T2 Starting problem.

[Midlander]

I've recently bought a '99 T2 Deisel.
The other day I went to start it as usual...procedure as follows.

Press black button on fob...Doors unlock, indicators flash twice.

Key in ignition, turn to start...... click from behind dash (i think), Clock display goes out no lights on dash.

Key off, Back on...Dash lights as normal, click behind dash again, but clock has now been reset to 1.00 o'clock. Glow plug light times out, engine starts..........However, I have got to this stage and sometimes engine will not start until i remove the key and try again, or lock and unlock the car with fob and go through the procedure again.

any ideas?....
I'm hoping it's just the batteries in the fob dying and changing / reprogging the fob will sort it, but the no dash light / clock reset thing is a bit worrying.

 

[supergnome]

Sounds like battery connections, start with them, a common problem. Does trip meter zero each time you take the key out if so look at fuse 10Amp. hope this helps , if not many others will soon be on to help you. David

 

[Midlander]

Thanks for reply,

Oddometer & Trip meter are the old fashioned mechanical type.

I did look at the Battery terminal and TBH it looks an odd arrangement. It seems like it's in two parts. with the Clamp on the terminal post and another part which appears to be bolted or attached to that in some way.

The nuts are all tight on both the battery post and the other part although i can get some movement between the terminal post bit and the second part where the big wire and a smaller one are attached, so did wonder if this was causing the Clock / Dash to go out.

What is likely to happen if i disconnect the battery and re-jig the terminal so that there is only one connection.. effectively i'll be powering the whole thing down by disconnecting the battery will the truck just start normally afterwards?

 

[clivvy]

if you disconnect the battery, make sure you leave your doors OPEN.

this could be the NATS system playing up.

I would also closely inspect those clamps, the cables could be corroded underneath where you can see, and the clamps can crack at the join, also check the earth wires that run by the relays near the battery, sometimes it rubs on the chassis and you cant see the corrosion underneath. Also check the other smaller earth wires that run to the drivers side of the engine block, near to the sensors.

 

[Midlander]

Right....Update.......

Have disconnected the battery & removed the +ve Clamp, Which had, as you suggested, Cracked. The top half being completely separate from the main part where the wires attach leaving a little movement.

So I Squashed the remaining part of the terminal clamp flat where the wires connect. I then Cleaned it all up and reconnected the wires, and......

Ta Da....(Fingers Crossed Smiley) all seems good.

Reset the clock, sorted the stereo as it went into demo mode, Played with the doors (fob), Started it, turned it off...seems back to normal.

Gonna leave it an hour and check again, but so far , so good...

So Big thaks to you Both. :thumbs

 

[clivvy]

Right....Update.......

Have disconnected the battery & removed the +ve Clamp, Which had, as you suggested, Cracked. The top half being completely separate from the main part where the wires attach leaving a little movement.

So I Squashed the remaining part of the terminal clamp flat where the wires connect. I then Cleaned it all up and reconnected the wires, and......

Ta Da....(Fingers Crossed Smiley) all seems good.

Reset the clock, sorted the stereo as it went into demo mode, Played with the doors (fob), Started it, turned it off...seems back to normal.

Gonna leave it an hour and check again, but so far , so good...

So Big thaks to you Both. :thumbs

awesome, well done mate! over time, vibration will loosen the join, but new clamps are cheap, so its an easy fix!:thumb2

 

[zippy656]

where is Briggie??

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/downloads/workshop/wk12.pdf

this is the place to look for battery terminals.. did mine few months back..

 

[Midlander]

Nuvva Update.......

I have now changed the Battery terminals for those as in the Download.

All nice and solid now.

Big thanks to everyone on here for pointing the way...Hope to return the favour :thumbs

Fitting a Set of Milners Rear springs tomorrow too.

 

[Midlander]

Yet another update......

Have now fitted the new springs From Milner off road. (Standard height but +20% Stiffer) as the Truck was sagging on the passenger side on flat ground at the rear by half an inch. Also with a load of kit in the back the rear end seemed to sag making the steering a bit on the light side with a tendency to want to wander.

New springs fitted, Ride height Checked...Both sides equal at the rear.
Looked at the Torsion bars on the front. Found that the ride height on Near side was lower than the off side so have adjusted to level things up.

Front ride height is approx 2-3cm lower than the rear with the sills levelish on flat ground.

Took it for a spin, All seems good, Ride is noticeably better.

 

[glen]

company on the web

Below is a site I used for Terminals with posts

E C S

(Electrical car services) only took a couple of days to deliver they sell everything 12 volt on the Web. Worth a look when you need anything 12 volt

Glen

 

[Midlander]

Below is a site I used for Terminals with posts

E C S

(Electrical car services) only took a couple of days to deliver they sell everything 12 volt on the Web. Worth a look when you need anything 12 volt

Glen

Got mine off EBAY....