The holey Welsh turd

[90jwo]

I've been busy making a start on my T2, cutting out and chasing the rot for now so I can use it as intended.

It's a 1999 pre facelift Terrano II SE 2.7 and both me and the missus have fallen in love with the thing. I'm already planning on a second.

Here's some photos of it as it stands for now. Just little mods so far such as LED dipped/main beams and sidelight bulbs.

I have a few mods in mind such as fitting 31's, a snorkel and painting matte black with raptor liner. But for now getting a clean bill of health is my priority.

Any suggestions are more than welcome and greatly appreciated.

Yesterday I stripped out the back seats, carpet and a bunch of trim and this afternoon spent a couple of hours poking about and cutting into the rear arches and under the seats.

I've had to cut out the seat belt mounts as they were stuffed. I'm glad I've found it and get the chance to beef up the mounts as I often take my nephews, 4 and 7 out in it. Just need to figure out what to do about the third row mount plates.h

First few cuts of today

Peekaboo - seatbelt mounts out.

State of the rear... I think I'll have to hide the white throw else I'll have been castrated by the end of the week.

Jamie



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[terranosaurusdoug]

Nice, I had to do something similar, whats wrong with the third row mounting gear, won't they just bolt back in?

 

[90jwo]

Nice, I had to do something similar, whats wrong with the third row mounting gear, won't they just bolt back in?

Thanks, the arch rust goes under both of them so I think I'll be cutting them out and welding on some new threads or trimming the edge and seaming it from the outside.


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[terranosaurusdoug]

Ah rite, just getting them back in the right place then. I believe it's in layers, maybe peel the top layer back with the holes in, weld some new metal then fold top layer back down, mark where the holes are then cut if off, or something along those lines.

 

[rustic]

Wow... that's a task and a half. Looking at other posts from the past it is entirely doable. What thickness metal are you using,, I think there are several layers under the second seat, and it's this design that leads to trapped mud and water and the inevitable rot.

I think it was in New Zealand they had an approved mod, it was a prefabricated sub assembly that was welded in to give the strength.

I must admit, I do look under the rear carpet around MOT time to look for any bubbling, but so far it looks ok after 22 + years. Just in case folks forgot how long I have had this vehicle lol :doh
So why are older Terranos and Mavericks less vulnerable? or are they?:nenau
1 the Maverick was Ford's first badged car to have a 3 year guarantee, and they specified a better under body protection than Nissan. So are Mavericks better than Terranos?
2 I haven't intentionally bogged my mav down in mud, and when subjected to a dirt or mud shower, I always wash under the vehicle. It has been on the beach, but not used in salt water splashes like they do on top gear.

I think we need to isolate which years were most vulnerable, I have the theory that when Renault took part ownership they cut costs, eg fixed front hubs, removed the grease nipples on the front propshaft, fitted the tin plate rear diff etc maybe they reduced a rust prevention coating too !
I think the earlier Mavericks were better, but I am biassed and I have spent many many hours preventing rust in the first place, so mine is just not the typical factory produced car.
Most new cars come out of the show room and just driven, untill something goes wrong, we did the same with the Picasso, and now the yeti, and we can expect 12+ years of rust free motoring.


When I first saw the pictures of the holes in the floor, I don't know why, but I started to hum the song...

Flintsones they're the Flintstones, have a yaba daba do time, a yaba do time, ...

:lol:lol
Rustic

 

[Davey Boy]

You obviously no what your doing:thumbs

 

[RJL Services]

your led lights are they bulbs or complete units as thinking of light upgrade but the bulbs tend not to have good beam cut off point more of a hot spot :nenau

 

[micken]

Now them's what you call photos. It's gonna be good to see how this takes shape :thumb2

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Wow... that's a task and a half. Looking at other posts from the past it is entirely doable. What thickness metal are you using,, I think there are several layers under the second seat, and it's this design that leads to trapped mud and water and the inevitable rot.

I think it was in New Zealand they had an approved mod, it was a prefabricated sub assembly that was welded in to give the strength.

I must admit, I do look under the rear carpet around MOT time to look for any bubbling, but so far it looks ok after 22 + years. Just in case folks forgot how long I have had this vehicle lol :doh
So why are older Terranos and Mavericks less vulnerable? or are they?:nenau
1 the Maverick was Ford's first badged car to have a 3 year guarantee, and they specified a better under body protection than Nissan. So are Mavericks better than Terranos?
2 I haven't intentionally bogged my mav down in mud, and when subjected to a dirt or mud shower, I always wash under the vehicle. It has been on the beach, but not used in salt water splashes like they do on top gear.

I think we need to isolate which years were most vulnerable, I have the theory that when Renault took part ownership they cut costs, eg fixed front hubs, removed the grease nipples on the front propshaft, fitted the tin plate rear diff etc maybe they reduced a rust prevention coating too !
I think the earlier Mavericks were better, but I am biassed and I have spent many many hours preventing rust in the first place, so mine is just not the typical factory produced car.
Most new cars come out of the show room and just driven, untill something goes wrong, we did the same with the Picasso, and now the yeti, and we can expect 12+ years of rust free motoring.


When I first saw the pictures of the holes in the floor, I don't know why, but I started to hum the song...

Flintsones they're the Flintstones, have a yaba daba do time, a yaba do time, ...

:lol:lol
Rustic

Where were Mavericks manufactured?

 

[jims-terrano]

Haha reminds me of last year with the wifes old truck:thumbs:thumbs

Keep it upu you'll get there. By the way whilst you're in that area take a look at the fuel filler neck, they rot like mad too so might as well fix it too.

 

[zippy656]

Now them's what you call photos. It's gonna be good to see how this takes shape :thumb2

Its good to see people are learning PICS are needed in every thread.

Pics so much more than just words.

 

[90jwo]

Wow... that's a task and a half. Looking at other posts from the past it is entirely doable. What thickness metal are you using,, I think there are several layers under the second seat, and it's this design that leads to trapped mud and water and the inevitable rot.

I think it was in New Zealand they had an approved mod, it was a prefabricated sub assembly that was welded in to give the strength.

I must admit, I do look under the rear carpet around MOT time to look for any bubbling, but so far it looks ok after 22 + years. Just in case folks forgot how long I have had this vehicle lol :doh

So why are older Terranos and Mavericks less vulnerable? or are they?:nenau

1 the Maverick was Ford's first badged car to have a 3 year guarantee, and they specified a better under body protection than Nissan. So are Mavericks better than Terranos?

2 I haven't intentionally bogged my mav down in mud, and when subjected to a dirt or mud shower, I always wash under the vehicle. It has been on the beach, but not used in salt water splashes like they do on top gear.

I think we need to isolate which years were most vulnerable, I have the theory that when Renault took part ownership they cut costs, eg fixed front hubs, removed the grease nipples on the front propshaft, fitted the tin plate rear diff etc maybe they reduced a rust prevention coating too !

I think the earlier Mavericks were better, but I am biassed and I have spent many many hours preventing rust in the first place, so mine is just not the typical factory produced car.

Most new cars come out of the show room and just driven, untill something goes wrong, we did the same with the Picasso, and now the yeti, and we can expect 12+ years of rust free motoring.


When I first saw the pictures of the holes in the floor, I don't know why, but I started to hum the song...

Flintsones they're the Flintstones, have a yaba daba do time, a yaba do time, ...



:lol:lol

Rustic

Hi thanks for the reply, I think you may be on to something with the model year. The Renault merger took place around 1999.

Don't suppose you know if there's a second skin/reinforcement plate underneath yours? Perhaps the mating faces are sealed off properly as opposed to being open moisture traps. I have a small hole in the chassis around the same area - where the bracket for the brake pipes sit..

I've seen the NZ reinforcement plate too. I think it was on here, along with a detailed installation guide. But I do wonder if a simple plastic arch liner would have prevented it from the factory.

Flintsones!! Brilliant, be nice if I could change the tax band to suit!

Ah rite, just getting them back in the right place then. I believe it's in layers, maybe peel the top layer back with the holes in, weld some new metal then fold top layer back down, mark where the holes are then cut if off, or something along those lines.

Cheers mate that sounds like a good idea. I've had to hold off on any more work as I was let down with welding. So I'm having to use it to commute with gaping holes in the floor. Not ideal but not the end of the world. We'll get there.





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[90jwo]

your led lights are they bulbs or complete units as thinking of light upgrade but the bulbs tend not to have good beam cut off point more of a hot spot :nenau

Hi, the LED bulbs are cheap hi/low H4 ones from eBay for just under £18

Aluminium units with COB LED's and cooling fans.

I can't honestly say they're better but they do offer a nice crisp white beam and they're nice to look at.

Cutoff points and beam angle is nowhere near a factory setup and they had to be rotated inside their heatsink/body to correct the beam. Also worth pointing out that the rubber covers won't fit your lamps once these are fitted.

I'll do a write up on here with night pics and comparisons when I get a chance. Busy couple of weeks and weekends at the moment.

I think something like the all in one daybreaker units would give you a brighter, more consistent beam but I'm no expert and that's going purely on what I've seen online. They seem to be popular with the Jeep Wrangler guys.

 

[90jwo]

Its good to see people are learning PICS are needed in every thread.

Pics so much more than just words.

Of course! Helps make proper sense of things.

Haha reminds me of last year with the wifes old truck:thumbs:thumbs

Keep it upu you'll get there. By the way whilst you're in that area take a look at the fuel filler neck, they rot like mad too so might as well fix it too.

Good shout! I've spotted a couple of little pits in the filler (under the cap) but I've yet to dig deeper. I'm assuming the hose is all silicone from there to the tank. Thanks

 

[90jwo]

You obviously no what your doing:thumbs

I do try, but i mostly wing it..


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[90jwo]

Update time! Welding/MOT/Wheels and tyres.

So we had the rear welded up at the start of July and she passed the MOT with no advisories!

It's since been painted over with underbody seal inside and out and the seat belts are back in. The third row wasn't much of an issue as the seams were just welded up.

Passed a nice mileage milestone too.

Last week I found these 16" wheels with 235 85 16 tyres on eBay and won the set for £62. A bargain for the wheels alone and only an hour or so away near Wrexham.

Bit of a tight squeeze as they're just shy of 32"

I had to remove the front mud flaps and wind up the torsion bars to give me a bit of extra clearance.

I'll be re-indexing the torsion bars when I get a good day free but for now it doesn't seem too bad and only rubs at lock.

So this how she's sitting for now.

Thanks for all the advice and inspiration you guys have given me so far.

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Looks good with those wheels on mate:thumb2 I'm considering a similar size tyre next time round, does it drive ok on them?

 

[Banshee]

Lovely job on the welding mate and the MOT pass :thumb2

Must have missed this thread first time around.

I don't know how you've managed to shoe horn those wheels and tyres on without a 2" body lift at least be careful on the rutty stuff I reckon you'll catch a few bits here and there but nothing major, more importantly I don't want you wrecking the tyres!!!!

Will be keeping my eyes open on this thread, I see potential :naughty

 

[90jwo]

Lovely job on the welding mate and the MOT pass :thumb2



Must have missed this thread first time around.



I don't know how you've managed to shoe horn those wheels and tyres on without a 2" body lift at least be careful on the rutty stuff I reckon you'll catch a few bits here and there but nothing major, more importantly I don't want you wrecking the tyres!!!!



Will be keeping my eyes open on this thread, I see potential :naughty

Cheers mate, I can't take credit for the welding as a friend did the welding up after I cut the rot out.

The tyres are far from a perfect fit as the fronts rub when parking but being the same width as standard gives me a bit of leeway. Tyre size is 235/85/16.

2" lift is on the cards.

Cheers for the advice
Jamie




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[90jwo]

Looks good with those wheels on mate:thumb2 I'm considering a similar size tyre next time round, does it drive ok on them?

Cheers, it's fine for everyday driving but I wouldn't recommend it without lift. Parking and tight turns jam against the inside plastic liners.


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