SVO WVO DIESEL Heater Exchanger Kit- before Inj.-pump

[zippy656]

mmmm very true, whats elbow grease made from??

 

[iceman]

the reason i went for this cheap item was i did a lot of reading on here up until know i had a general idea and understood the theory of what and what to do until daved and briggie started about p=i x v or i=v x r and s=ut+1/2at(squared) then the ohm's triangle i nearly lost the will to live as i only asked the measurement of connectors lol.


the reason i never entertained the idea of using SVO until know is because living just 10 miles from the border of ireland i was getting cheap diesal anyway then i found the offer bogof and posted the offer here and went the whole hog 100% PVO at 42p a litre and was amazed at the performance and how quiet the engine is, when reading the threads reference PVO it become apparent that the common remarks on this issue was cold weather starting and what % was best or go back to diesel in the winter, i notice your post daved here "CLICK HERE" so i went and bought one myself.

i have a second battery installed with it's own fuse box and isolator switch which tbh it has been a savior when i left lights on by accident or the cold morning have tested my main battery so backup is already fitted, i have a component mechanic and a electrician who help me play around with the jeep.

 

[Deleted account DD]

the reason i went for this cheap item was i did a lot of reading on here up until know i had a general idea and understood the theory of what and what to do until daved and briggie started about p=i x v or i=v x r and s=ut+1/2at(squared) then the ohm's triangle i nearly lost the will to live as i only asked the measurement of connectors lol.


the reason i never entertained the idea of using SVO until know is because living just 10 miles from the border of ireland i was getting cheap diesal anyway then i found the offer bogof and posted the offer here and went the whole hog 100% PVO at 42p a litre and was amazed at the performance and how quiet the engine is, when reading the threads reference PVO it become apparent that the common remarks on this issue was cold weather starting and what % was best or go back to diesel in the winter, i notice your post daved here "CLICK HERE" so i went and bought one myself.

i have a second battery installed with it's own fuse box and isolator switch which tbh it has been a savior when i left lights on by accident or the cold morning have tested my main battery so backup is already fitted, i have a component mechanic and a electrician who help me play around with the jeep.

I agree with you 100%+, unfortunately you missed another thread where I was stuck about the glow plugs knacking up but that was dealt with.

For what its worth I reckon your theory and your purchase are bang on, especially as youve got "spare leccy" on board :thumb2:thumb2:thumb2

If youve got a friendly electrician do you still need the circuit diagram and I certainly wont insult his intelligence by quoting fuse and wire capacities :thumb2

 

[rayf3262]

Cautionary note for ZD30 engines

Anyone thinking of fitting a fuel/SVO heater to a ZD30 engine....

The VP44 type pump on the 3.0L engine has a fair amount of embedded electronics in it.
This electronics relies on the fuel flow to keep the pump body at a reasonable temperature, it has its own return fuel line back to the tank.
Clearly if we start providing the pump with fuel at circa 70 deg C it wont do much by way of cooling!

Most of the reported failures of the VP44 type pumps seem to be the EDC (electronic control unit) failing through overheating, often due to lack of fuel circulation caused by inadequate pump or partially blocked filters.

 

[Deleted account DD]

Ahhh....thanks Rayf, thats maybe where I picked up on the 3litre not being suitable as opposed to the common rail theory :thumb2 tbh as mine was a 2.7 I never took much notice, worth noting though

 

[rayf3262]

Ahhh....thanks Rayf, thats maybe where I picked up on the 3litre not being suitable as opposed to the common rail theory :thumb2 tbh as mine was a 2.7 I never took much notice, worth noting though

I THINK the 2.7L pump should be ok.
Although its electronically controlled, most of the work is done by the ECU/ECM.
The parts in this pump are more electric in nature, coils/solenoids etc... they should survive ok.

 

[Deleted account DD]

I THINK the 2.7L pump should be ok.
Although its electronically controlled, most of the work is done by the ECU/ECM.
The parts in this pump are more electric in nature, coils/solenoids etc... they should survive ok.

Does the 2.7 pump rely on liquid cooling too?

I would have thought the ambient temp in that area and the metalwork would easily hit 70c anyway :nenau

 

[rayf3262]

Does the 2.7 pump rely on liquid cooling too?

I would have thought the ambient temp in that area and the metalwork would easily hit 70c anyway :nenau

Well it does have its own fuel return, but it looks as though all the components in the 2.7L pump are passive; glorified stepper motor etc. so IMHO it should be fine,.. but I'd consider keeping it nearer 60 deg C.
Don't want to cook any of the windings in there to much!


The 3.0L pump has a LOT of electronics in it, in fact its controlled by CAN bus!

 

[Terranoman]

If I installed a pre heater just to get running on a cold day it could then be turned off thus not causing a problem on the over heating side? Correct Yes / NO?

 

[lacroupade]

If I installed a pre heater just to get running on a cold day it could then be turned off thus not causing a problem on the over heating side? Correct Yes / NO?

If it was on its own switch but still wired through a relay to the ignition.....:nenau

 

[Deleted account DD]

If I installed a pre heater just to get running on a cold day it could then be turned off thus not causing a problem on the over heating side? Correct Yes / NO?

Just wire a simple switch in series with the relay ignition trigger wire then whatever else is going on you can isolate it and stop it coming on :thumb2:thumb2

good scheme and very easily done, When I did mine I used an illuminated switch so even in my doziest moments it told me what was going on :doh

 

[lacroupade]

Just wire a simple switch in series with the relay ignition trigger wire then whatever else is going on you can isolate it and stop it coming on :thumb2:thumb2

good scheme and very easily done, When I did mine I used an illuminated switch so even in my doziest moments it told me what was going on :doh

Did you know Ditchmeister that when you search 'images' on Google theres hardly any pictures of The Man With a Stick????

 

[iceman]

fantastic answers :clap, daved yes a wee diagram be great if possible you not insult my leccy he's my best friend but a utter loony never understand how he ever was trusted with live wires lol.

like i said before i will be putting a cut off switch but now i will be changing from a basic one to a "illuminated switch" (wonder where i got that idea from ).

just looking at the heater picture, i'm i right in thinking that it will be circulating at 70° Celsius that it will putting hot oil back into the tank which should warm up the oil up there also until it switches off.

 

[solarman216]

just looking at the heater picture, i'm i right in thinking that it will be circulating at 70° Celsius that it will putting hot oil back into the tank which should warm up the oil up there also until it switches off.[/QUOTE]

Yup, bit of a wast of alternator power don't you think, and all that extra heat in the tank will make it sweat more, so drain the water trap more often, Rick

 

[rayf3262]

If I installed a pre heater just to get running on a cold day it could then be turned off thus not causing a problem on the over heating side? Correct Yes / NO?

Yes, I would think you would be ok with that, esp. if the ambient temp. is low.:thumb2
If you want to go posh stick a timer on it:
http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=3315

 

[Trigsbroom]

I used one of those glow plug heaters a year or so ago and found it completely useless and unreliable. This type on the other hand http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FLAT-PLATE-HE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c12de7542 is excellent. Obviously it needs the engine to warm up before it can heat the oil, but it is extremely efficient, simple and cannot fail to work.

 

[Deleted account DD]

I used one of those glow plug heaters a year or so ago and found it completely useless and unreliable. This type on the other hand http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FLAT-PLATE-HE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c12de7542 is excellent. Obviously it needs the engine to warm up before it can heat the oil, but it is extremely efficient, simple and cannot fail to work.

Good point but if you read earlier posts and elsewhere :

1. The glow plug heater is designed to supplement a more robust heat exchange system, not work solo although it can manage it.
2. That one youve shown is a bit of a bargain. Cheap but still twice the price of a glow plug heater for those of us on a budget.(aka car slush fund :augie)
3. Running a water only heater doesnt get rid of cold start up problems and can actually make them worse depending on where in the circuit you plumb it in.

All part of the bigger picture :thumb2 either device will achieve something, running one without the other is like twit without twat, little without large.

Interestingly you dont say why the glow plug one was unreliable and useless...........:nenau Have you tried the heat exchanger solo

 

[Deleted account DD]

Just for clarity, those flat plate thingys are also intended to be used in a twin tank system. Warm up on diesel then switch :thumb2 Thats what the other item , the solenoid valve, he's selling is for.

The general concensus is that is the best option.

 

[Trigsbroom]

I used the glow plug type heater for a while in conjunction with the heat exchanger. I hoped that the electrical unit would allow for quicker oil warm up from cold, and to be fair, it may have been a faulty unit, but it didn't seem to do the job. I had a light on the dash to show when the thing was switching on and off, and I often checked that it was working by feeling it with my hand, sometimes it was hot, sometimes it was stone cold even when the light was on, eventually, I just scrapped it after receiving no response from the manufacturers, I don't remember who they were, but I think it was a German firm. These units, if they work properly won't aid starting, they will only help to warm the oil up from cold quicker. The bottom line is that using 100% SVO or WVO, a twin tank system is essential in winter cos it ain't gonna start on veg oil, so my feeling is that once the engine is started, a heat exchanger is the best, simplest and most reliable route to go.

 

[Deleted account DD]

Interesting stuff and good to hear from someone who has actually tried it out.

Ironic you mention the german lot and crap customer service, if you see my earlier posts i suspect we've bought from the same person. If you had the tell tale light wired up across the glow plug and after the thermostat then it lit up whilst the block was cold, all that tells you is that it was getting power to the glow plug but the glow plug was knackered, it was a faulty unit and thats what I had to sort on mine, and did in the end :thumb2

The single electric heater does warm the oil and it sends it into pump thinner. Thats only half a job though. There are also systems with the same thing pre filter.

As I said earlier though and youve reiterated, twin tank is the best for all year round but its a chew.

I mixed diesel with oil in the colder spells and ran the heater with 100% svo the rest of the time.

No problems and the electric heater did make a noticeable difference I think the key here is that one on its own is not sufficient for all year round.