Terrano has died on me

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bullseye

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2011
Messages
7
Hi all I,m hoping some of you knowlageble chaps have some ideas on how to resurect my Terrano back to life.It is a 2.7 TDI commercial that I use for my pest control business (and to get kids to school and fetch supplies in the snow of late) and I am totally lost without it.
The story so far; it has done 160+k miles and in the four years i have owned it, it has never missed a beat until about five weeks ago, just when the first snow fell.when I started it on the Sunday it started fine as usual but a couple of times stopped almost straigt away then started and ran fine.On the monday it started fine and I made a few calls then went to a farm job stopped engine as usual 30mins later jumped in ready for off, but no off !motor just turned over but would not start,no smoke from exhaust ,nothing,battery running flat,jump start off another vehicle ,nothing.
Vehicle towed in to my local one man band independent garage.
I then went abroad for 3 1/2 weeks to visit relatives (missing most of the snow) and left it with him expecting it to be sorted when I get back, WRONG !
I arrive back New years day to find van still in the same spot.
There is fuel getting to the fuel pump (gauze in banjo union clear) but no fuel arriving at no1 injector.I am not 100% sure what mechanic has actually done but he had another guy check it with a scanner of some sort and only clarfied that it was not the immobiliser stopping it from starting(this vehicle has a different system from the NATS standard one) when I asked him about fault codes he was pretty non discript saying it pointed to the pump.
He basically has no idea what to do next.
I recharged the battery, checked and cleaned terminals,checked fuses and various electrical connections,no change.
I then followed the download feature on reading the fault codes bridging the connector as described,when I disconected after 2 seconds nothing happend but if I left the bridge in the mil light flashed continuing to give me codes,should this happen like this? should it give codes without the engine running? has some of the things the mechanic tried caused it to give out false codes?
Any help ,ideas much appreciated (if I havent put you to sleep yet with my ramblings) as not having the old girl going is causing me major grief !!
 
no smoke,

sounds to me like and air leak...

or battery terminal.. the crack.. all electrics work but not enough to start.. ( download section for that )

code reading then that section too
 
is it fly by wire pump or mechanical if fly by wire you will have no choice but to go to a Nissan dealer and get it hooked up to the diagnostic computer, if mechanical and you have fuel at the pump then the stop solenoid needs checking, Rick
 
I have checked batery terminals and they are ok, I will inspect the fuel pipes more thoroughly and replace fuel filter (I didnt do this straight away as i thought with fuel getting to pump i would look at other possabilities but I guess it makes sense)
I am no mechanic but can perform straight forward checks.
 
i had simular problem few weeks back turned out the injector was blocked, cleared it been running fine since,
 
is it fly by wire pump or mechanical if fly by wire you will have no choice but to go to a Nissan dealer and get it hooked up to the diagnostic computer, if mechanical and you have fuel at the pump then the stop solenoid needs checking, Rick

It is fly by wire with bosch fuel system.
 
It is fly by wire with bosch fuel system.

then you have no choice but to go to Nissan, as it could be the pump but also could be the brain, both expensive, looking at lots of dosh here, I had a range rover with fly by wire cost me £1000.00 for a pump which I fitted myself ran like a bag of bones, had to take it to dealer to "set the pump up" another £70, got shot straight away, Rick
 
Abit extreme Rick, I am pretty sure Bullseye's problem will be fairly simple and not hugely expensive!
 
check your codes. 160+k miles, id be looking at your CKP sensor.
 
check your codes. 160+k miles, id be looking at your CKP sensor.

I think the codes may not be accurate as mechanic has tried various things possibly causing false codes CKP sensor is something I need to explore I am trying to work through a list Timbo has sent but have had very little time to get at it this weekend.
 
I think the codes may not be accurate as mechanic has tried various things possibly causing false codes CKP sensor is something I need to explore I am trying to work through a list Timbo has sent but have had very little time to get at it this weekend.

aye, remove CKP and clean it at least, see if that makes any difference, dont pin your hopes on it but its worth a shot.
 
Definately remove the CPS / CKS and clean the nib of clutch dust etc, well and check the nib is still there- i've known them get broken off by stray ring gear teeth etc.

Testing wise at the connector- during cranking you want 1.5v AC at least.

You say the tacho needle is dancing about during cranking- this is not normal and could point to a problem with the CPS.

Tim..
 
What a relief !!!!
CPS removed and cleaned and hey presto ! :thumb2
After 7 weeks in a coma back to life.
Intercooler off replaced leaking injector leak-off pipe and way to go.
Thanks to all for help and advice.
I know its becoming a cliche, but "the best tenner ever spent"
 
Definately remove the CPS / CKS and clean the nib of clutch dust etc, well and check the nib is still there- i've known them get broken off by stray ring gear teeth etc.

Testing wise at the connector- during cranking you want 1.5v AC at least.

You say the tacho needle is dancing about during cranking- this is not normal and could point to a problem with the CPS.

Tim..

for we uninitiates ..... can you explain CPS/CKS and any abbreviations used ... ta ..................... rex
 
for we uninitiates ..... can you explain CPS/CKS and any abbreviations used ... ta ..................... rex
CPS/CKS Crankshaft position sensor... A coil wound around a magnet held in close proximity to gear like teeth attached to the crankshaft.

These sensors can suffer from a couple of issues, although not that common but when they do "die" it's difficult to determine with any degree of certainty.
Typically the magnet loses permeability with age, this is exacerbated when hot. So the symptoms of starting ok then failing latterly when everything is nicely warmed up etc....
None of this is helped by the fact that Nissan require huge amounts of your beer money for a new one.
 
What a relief !!!!
CPS removed and cleaned and hey presto ! :thumb2
After 7 weeks in a coma back to life.
Intercooler off replaced leaking injector leak-off pipe and way to go.
Thanks to all for help and advice.
I know its becoming a cliche, but "the best tenner ever spent"


so a few quid saved again..
 

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