Sluggish / Slow window mechanism

[Midlander]

The Leccy window on the front passenger door is really Sloooow to go back up after opening it.
Any tips on what to use or how to gee it up a bit?

 

[davenclaire]

im just in the process of replacing the rear regulator a tiny bit of plastic is brocken caused the wire to wrap around the winding gear.

gonne put some spray grease on the runners the wire runs onto help it (replacement from breaker) and while im at it spray the window rubber with furnature polish usually makes it good as new.

 

[jims-terrano]

Sounds like all you need is some silicone lubriacant. Anything with silicone such as furniture polish or silicone lubricant from local motor factors.

Wind windows all way down. Then spray it into the rubber channels:thumbs

They get worse on cold weather.

 

[zippy656]

Siicone is the thing you need
load to get then running free thenevery now and then to keep it up

 

[Midlander]

Cheers All will give it a go and let you know..

 

[briggie]

yep , furniture polish :thumb2

 

[Banshee]

Got to admit I had this problem and posted this same question and was recommended to use furniture polish and it helped for all of 2 weeks and now it's worse than ever

I wish there was a permanent fix for this, I wonder if the motor is going lazy??

 

[glanrichbex]

Years ago I was told to use a candle and rub it up and down the edges of the glass - works fine for about 6 months. :thumbs

Problem I have is that every so often the drivers window ceases in the closed position ( thank heavens ) but the only way to resolve it every few monthsis to remove the door panel, then remover the motor from the mechanism and reassemble again. For some strange reason the motor and mechanism seems to cease up under the tension of a fully closed window and will not reverse.

 

[Dorn1964]

Sounds like all you need is some silicone lubriacant. Anything with silicone such as furniture polish or silicone lubricant from local motor factors.

Wind windows all way down. Then spray it into the rubber channels:thumbs

They get worse on cold weather.

i have the same problem in my Mistral will give the furniture polish a go i think

 

[jims-terrano]

The furniture polish must be the type with Silicone in it or the Silicone Spray Lube from motor shops. I do mine once or twice a year at the most.

Might be a little difficult to get to the edges of the glass with a candle though.

 

[arcascomp]

Will silicone harden the window rubbers over time? Not sure really.

Seen this elsewhere, dunno if it works, just repeating:

Use cotton buds clean the window channels both in the top section and in the runners behind the door cards to remove the years of crud. Then using a light grease (lithium or maybe silicone - didn't say what sort in the thing I read) dip a clean cotton bud in the grease and run it up and down all the runners to provide a bit of lube.

Intend on doing this when I switch out the door cards.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Wickes sell a silicon lubricant that builders use on the rubber gaskets on guttering and piping. It allows the gasket to slide easily, and still seal, and when used on the guttering allows for it to expand and shrink in the sun.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/432013

I originally got it for use on the caravan as it works a treat on the portaloo sealing rubbers, but then found it worked great on all the other window, door and roof light seals as well as the nylon zips of the awning, and the awning track...

They also do this, but I have not tried that...
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/227226

I use the top one on my door, roof, and window rubbers on the T2, and it works a treat. I use it first as a cleaner to get rid of all the gunk and black stuff, then as posted, use a "Large" poundshop cotton bud to rub it round the groove. So far, I have not needed to take the door card off, as I just dribble some down the edge when the window is open, the after a couple of open and closes, just clean off the excess. It's a bit messy the first time, but if you do it fairly regularly after that, it only takes a second or so just to rub it round with the cotton bud.

I found in the past, that when I used domestic polish, it worked a treat when I did it, but then seemed to stop working fairly quickly, like it "dries" out in the sun. I was told by a professional cleaner, that it does harden, to create a protective surface, and this builds up over time, which is why you should never use Pledge/Mr Sheen/etc on quality furniture, as it ruins the original polish.

 

[Banshee]

Let's say the silicon and furniture polish doesn't do the trick.

Is it the motor that just goes lazy or is it something else that causses this? I find that it's worse in the colder weather but only got the car as "summer" was ending so can't really tell if this is a contributing factor.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Let's say the silicon and furniture polish doesn't do the trick.

Is it the motor that just goes lazy or is it something else that causses this? I find that it's worse in the colder weather but only got the car as "summer" was ending so can't really tell if this is a contributing factor.

Not sure if this is applicable to the T2, but on the Volvo, the switch contacts surfaces would wear off and go high resistance. People tried various things, but changing the switch did the trick.

Could also be a dodgy connector, or the wires in the door hinge area breaking down.

I would check the voltage at the motor when you are trying to raise the window, if it drops drastically, then it implies a bad connection somewhere.

 

[solarman216]

all of my motors are the same OK in summer slow in winter tried silicone spray no real benefit, suspect it is wear on the cable runners and or the motors getting tired but as long as the window goes up and down I cannot be effin around with it, Rick

 

[Banshee]

all of my motors are the same OK in summer slow in winter tried silicone spray no real benefit, suspect it is wear on the cable runners and or the motors getting tired but as long as the window goes up and down I cannot be effin around with it, Rick

Glad I'm not the only one with this issue lol, it's just real annoying though sometimes it gets that bad that I have to send it up in 2 maybe even 3 attempts as if I try to go all the way in one go it ends up dying on me and sometimes trips out and won't go up or down until I've turned the engine off and on :/ presume that's just a safety feature to protect the motor as I remember my Dad's Scania doing the same when I was younger

I think I'm going to rip the door cards off when I'm home and have a look at the voltages across the wires and at the motor, that's the problem with these cars unless your name is cncfabs there's not a great deal of these around to borrow parts off for testing.

Will I be able to use the drivers side and leave it hanging free to check the voltage across them both or are the connectors side specific?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Not sure about that, I haven't had to do mine yet... not even taken the door card off, as all is behaving at the moment (Touch wood).

I had to take the sun roof motor out as some swarf had got inside when I drilled the hole in the roof for the for lights, and overall, I was impressed, as it all came apart easily, and looked like it had been designed with maintenance in mind... (Unlike the turbo!!!):lol so hopefully the door motors will be the same.

Don't forget to have a look in the workshop manual, as it shows all the connectors etc and will give you a clue where to look for components.