Terrano ZD30 NADS

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micken

Well-known member
Club Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2016
Messages
158
Can't wait for this:clap

Here goes Ian, no more waiting.

I've had the T2 for 16 months now and it's always been a bit of a smoker, although it cleared its last mot no problem. Advisory on the pads led me to change them and also the discs, which turned out to be beyond their wear limit. Other than standard service items and two bulbs these are the only bits I've had to replace in this period.

At the same time I tried to get the front pipe off the exhaust due to this,



but after loads of penetrating oil, air impact gun, breaker bar etc the nuts onto the catalytic converter would not move and I didn't want damage at that point since I needed to use it.

This gave me time to surf and research which gave me more serious concerns about the smoke from the exhaust. I came to the conclusion that I'd do the full NADS in order to take control of boost and exhaust temperarures, possibly needing to change the intercooler and maybe get more air in via a snorkel. I also figured that it might be worthwhile taking the dump pipe off the turbo to do this and work on those front pipe nuts on the bench.

Dog wasn't impressed he just wanted to play ball.



It took a lot of work to get the nuts off and it's not something I would have wanted to do from under the truck. Anyhows, got the dump pipe drilled, tapped and weld bund fitted, then able to check the position of the thermocouple sender.



I'd already taken the intercooler off and cleaned it out together with the throttle body, which was in the same state as others that you've seen from patrols. The IC was drilled and tapped and the boost gauge connector fitted.



This is to the rear of the IC so that the hose to the gauge can go straight back through the bulkhead to the driver's side. You can see the clear hose coiled up just below the IC.



Dump pipe back in place.



Front pipe back on but I didn't like the sound of the nuts squeaking when torquing it up to the catalytic converter. I'm going to get some new nuts on here unless someone has any other suggestions.

Will be back with more soon, I'm finding Photobucket a bit laboriouZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzz :surrender
 
Will be back with more soon, I'm finding Photobucket a bit laboriouZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzz :surrender

Awesome pics mate, keep at it with Photobucket, when you get into the swing of things it's not too bad. :thumb2
 
Here we go again.

Hole cut in heat shield, refitted and thermocouple in place.



Brackets made up for Provent 200.



Fitting here between air filter housing and washer bottle, using mounting bolts for those two items.



Holding Provent here.



Clearish pipe in background is what I'm using for the drain and it's 15mm inside diameter, so having a few copper fittings around some of these became a plug. There's a nice little slot down in the wheel arch for it to sit in.



Feed from crankcase vent and return to air intake pipe plumbed in. In keeping with what the Aussies consider best practice I used the largest ID hose that was readily available (19mm) and gave it a bit more structural integrity and protection with cable wrap :D



I now need to think a bit more about the positions of the gauges but I'm thinking about temporarily mounting them in a project box that I can put up on the dash when needed until I decide about something more permanent. I'm currently thinking on the dash above the rev counter for the boost gauge and somewhere low down on the centre console for the EGT gauge.

Iv'e hopefully got a Dawes valve and a needle valve winging their way from the States to me.
 
Awesome pics mate, keep at it with Photobucket, when you get into the swing of things it's not too bad. :thumb2

Cheers, :thumb2

I uploaded directly from iPhone this time and added to the thread using PC. I think I'm getting there.
 
That's top work Mick:clap
Can be bit of a chore keep stopping to take a photo but I'm glad you have. This thread will come in handy :naughty
 
That's top work Mick:clap
Can be bit of a chore keep stopping to take a photo but I'm glad you have. This thread will come in handy :naughty

Cheers.

My iPhone has never been so mucky and slippery, like some women I would like to have known :lol:lol
 
Awesome stuff! Great pictures too! :thumb2

Lovin the bracket you made for the Provent! :clap
 
On another note, I didn't think the NADS mods we needed for the Terrano as I've heard that all the problems with the earlier ZD30's were ancient history by the time they started dropping them into the Terrano :nenau
 
On another note, I didn't think the NADS mods we needed for the Terrano as I've heard that all the problems with the earlier ZD30's were ancient history by the time they started dropping them into the Terrano :nenau

Kept completely standard and serviced properly they should be fine but it's piece of mind bro, and it allows you to mess with boost and blank the egr etc in safety.

Looking good by the way Mick :thumb2
 
On another note, I didn't think the NADS mods we needed for the Terrano as I've heard that all the problems with the earlier ZD30's were ancient history by the time they started dropping them into the Terrano :nenau

In the reading that I've done post 2004 ZD30 vehicles have been mentioned fairly frequently. The way my T2 has been giving out smokey exhaust emissions is consistent with doing the NADS mods.

Catch can to remove oil from air being cycled into the intake. Cut down on EGR or remove it completely. Control spool up and boost limit for better combustion of fuel. All of these things are reversible if needs be and the parts can be reused or sold on if I can't achieve what I want.

I'm also thinking about trying to get the engine to breathe better, possibly by using a snorkel and modded filter system. Snorkel would not be reversible :lol:lol

I figured that there would be no harm in trying out these mods to see what effect they have on smoke emissions. :nenau
 
Looking good by the way Mick :thumb2

Cheers. :thumbs

when I got the T2 there was a replacement solenoid zip tied to the original one and I suspect that the MAF and boost sensors had also been replaced. I know that the car had previously been chipped but without any ECU remapping, the chip was removed before I got it.

On some of the Aussie forums they recommend oil changes on these engines every 5000 kilometres, which is every 3000 miles. Fresh oil in mine goes black very quickly, so I'm intending to do a flush and a few shorter term oil changes now that I've got the Provent fitted.

Hopefully on the right track but let's see.
 
I reckon the early bad design ZD30's tainted the rep and a lot of breakdowns in a ZD30 are put down to grenading when actually they're standard issues that can happen to any engine.

Without a doubt though the only way to blank the 3.0 egr safely is doing some form of NADS and who doesn't want to blank their egr? :nenau
 
Cheers. :thumbs

when I got the T2 there was a replacement solenoid zip tied to the original one and I suspect that the MAF and boost sensors had also been replaced. I know that the car had previously been chipped but without any ECU remapping, the chip was removed before I got it.

On some of the Aussie forums they recommend oil changes on these engines every 5000 kilometres, which is every 3000 miles. Fresh oil in mine goes black very quickly, so I'm intending to do a flush and a few shorter term oil changes now that I've got the Provent fitted.

Hopefully on the right track but let's see.

Read that too about the oil changes but tbh my experience of 4 years with my 3.0 Trol is that the ZD30 is a lot more robust than it's given credit for. I fitted catch can and blanked the egr (I just tweaked the vnt stop rather than full NADS) but I only changed oil every 6 months doing around 16000 miles a year and she was fine even with lots of offroad abuse :nenau
 
...the ZD30 is a lot more robust than it's given credit for...............I only changed oil every 6 months doing around 16000 miles a year and she was fine even with lots of offroad abuse :nenau

I reckon the early bad design ZD30's tainted the rep and a lot of breakdowns in a ZD30 are put down to grenading when actually they're standard issues that can happen to any engine.

Without a doubt though the only way to blank the 3.0 egr safely is doing some form of NADS and who doesn't want to blank their egr? :nenau

I agree entirely, I've owned a Volvo V70 D5 from new in 2002. It's a cracking engine, if not a classic and its had its fair share of problems that have been worked through and fixed over its life, regular EGR clean out has been central to this. I can see similar concerns with the ZD30 engine but it's also got the same potential for being a classic engine if it's given some care and attention. With a unit that's been well serviced and running as it should, then no problem. If it's one that's been neglected or tarted around with then normal servicing might not bring it back to running nicely.

This is where I'm at right now with my T2, I need to take more control over what it's doing so that I can hopefully get it running better.

When it had its last mot the tester said it was better underneath than a lot of similar trucks only six or seven years old. Body good and engine lacking, which is not the usual scenario for a T2 this old. It's got 86k miles on it and I did about 8k road and soft off road miles last year.

Really hope I can get this running nicely and definitely think that the NADS mods will help.
 
With a unit that's been well serviced and running as it should, then no problem. If it's one that's been neglected or tarted around with then normal servicing might not bring it back to running nicely.

Agree with you completely bud!

Good work mate, your doing the right things so I'm sure she'll be fine. Looking forward to seeing the progress :thumb2
 

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