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hullpatrol

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2019
Messages
8
Hi all some of you may have seen me I'm new guy section for those who haven't I'm Chris and I'm from hull.

So a bit about my 3.0 lwb patrol. Well i got it 2 months ago thinking it was in good shape turned out it's not. So I'll list a few of the problems and see if anyone can help me out.

So first off fuel tank is leaking. Can this be filed with chemical metal or do I need new tank? Dose anyone have one for sale?

Second were the rear shock sits in the cup at top the cup has slightly pulled off the chassis. Plan was to grind clamp back were is should be weld and then plate over and weld . Would this work?

3rd when I set off the rear axle is rocking back and forward I'm guseeing this is the rear bushes on the arms?

4th the bar that leaves the axle towards the front of car and connects to a bracket on the chassis witch has rotted off before and someone has 're fabbed the part out of steel that thin it looks like it's made from an old wing. So is Guna have to be cut off and 're made. Has anyone ever done this and did you have any trouble after?

And finally not really a problem but might as well have it all on one thread dose anyone run 37" tyres if so how much did u have to cut? What lift did you have? I'm currently running 35" a/ts with no rubbing.

Thanks for anyone taking the time to read and hopefully reply.

Chris
 
sound like the chassis is a rot box, I would be going round the whole thing with a small hammer and see how it sounds, if you have not got some sound metal to weld to it is not worth the bother, I had a T2 on which the tube across the chassis rails virtually fell out, I had a spare chassis so cut the tube and both sides of the chassis and grafted them in, it worked well, there is a thread on it some place, Rick
 
As Rick says, a good poke and knock about to see what's rusty or damaged and evaluate the condition before spending any money or starting work is the way to go. Is this work you would tackle yourself or pay to have done?
 
its all work i can do my self im a fabricator by trade so the welding and fabbing is not really a problem
 
Should be a walk in the park for you then! :thumb2 What do you fab & weld for a living?
 
Is there any lift on the truck at the moment?

If it's still standard I would look at fitting a 2" lift straight off the bat as 35s and no lift will be fine in normal use but will rub once you get offroad and start flexing. 2" lift can be done just with lift springs and standard shocks, but better with 2" shocks for the flex.

For fitting 37s, a 2" lift plus cutting will do it, see Patrolman's threads as that's how he fitted 37s on his Y60 (takes a lot more on a Y60 so you probably wouldn't need as much cutting :nenau).

Without cutting you're looking at probably a 4"lift minimum and once you get to that size you have to look at castor correction or drop boxes for the front axle, extended panhard rods and possibly extended trailing arms on the rear axle.
 
Nice repair Rick, do you still use Argoshield Light? Just wondering if you have it on the Volkzone/hobbyweld deal from BOC as my Argon for the Tig and Argoshield Light now cost me less per year than I was paying for just the Argoshield and there are no collection fees.
 
Yes still use the light, it only costs me the yearly rental cos I am now rated as a low user I get a free exchange voucher, Rick
 
Yes still use the light, it only costs me the yearly rental cos I am now rated as a low user I get a free exchange voucher, Rick

I've never heard of that, wish they had noticed my low use of Oxy-Acetylene as I ended up returning the bottles through minimal usage. The rentals were over £100 a year for each of the four bottles of different gasses I had.
 

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