Terrano 2.4 petrol starting
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blackbird
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It's not sorted out the starting problem
Happened again today
Started cold this morning with no issues
Drove to work. About 40 mins
Started at work tonight with no issues. Drove for 40 minutes
I was in a shop for 30 minutes. Came out ant started and died straight away.
Started and revs dropped off and died
Did this 5 times. Then started with no issue.
I
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macabethiel
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Not original.Old filter
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blackbird
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Looks very clean
It's like something gets hot and it doesn't like it
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Coil pack comes to mind but do not have one to check, also check all earth connections to the block there are many small ones and down by the steering shaft is a larger one that I found giving problems when welding, Rick
macabethiel
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Where to look next ?
Okay so its fair to say there was some improvement when the fuel filter was changed - that would keep me looking at fueling issue provided I have eliminated stuff like plug leads (if it has any)- if you have individual coil packs then maybe one has started to break down.
I had a coil pack issue on our Mercedes that started off as a cold misfire that would clear once the engine was warmer. On the day it went for it's MoT it failed on emissions due to the misfire. One new coil pack as sorted it - the other 7 are still original. I understand some coil packs can quite easily be damaged with mishandling.
Next in the fueling issue I would be looking at the fuel pump it has been trying to deliver fuel through a well blocked filter so it may be in poor shape. What about the actual fuel pipe from the filter to wherever it feeds could that be in poor condition inside - again causing excessive resistance - flattening inside when warm ?
Okay so its fair to say there was some improvement when the fuel filter was changed - that would keep me looking at fueling issue provided I have eliminated stuff like plug leads (if it has any)- if you have individual coil packs then maybe one has started to break down.
I had a coil pack issue on our Mercedes that started off as a cold misfire that would clear once the engine was warmer. On the day it went for it's MoT it failed on emissions due to the misfire. One new coil pack as sorted it - the other 7 are still original. I understand some coil packs can quite easily be damaged with mishandling.
Next in the fueling issue I would be looking at the fuel pump it has been trying to deliver fuel through a well blocked filter so it may be in poor shape. What about the actual fuel pipe from the filter to wherever it feeds could that be in poor condition inside - again causing excessive resistance - flattening inside when warm ?
blackbird
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I've got new leads and plugs on order.
I'll try that next
Then maybe look at the MAF
It has a single coil.
The egr is fine I've checked that
What's odd is that its running fine .
And once started causes no issues
Today after getting to work I turned it off and restarted it when hot
It started up 5 times in a row with no issues.
Tonight when I get home I'll leave it 30 mins and go out and restart it.
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I'll try that next
Then maybe look at the MAF
It has a single coil.
The egr is fine I've checked that
What's odd is that its running fine .
And once started causes no issues
Today after getting to work I turned it off and restarted it when hot
It started up 5 times in a row with no issues.
Tonight when I get home I'll leave it 30 mins and go out and restart it.
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macabethiel
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I follow your logic
I agree with your logic - it is strange but plug leads especially if they are the modern carbon type can give some strange intermittent problems - stuff like when cold and vehicle has stood overnight they absorb condensation - causes poor starting & misfires that go when the engine is warmer as moisture has evaporated with engine heat - hence why we often spray the leads with WD 40. The same leads can then when they get very hot after a run cause later hot start issues- then the engine stands for a few minutes - they get floppy hot causing the carbon coated string like core to flop - breaking the plug connection or giving it a big gap to jump.
Don't forget the usually flimsy LT connections to the coil - they do get corroded with age and connectors start to break a few strands. I loved the old Mercedes W124 series LT leads they were the same diameter as HT leads with huge plug-in connectors - well overdesigned - no didy spades terminals!
I like the old fashioned copper core plug leads but they play havoc radio & TV interference. !
I agree with your logic - it is strange but plug leads especially if they are the modern carbon type can give some strange intermittent problems - stuff like when cold and vehicle has stood overnight they absorb condensation - causes poor starting & misfires that go when the engine is warmer as moisture has evaporated with engine heat - hence why we often spray the leads with WD 40. The same leads can then when they get very hot after a run cause later hot start issues- then the engine stands for a few minutes - they get floppy hot causing the carbon coated string like core to flop - breaking the plug connection or giving it a big gap to jump.
Don't forget the usually flimsy LT connections to the coil - they do get corroded with age and connectors start to break a few strands. I loved the old Mercedes W124 series LT leads they were the same diameter as HT leads with huge plug-in connectors - well overdesigned - no didy spades terminals!
I like the old fashioned copper core plug leads but they play havoc radio & TV interference. !
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I do have to wonder about the in tank fuel pump, when ignition is first turned on the pump runs for a second or two then stops until you start cranking when it then runs again, if that part of the sequence fails then the engine will fire on the fuel in the rail then stop as it is not being replenished, if you suspect this could be happening then a simple matter to put a direct live to the pump via a switch, if that cures the problem then ECU to pump wiring problems, but may not be easy to find and cure, could even be an ignition switch fault, we all know they can get temperamental with age, Rick
blackbird
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So today I tried a bluetooth OBD with a Nissan consult adapter.
With some apps to read the ECU.
It would connent but wouldn't work.
But....
The engine management light flashed
So I did the flash code thing ( previous owner had finished a switch to not have to short the pins)
And I got code 41
https://youtu.be/KTYJzzo9gkM
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With some apps to read the ECU.
It would connent but wouldn't work.
But....
The engine management light flashed
So I did the flash code thing ( previous owner had finished a switch to not have to short the pins)
And I got code 41
https://youtu.be/KTYJzzo9gkM
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That connector is not the MAF but one of the solenoids on the throttle body or more likely the diode in the plenum chamber which is the air intake temperature sensor, Rick
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Have you managed to reconnect the black wire? from those pics I cannot identify the connector in question, not having a 2.4 here to compare with, and it can be confusing as one or two of the 2 pin connectors on the throttle body are not in fact used, the ones I can remember are EGR vac valve, Choke and temperature sensor, Rick
