T2 MAF wanted!

[Timbo_1975]

Hello all...

Am in need of a new, geunine bosch MAF for the 2.7TDi if anyone has one on the shelf they want to sell?

Reason- mine has just started to play up - the usual sudden no power at all syndrome, but okay for abit after cycling the ignition...

 

[lacroupade]

Not that expensive in some dealers I believe - I take it you've sprayed it with carb cleaner?

 

[Timbo_1975]

I've been carefully cleaning it with carb cleaner at every oil change, and at 75k miles, it is still original, but death is imminent I fear!

 

[lacroupade]

Interesting cos touchwood I've never had a MAF problem in more than quarter of a million miles on three trucks, but then I've never touched it either :augie

Mind you, one was a Hitachi.

 

[BigBlack]

Last one I bought was about £95.00 from a main dealers, that was for a 2001 T2 with 68k on the clock.

You sure your MAF is on the way out though, I found it went all at once so to speak... no power, wouldnt rev over 3000 revs, no pullin power... not coming in and going????

What sort of air filter you got fitted? I found using the cheapo ones from PartCo made my MAF play up.... i.e. boot motor and it would hessitate and stutter... changed to a genuine Nissan one and problem went! :thumbs

 

[BigBlack]

Oh, also Thornton 4x4 Breakers in Bradford are breaking a 2003 T2 - they might have one, but I would go for the main dealers and get 12-months warrenty with it :thumb2

 

[lacroupade]

Hello all...

Am in need of a new, geunine bosch MAF for the 2.7TDi if anyone has one on the shelf they want to sell?

Reason- mine has just started to play up - the usual sudden no power at all syndrome, but okay for abit after cycling the ignition...

Not sure those symptoms are quite right for a knackered MAF....cycling the ignition shouldn't make any difference to a bit of burnt or contaminated wire.....

 

[ocelot]

if you remember, my T2 had the same problems as those described, doing the ignition thing sorted it out, but when I cleaned it with asda's version of WD40, it worked, hasn't missed a beat since either.
Mind you, I do carry a spare...........

 

[lacroupade]

if you remember, my T2 had the same problems as those described, doing the ignition thing sorted it out, but when I cleaned it with asda's version of WD40, it worked, hasn't missed a beat since either.
Mind you, I do carry a spare...........

ah the joys of vehicle diagnostics :doh :lol

 

[Timbo_1975]

Not sure those symptoms are quite right for a knackered MAF....cycling the ignition shouldn't make any difference to a bit of burnt or contaminated wire.....

Burnt out no, contaminanted, or out of range of what the ECU expects to see until the ignition is cycled - yes.

 

[lacroupade]

Burnt out no, contaminanted, or out of range of what the ECU expects to see until the ignition is cycled - yes.

Well interesting debate, cos of course all the MAF is, as I'm sure you know, is a piece of heated wire and the airflow over it changes the temperature and thus the resistance, and its the resistance that I'm sure is fed to the ECU which then decides, in conjunction with readings from elsewhere about engine temp etc.., how much fuel to squirt in.

Im not saying the MAF isn't part of the problem but I'd be really interested to understand how as it puzzles me...and I HATE puzzles! LOL

For example, could be something to do with automatic choke or some other cold starting mechanism....I've noticed that if you try to start the engine and it fails first time , on mine anyway, unless you turn the key right back to the O position and start again, you can keep trying all day and it won't start, so that clearly resets something....

 

[wildbri]

If you dont turn the key to off, the heaters dont come on, so thats why it wont start.... or
so I believe, regards bri

 

[lacroupade]

If you dont turn the key to off, the heaters dont come on, so thats why it wont start.... or
so I believe, regards bri

The glow plugs you mean? Ah that would make sense.

 

[Timbo_1975]

Well interesting debate, cos of course all the MAF is, as I'm sure you know, is a piece of heated wire and the airflow over it changes the temperature and thus the resistance, and its the resistance that I'm sure is fed to the ECU which then decides, in conjunction with readings from elsewhere about engine temp etc.., how much fuel to squirt in.

Im not saying the MAF isn't part of the problem but I'd be really interested to understand how as it puzzles me...and I HATE puzzles! LOL

For example, could be something to do with automatic choke or some other cold starting mechanism....I've noticed that if you try to start the engine and it fails first time , on mine anyway, unless you turn the key right back to the O position and start again, you can keep trying all day and it won't start, so that clearly resets something....

Mine is exactly the same!! Just occasionally it doesnt fire at all, and you can crank all day and nothing. Cycling the ignition completely, and it then starts as normal.

Anyhow, the MAF is only there to give a load signal to the ECU, no more, no less. The ECU looks at the throttle pedal position, and the MAF. It then calculates those against engine speed to give the fuel quantity required.

Think of a see-saw with ever changing weights on each end, and the ecu moving the balance point to keep the see-saw level.

 

[lacroupade]

Mine is exactly the same!! Just occasionally it doesnt fire at all, and you can crank all day and nothing. Cycling the ignition completely, and it then starts as normal.

Anyhow, the MAF is only there to give a load signal to the ECU, no more, no less. The ECU looks at the throttle pedal position, and the MAF. It then calculates those against engine speed to give the fuel quantity required.

Think of a see-saw with ever changing weights on each end, and the ecu moving the balance point to keep the see-saw level.

Not quite sure what you mean by a 'load signal' Timbo?

 

[Timbo_1975]

Not quite sure what you mean by a 'load signal' Timbo?

Load- how much load the engine is under.

 

[lacroupade]

Load- how much load the engine is under.

I see what you're getting at - and I suppose its right indirectly, but whats its actually measuring is the volume of O2 going in - that will vary according to air temperature.

So if I'm hauling a trailer uphill, the engine load will be a constant, but in colder (denser) air, more O2 will be sucked in, along with more fuel (as the ECU recognises the fact), thus providing more power.....are we saying the same thing here?

 

[Timbo_1975]

Yes we are. The ECU compensates against air temp via the ATS within the MAF, but it is self regulating really. You would need to apply abit more throttle to acheive the same power output at 25degC against 15degC, as the bloody thing is really very primative, and as we all know, very underfuelled generally.

 

[lacroupade]

Yes we are. The ECU compensates against air temp via the ATS within the MAF, but it is self regulating really. You would need to apply abit more throttle to acheive the same power output at 25degC against 15degC, as the bloody thing is really very primative, and as we all know, very underfuelled generally.

don't say that, I pour enough if the bloody stuff into it as it is! :lol

 

[Nisstay]

MAF wanted

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-TERRAN...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2ea9d9faf4

i got one from this supplier ... some charge more just for the electrical insert . this one comes complete with bosch housing