Time to say goodbye?

[Flying Torquewrench]

To finish off for today, a nice piece of preformed sill repair roughly cut to length.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Rick, you say that the idle increases as the engine warms up. What sort of increase are you seeing?

 

[solarman216]

Wow, has this motor ever resided in or near the Sea? you certainly have some rot there, but sure you will sort it, re my pump cannot be precise as rev counter is not operating but I guess around 1800 and if I back off the idle screw it gradually dies, most odd, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

It was previously registered to an address on the coast in Essex. I think that a farmer owned it previously, based on the amount of mud that was everywhere. Or of course, a very keen offroader.

Now I need to invest in a good sheet metal brake. Everything I find online only takes up to 1mm thick at a push. I have been thinking about a Smithfield S12. It is manual hydraulically operated and fold up to 300mm wide. Which should be enough for what I need it for. The big advantage is that it has the following capacity:
Bend 5mm thick mild steel up to 100mm width.
Bend 3mm thick mild steel up to 200mm width.
Bend 2mm thick mild steel up to 305mm width

Whilst they are relatively easy to build yourself, I just don’t have the time and space at the moment. I need the Patrol back on the road asap.

I had planned to change the body mounts as well but after some consideration it doesn’t seem worth it. I only do about a 1000 miles a year in the Patrol and most of it is short distances with the trailer. New body mounts cost around £400 if I want them Nissan original. That is the price from Japan so not even the dealer. So the savings there, would pay for the press/folder.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

That is a lot of RPM’s Rick. I will do some research on this end to see if I can come up with anything.

 

[solarman216]

I like the sheet bender, iirc Makeitfit obtained a manual one but forget the details, I have no need as a mate in Eastbourne has a large one that can do anything I could ever need, Rick

 

[solarman216]

Well seem to be getting somewhere, this is pump No 1

 

[solarman216]

Pump No 2

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

I am jealous Rick. My mates have no tools at all as they are not mechanically minded. Every time they are doing something I am the one that provides the tools.

Ideally I would like a bigger metal folder but the cost becomes prohibitive for the amount I need it. Most of the cheaper ones online barely fold 1mm sheet, with the 700mm ones only folding 0.8mm. Not much use to me as I use 1 mm for all the metal on the bodywork.

Anyway, by bashing some 2.5mm sheet in the vice you can also get it into shape. Cut a bit of metal today and clamped it into position. This is 2.5mm. Once it is welded in place I need to trim the bottom edge.

Behind 2 & 3 is the body mount. Still working out how to best repair that.

 

[solarman216]

Purely by accident discovered the secret of this little feller, it is the sliding sleeve that is controlled by the governor flyweights, whilst comparing the two for wear/differences etc discovered the small metering hole, when I thought back to when I disassembled in on Pump No 1 (the pump just removed from the motor) I remembered it seemed to not slide too well like it was suctioning, did not pay much attention at the time as the flyweights fell out and was more concerned not to misplace any of them, (such is very short term memory issues) but luckily when washing the second one in oil noticed the jet produced which pointed me to the orifice, and once I had thought about it for a while realized this could just cause my problems if it was bunged/restricted (which I think it was) as it would hold the plunger in the wrong position causing rev control issues, all back together now, just need to do a bench test and then replace it on the motor, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

This a piece of sheet metal that sits over the metal in the previous photo. On the left you can see the green coloured sheet. This is the continuation of that.

Made the first corner (bottom) by hammering it over a piece of angle iron. The top corner, I bend with a pair of pliers a few degrees at a time. Once in the required shape I hammered it flat on a flat piece of steel. Not too bad, even if I say so myself.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

That very well may be your problem Rick. Good find. It is amazing how something this simple can cause you such a headache.

Only just seen the photos of the pumps in a million bits. Are you trying to keep the parts all together as one pump or are you mixing & matching? Making one good pump out of two? However, your second pump was recently overhauled so it should be alright.

 

[solarman216]

Mix and match, best bits of both pumps, within the specs in the manual (which is not the most specific of all time), Rick

 

[solarman216]

Well all up and running again, steady idle, starts on the button, power a tad down but have not fine tuned it yet, so blocked or obstructed pin hole it was, now to get on with the clutch, front disks & pads, control arm bushes, rear air springs and reinforced rear wings, but instead of hijacking your thread I will start a new one, not that anyone will be complaining, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

That caused you a few headaches but in the end a reasonable easy fix. Most people would just end up buying a new fuel pump at great expense.

It sounds like you have enough other work to do on the Patrol. Looking forward to your thread.

Haven’t done too much myself today. Fixed my transmission jack. I sent an email to Draper to see if they had the required grub screw. Technically it is still under warranty but as i overloaded it, it seemed unfair to claim it on them.
They were very kind to sent me a new grub screw free of charge but unfortunately this didn’t fit. They sent a normal grub screw and it needed to be a grub screw with a dog point. Learned a new name. Once I knew what I needed I order a few online and all is good again.

The gearbox inserts are still outstanding. I placed another order with them but this time for dispatch from Japan instead of the UAE. Hopefully they make it here by the time we get back from holiday.

I hadn’t planned to take the rear axle off until the gearbox was fixed. However, with all the delays and the corrosion on the rear panel it makes sense to remove it now. Not only can I complete all the welding work whilst waiting for the gearbox parts, it will also make access a lot easier.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Nothing goes as planned on this bloomin car. Removing the rear wheels today and the locking wheel nut is damaged. This one has always been a bit problematic but now it won’t move at all.

No extractor that I have is big enough, need a 21mm and I have up to 19mm. New extractor set ordered.

Every time I work on this car I end up with a whole new set of tools.

Now the search is on to find some OEM locking wheel nuts.

 

[solarman216]

That is a bit of a bummer, I dislike locking wheel nuts for that reason, I have an old selection of 12 sided sockets many in imperial and SAE sizes, my method is to select one that is just a tad tight and hammer it on with a good sized lump hammer, always works for me, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Unfortunately I have very few 12 sided sockets. I tried it with a 6 sided one to no avail. Ordered an extractor which should be here on Friday.

Started my repair on the body mount today, only to realise that the remaining metal was paper thin. In the end I encapsulated the mount in 4mm sheet, that should do the trick.

Finally a bit of good news from Amayama. All the inserts have been delivered to their warehouse and they went in the post today. Unfortunately, it takes around 7 days to get here and then I am on holiday. At least when i come back I have all the parts to fix the gearbox.

Hopefully get the sill repaired before we go on holiday but no guarantees. Most of the metal is cut and bend, just need to start welding now.