Tailgate Interior Handle

Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum

Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jims-terrano

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2004
Messages
12,956
Hi All, has anyone got access to take pictures of the interior door handle mechanism for the tailgate on the earlier Terrano please. Thinking about adding this feature to the later truck. I've got the interior panel off the tailgate at the moment and I can't workout how the handle works on the earlier models.

Cheers
 
Bother, I have been doing some major rewiring on mine over the last couple of days and had the entire N/S trim of the car off, and the boot panel. Spent today putting it all back together.

Ironically, I was looking at the handle, as it was in the way, but didn't take any pictures.

All I can tell you that the handle uses a remote cable that runs down a sleeve, and connects somewhere down onto the actual door lock, and the locking button is a wire rod that goes straight down to the lock.

Hopefully Rick can get some pictures from one his scrappers.
 
That's a point, Rick might have the bits for the conversion too:thumbs

Rick:augie
 
will have a look and take pics tomorrow, but we have a 260 tonne transformer hopefully going past our drive tomorrow and I want look see, Rick
 
That's one heck of a transformer Rick.

Rick no hurry with the photos but when you do could you drop me a pm with cost of the bits to do it please.

Cheers.
 
This is it, have to see it, Rick
 

Attachments

  • 18920335_1684380321870063_7614227273871635961_n.jpg
    18920335_1684380321870063_7614227273871635961_n.jpg
    63.6 KB
It's like the fun fair is coming to town:lol

Yeah you can't miss that Rick:thumbs
 
Bit of a let down re the over-sized load, pic shows two 18 axle bogies, whereas today's load was on two 9 axle bogies, impressive nonetheless.

now back to the thread, here is a pic of the cable that operates the tail gate lock, it is quite long but cannot remember the route it took, next pic show's just how long
 

Attachments

  • DSCN4834.jpg
    DSCN4834.jpg
    79.9 KB
This is on my off road motor so to be able to open the door from the inside should the need arise I hooked the inner cable to a hole in the door so just grabbing the outer and pulling does the job, did not have time to remove the rear door card on another scrapper to see the route, if you need that info just shout, Rick
 

Attachments

  • DSCN4835.jpg
    DSCN4835.jpg
    82.6 KB
Cheers Rick, my word you do have a long one:doh That cable is a lot longer than I expected. How does it connect to the lock mechanism inside the tailgate? I'd really like to try this mod as I'll find it useful? Think I'll try and take a couple of photos of the inside of the tailgate showing the back of the outer handle and lock mechanism to see how they compare.
 
I found this picture I took of mine when I was repairing the "squeak"...

I wonder if there are different inside handles, depending on the year, as my flexy cable is nowhere near as long as the one Rick showed, unless that is it curling round in the void under the handle.

DSC_1844_zpsb472d86d.jpg
 
Great photo LF :thumbs

That settles where the inner release handle is which is one tick.

Now I need to find out what the other end of the cable is connected to.

Shopping list so far appears to be the inner handle and cable along with the handle trim that fits into the tailgate door card.


By the way the 3 vertical lines of spot welds that cause the squeak, is it all of them or just one line of welds. As a preventive measure I've drilled and bolted the left hand line in two places.

Thanks guys
 
Great photo LF :thumbs

That settles where the inner release handle is which is one tick.

Now I need to find out what the other end of the cable is connected to.

Shopping list so far appears to be the inner handle and cable along with the handle trim that fits into the tailgate door card.


By the way the 3 vertical lines of spot welds that cause the squeak, is it all of them or just one line of welds. As a preventive measure I've drilled and bolted the left hand line in two places.

Thanks guys

You will also need the lock button, and trim, you can see it leaning over with the orange dot on it on the left of the picture.

I think the welds depend on the tail gate, I am guessing that the welds go when someone has reversed up to something, and donked the spare. That is what I did, I did not see the post in the middle of the back of the parking space, about a foot away from the fence, and rolled back into it. It was just high enough to reach the bottom of the spare wheel. To start with I thought there was no damage, but then the squeak started.

I could clearly see the welds that had gone, so it was easy to repair those, but decided to do a few more just to make sure.

The very bottom 2, where the door curves under were my culprits
DSC_1847_zps860fee95.jpg


So I ended up doing this..
DSC_1850_zps00846100.jpg


Notice the extra pop rivet further up the door as well, that weld had gone.
 
Neat job, looks stronger than the original.:thumb2

One piece of advice, fitting screws, bolts, pop rivets will involve drilling, which will create swarf and if left, will of course rust and encourage rust in the door panel.

So a couple of choices, collect it first with a rag, hoover it out etc, but you are bound to leave some behind, so... out with the waxoyl, coat the swarf and paintwork in waxoyl, and that should prevent any further problems, and the waxoyl will adhere the swarf to the waxoyl.

Hope it helps,
Rustic
 
Neat job, looks stronger than the original.:thumb2

One piece of advice, fitting screws, bolts, pop rivets will involve drilling, which will create swarf and if left, will of course rust and encourage rust in the door panel.

So a couple of choices, collect it first with a rag, hoover it out etc, but you are bound to leave some behind, so... out with the waxoyl, coat the swarf and paintwork in waxoyl, and that should prevent any further problems, and the waxoyl will adhere the swarf to the waxoyl.

Hope it helps,
Rustic

Good plan...

I have a powerful flat magnet out of an old Hard Disk Drive, mounted on a thin fibre glass kite strut. I put the magnet in a tiny ziplock bag that I save whenever I get things in them, and then run that all around where I have drilled/cut. When it has picked up the metal, you take the magnet out of the bag, as you turn it inside out, and all the metal filings end up in the bag, and the magnet is still clean.

I used Waxoil for the first time the other week, and will be using it more from now on, but up till then, I used WD40 to do the same sort of thing.
 
Thanks for the advice as always guys. Had some spray underseal so sprayed inside the bottom of the tailgate cavity after vacuuming all the bits out. Have tried to add a photo to this post but unfortunately it keeps posting the photo upside down:doh will have to fire the laptop up later.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top