Soldering

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it is best to heat the joint to be soldered rather than melt solder on the iron and drop it onto the joint, but in real life you may just have to do whatever you can to make it work :thumb2
 
it is best to heat the joint to be soldered rather than melt solder on the iron and drop it onto the joint, but in real life you may just have to do whatever you can to make it work :thumb2

cheers plank!

actually, the soldering kit i bought had various tips, and one is along pin like thingy, perhaps that will work better with the recess situation, im having a go tomorrow night.
 
The worst you can do is cock it up, and it broken already so what have you got to lose? Just do your best! But if you get a chance practise on a few old bits of wiring and stuff first :thumb2
 
Guide to soldering.

Here is a guide to soldering:

http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm


OR just Google " How to solder"


Practice


Practice


Practice... as Plank says.... :thumb2 :thumb2

TIP
With electronic components, eg LED's, transistors, heat destroys them,
Use a heat sink, and keep the iron on as short a time as possible max 2 seconds...
If the component has lots of legs.... if you do them all sequentially, you may overheat the device, so either wait for it to cool, or move onto another component, then come back..
 
i concur with my learned collegues , its also a good idea to purchase a de soldering gun ,if you suspect you may not be very steady when working on pcbs , or if you need to remove a component , its basically a spring loaded tube which sorta sucks the solder up leaving a nice clean area ( hopefully ) to solder to , or if you accidently bridge a few tracks on a pcb , it can be a lifesaver for a few squids
 
i concur with my learned collegues , its also a good idea to purchase a de soldering gun ,if you suspect you may not be very steady when working on pcbs , or if you need to remove a component , its basically a spring loaded tube which sorta sucks the solder up leaving a nice clean area ( hopefully ) to solder to , or if you accidently bridge a few tracks on a pcb , it can be a lifesaver for a few squids

Yes, I have a couple of those with different sized heads. :thumb2
A friend of mine used de-solder wick, but I couldn't get to grips with that stuff. :confused:
1 It was expensive
2 by the time you applied enough heat to the wick, the track had lifted from the circuit board. :eek:

Maplins is a good source of equipment to buy over the counter, but can be a lot cheaper on ebay.
 
im not soldering pcbs, only a broken connection that is set within a small recess on a bulb holder, so no need for a de soldering device (used to have one a while back)
 
im not soldering pcbs, only a broken connection that is set within a small recess on a bulb holder, so no need for a de soldering device (used to have one a while back)

But these topics evolve for those people who want to do PCB repairs in the future, then every thing is in one thread. :thumb2

Who knows, you or other members may be repairing the speed control on the heater switch next, then you will be glad of this thread. :thumb2

Or maybe add some orange indicator LED's or white puddle lights which have recently been discussed on this site. :nenau
 
Yes, I have a couple of those with different sized heads. :thumb2
A friend of mine used de-solder wick, but I couldn't get to grips with that stuff. :confused:
1 It was expensive
2 by the time you applied enough heat to the wick, the track had lifted from the circuit board. :eek:

Maplins is a good source of equipment to buy over the counter, but can be a lot cheaper on ebay.

I have both, de-solder wick and solder suckers. I love the wick for working on circuit boards.
 
well, I did the job today and fixed the bulb connection. too quite a few attempts, and in the end i had to compact in a bit of solder, and melt a bit of plastic to hold it all down! not an untidy job, and its all working, so im happy!
 

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