Terrano refuses to start

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Another update!

Hi everyone,
Thanks to you all for your help and ideas.

Just to let you know...

I printed off your post from yesterday Toolbox, and handed it to my fed up other half as I left for work this morning. He did exactly as you said, and there was nothing more than the usual from the starter, at which point, he removed it, together with the battery, and took them both off into perth to an auto electrician to have them tested. The auto electrician phoned about 10 mins ago to say he has dismantled the starter and there is a problem with it. He didn't say what the problem was, only that he didn't have the parts to fix it in stock, and that he would show us the problem if we pop in tomorrow. So the new starter is beginning to look like it's involved in this mischief. Do we think I've been sold a dud? I'll let you know what happens...
 
will be good to know what was wrong with the starter..
so if ours pack up we can cheack

thanks broken!



Zippy
 
brokendownmandy said:
Hi everyone,
Thanks to you all for your help and ideas.

Just to let you know...

I printed off your post from yesterday Toolbox, and handed it to my fed up other half as I left for work this morning. He did exactly as you said, and there was nothing more than the usual from the starter, at which point, he removed it, together with the battery, and took them both off into perth to an auto electrician to have them tested. The auto electrician phoned about 10 mins ago to say he has dismantled the starter and there is a problem with it. He didn't say what the problem was, only that he didn't have the parts to fix it in stock, and that he would show us the problem if we pop in tomorrow. So the new starter is beginning to look like it's involved in this mischief. Do we think I've been sold a dud? I'll let you know what happens...
Click to expand...

When I changed the starter on my T2 the first one I got was duff.:doh

A few more skint knuckles and it was fine. I also had to change battery as original was killed by starter pulling way to many amps:(

:)
 
Hey everyone,

So, the inside of our new starter had disintegrated, but it was replaced under guarantee. The new one is now on - only takes us half an hour now!

However, although the engine wants to start, something's not letting it. Shock, horror...

Here's where I am at present:

Heater light on dash won't go out and glow plug relay not clicking in.
Power going into relay, but not coming out. So it's the relay, right?
Off to breaker's yard, got a new relay. Same story.
Opened up 1st relay, plugged it in, touched the little arm thing down to complete the circuit, power now going to Glow Plug Electrical Connector.
So should the glow plugs not now be operating enough to start the engine?
Obviously not, because in spite of all this, and putting a different battery on it, it's still not starting.

Can anyone please give me an idea? I haven't tested the glow plugs themselves, because that wouldn't stop the relay working would it? I'm very stuck. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Amanda.
 
Not sure of anything with this car any more. How do I tell if there's no fuel going through? Bearing in mind I'm mechanically challenged...
 
ok well its a diesel so if it turns and has fuel it should start ... eventually

do you have glow lights when you turn it on ?

if you do.... ignore it when it goes out just count 10 - 15 seconds instead then turn it over . if its glowing it should glow for about ten mins after start up till its warm anyway.

so if its week the 10 - 15 seconds should help

but if its turning over good and fast it should fire unless you got no fuel
this could be blocked filter you could have a mini filter even on a early tdi see download .
or a fractured fuel line can you smell fuel or have oil marks on drive when you park up.

a damaged fuel line will be a pig to turn over as it will always drain back to the tank when you stop , so to start it has to suck all that fuel back up the pipe

try the 10 -15 seconds thing several times.

check for leaks or smell of diesel

if still no luck pm toolbox he will help he's prob the best
 
I think Amanda said that the heater plug lamp on the dash doesn't go out just stays lit and there is no click or anything from her heater plug relay or a replacement she got from a breakers yard. If I read her post correctly.

Is it possible the breakers yard sold you a duff relay?

Is it the correct relay your messing with or is there another as well as that one?

Does anyone know how you can run a 12v feed to plugs to heat em up and try starting?

Will the engine start eventually without heater plugs coming on?

Hope I've got it right what you wrote Amanda. Stay with it girl your nearly there and when it's running you'll love it to bits, just ask Willow.

Jim T
 
Erm, if this is a T2 with fly by wire, then the ECU actuates the glow plug relay by earthing the coil side.

This it does in response to the coolant temp sensor- so you get varying amounts of pre-heat according to engine temp. There is also a post-glow period after cold-start which the ecu also controls.

Once you have it cranking over nicely, bridge out the diagnostic connector and pull any fault codes from the ecu.

I have a slight feeling that for some reason your ECU isnt powered up either cos the immobilizer is still engaged, or there is an electrical problem preventing it...

Tim.
 
Amanda

The heater plug relay is turned on by the ECU making an earth connection to it, as is the heater plug light.
The ECU also controls the fuel injection pump, so if there is an absence of smoke from the exhaust when trying to start, then this would suggest the ECU is not allowing the fuel to the engine.

I would go through all your fuses again, making sure they are all in the correct places and I would also check all the earth connections you can find, making sure they are all sound.

Is the engine management light (MIL) on?
Do you have an immobiliser light on the top of the dashboard? If so what’s it doing?
 
Hi
you may need the immobilser codes from Nissan. if you have pulled the wrong fuse it upsets it and thinks your stealing it
Tony:thumb2
 
Engine management light on

Hey Guys,
Engine management light is on but this used to be the case when the car worked and it would go out once the car was started,no smoke coming from the exhaust when trying to start the car, alarm light flashes really fast when it is resetting but flashes about once every 2 or 3 seconds when ignition is turned on. When i originally bought the car the key fobs for the alarm were not working so took it to nissan who replaced the batteries and tried to reset then to the car with no success and advised me that they may not even be the correct fobs for the car. Usually when i unlock the car the horn goes off and the indicators flash until i have turned the ignition on and then it stops.Allan has tried to see if there are any error codes but says that there does not seem to be any. I really dont want to take it back to nissan as they broke it last time.It kind of looks like it is not getting any fuel.
 
hi
look in downloads on how to reset your key fobs
Tony:thumb2
 
Hey Amanda, just checking but the actual ignition key's do they have the RED dot on them to indicate they are transponder keys?

Jim T
 
Key fobs

Yes they have red dots on them.Will try the resetting thing when i get the ruddy car to start!
 
Sorry Mandy another question or two.

Is the alarm still working and still stops when you turn the key on?

You say the immobiliser light flashes slowly when trying to start, if you just leave the ignition switched on, without trying to start, is it the case that it still just flashes slowly? If you could leave it on for a wile and see what happens.
 
Hi, no sorry, the immobiliser light on the dash flashes really fast when you lock the car, then once it sets, flashes slowly. When you unlock the car, the alarm goes off until you turn the ignition on, then it stops and the light goes out and stays out, which is what it's always done.
I've checked all the fuses again, checked all the earth connections. Everything seems to be in order there.
I've made a slight faux pas in one of my previous posts, when i said my other half had told me there were no fault codes showing, what he actually said was that the MIL was on when he turned the ignition on, and stayed on. He'd then tried to access the fault codes as per the download, but when he bridged the connector thingy for 2 seconds then removed the paper clip, the MIL didn't flash as it's supposed to. Would this be something to do with the problem? He tried it a few times to no avail. Sorry, I picked him up wrong. It's usually him not listening to me.
 
The alarm should not sound when you unlock the car, unless you are unlocking with the door lock and not the plipper.
 
The immobilize seems to be working as it should, with the light extinguishing. If there was a problem with it, the light should stay on after ignition is turned on.

I would double check that your other half is bridging the data link connector on the correct two pins; it should return a code of 55 if there are no errors present.

To rule out that there is plenty of fuel getting to the injection pump, you could rig a temporary supply of fuel to it, using a fuel can of fuel held up high and with a length of hose siphon from the can and connect straight to the main feed pipe on the injection pump (pipe nearest to the front of the engine on pump) you may wish to also rig the return from the pump back in the can but not necessary for just trying to start. It will then pay to slacken a pipe to one of the injectors and turn over on the key, when and if fuel comes from the pipe at the injector tighten up and try to start again.
 
Hi, yes he's bridged the connector on the correct two pins as it shows in the workshop download. I tried it myself last night and the MIL doesn't flash, it just stays on regardless of what we do.
I'll have to wait til the weekend before I check the fuel's coming through, as we're both off then, and I don't fancy trying that one on my own. I don't know what the injection pump looks like or even where it is.
I wouldn't find this quite as annoying if it wasn't such a good car. It even sailed through it's MOT (a week before this happened) without needing so much as a bulb - very rare for a car of mine! And it's only done 39k. Sod's Law...
 
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