Terrano 2.4 petrol starting

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Few more scotches down the line, and I cannot imagine that the lack of temperature sensor will be the cause of your problem, look at my earlier post re fuel pump, Rick
 
Yeah
I managed to reconnect it

It started with or without it plugged in

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Theres a whole body on ebay
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Does anyone have just the maf for a petrol for sale??

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Yes I have a petrol MAF but again doubt it will be the cause of your problem, given your symptoms, £10 plus post if you want it, Rick
 
If I do have to run a manual switch for the fuel pump . How would that work.

So I'd switch in on for a few seconds.
Then off.
Then I'd have to quickly flick it on again after turning the key . Then leave it on ??

Or just turn it on and leave it on.????

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I do have to wonder about the in tank fuel pump, when ignition is first turned on the pump runs for a second or two then stops until you start cranking when it then runs again, if that part of the sequence fails then the engine will fire on the fuel in the rail then stop as it is not being replenished, if you suspect this could be happening then a simple matter to put a direct live to the pump via a switch, if that cures the problem then ECU to pump wiring problems, but may not be easy to find and cure, could even be an ignition switch fault, we all know they can get temperamental with age, Rick


Would a problem with the fuel pump relay cause this?


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Would a problem with the fuel pump relay cause this?


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Yes it would, and re manual over ride linking into the pump relay will be the easiest way to do it, providing the relay is good, Rick
 
Ok. So changed the spark plugs.
And the old ones are Audi one !!!
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Is your ignition coil inside the distributor? My 2.4 is, it threw me at first glance as something looked odd then I realised there are only 4 leads coming out of the cap! I had a starting issue some years back (ironically in the motor factors car park) and never found out what the cause was then the truck was parked up and sat for several years so not pursued. I started to wonder about the coil or sensor breaking down through the hot & cold cycling but did not investigate further.

I had the distributor apart last year for inspection with a view to replacing the cap, rotor arm, leads and plugs to pre-empt the starting issue but the truck ran fine for a year and replacements were not easily available locally so I just cleaned everything and left them alone. The rotor arm and cap are eaten away as expected through age but the truck ran a little better for the cleaning.

The leads are worth changing as they break down internally as mentioned above and can play havoc with electronics. The little Fiesta 1.3 Encore I was using prior to the truck needed new leads, I started it up in the dark and they were glowing internally quite impressively. The glow reminded me of coming in to land at an airport at night and seeing rows of cars on a motorway from a height!
 
I've now changed the spark plugs. Dizzy cap, ht leads and rotor arm.

I'll let you know if it makes a difference
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I've now changed the spark plugs. Dizzy cap, ht leads and rotor arm.

I'll let you know if it makes a difference
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What a score!!!! Where did you get those from you sly fox :naughty :bow
 
Theres a person on the Nissan Bluebird owners page who buys and sell new old stock Nissan parts

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Not sure ,because the problem is intermittent.
But it's not happened again so far.

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UPDATE
I've not had it not start on me.

It starts from cold everytime.

From warm or lots of stop start journeys it starts every time. It some times goes to die . Ie the revs drop to almost nothing. But catches before it dies and slowly come up to idle speed.
To avoid this, when warm , I just give the accelerator a little blip as I start it and it just starts fine . ( if I did this when cold it wont start)

So now if warm I just always give the accelerator a little kick and I've had no problems.


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