but that did not work for me.

Awesome boys!!! These are the kind of experiences I wanted to draw from :thumb2

 

[elty001]

i would say most could be bent by hand but never used the kunifer stuff myself.
A tip for getting your lines almost perfect is to tape the new line to the old line as you are working along it to get it almost perfect:thumb2

 

[Banshee]

i would say most could be bent by hand but never used the kunifer stuff myself.
A tip for getting your lines almost perfect is to tape the new line to the old line as you are working along it to get it almost perfect:thumb2

:naughty :naughty

I've got me insulation tape handy :thumb2

 

[don simon]

Just a thought, could you not feed some cord (or something) along the line to prevent kinks?

 

[Banshee]

Just a thought, could you not feed some cord (or something) along the line to prevent kinks?

Funny you say that, I've just watched a video where a guy filled a copper pipe with sand, he did some real real tight spiral bends and even packed with sand the pipes got slight flat spots.

Seems the best way is to cap and end and fill with lead solder, then when the pipe has been shaped heat the solder and out it drips :naughty

 

[Blocky10]

You'll be fine I reckon. Looking at the photo's, there's a couple of 90 bends but they're not tight are they. I'd say a little heat on them is all you'll need. You need a practice piece:thumbs

 

[Monaro Pete]

What's the NB of the pipe you're going to be working with?

To support the copper as they shape & form pipe work, plumbers use a bending spring.
Some net curtain flex could act the same if the NB is correct & it's long too.

 

[Fez_uk]

you can get brake pipe benders to help make neater bends, im sure they would help or maybe they make small mandrel benders like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Faithfull...914367?hash=item3f42ef3bff:g:Ad4AAOSw~AVYnj8N

 

[makeitfit]

TOP TIP, the route Nissan takes those pipes around is scenic to say the least. I wouldn't even bother trying to copy it. Just start at one end and gently form it along the chassis side and fix with P clips, simples
Engine bay end is the fiddliest, so start there

 

[macabethiel]

you can get brake pipe benders to help make neater bends, im sure they would help or maybe they make small mandrel benders like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Faithfull...914367?hash=item3f42ef3bff:g:Ad4AAOSw~AVYnj8N

I used one of those to bend Microbore pipe for my r3mR vaccum pipes.

 

[Banshee]

What's the NB of the pipe you're going to be working with?

To support the copper as they shape & form pipe work, plumbers use a bending spring.
Some net curtain flex could act the same if the NB is correct & it's long too.

I'm not sure mate, all I know is it's 6mm and 8mm :nenau

You'll be fine I reckon. Looking at the photo's, there's a couple of 90 bends but they're not tight are they. I'd say a little heat on them is all you'll need. You need a practice piece:thumbs

I'll be sure to chop off some practise material before I take it to the truck :thumb2

you can get brake pipe benders to help make neater bends, im sure they would help or maybe they make small mandrel benders like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Faithfull...914367?hash=item3f42ef3bff:g:Ad4AAOSw~AVYnj8N

I've ordered one of those Fez, should already be here but it's not

TOP TIP, the route Nissan takes those pipes around is scenic to say the least. I wouldn't even bother trying to copy it. Just start at one end and gently form it along the chassis side and fix with P clips, simples
Engine bay end is the fiddliest, so start there

I'm gonna try and stick to the normal route, if i deviate and start getting creative who knows where I'll end up

I used one of those to bend Microbore pipe for my r3mR vaccum pipes.

What did you use to replace those vacuum pipes?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

I saw a program where they made trumpets and horns once, and what they do is once they have bent the pipe, they force lots of ball bearings through the tube to open it back up to the right size... only problem is you need enough ball bearings for the entire length of the pipe. :doh