Slipping Clutch

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Banshee

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Jul 24, 2012
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I noticed on the way to work this morning that my clutch was slipping in 4th and 5th gear when around the 2000/2500rpm range.


I've done the stationary clutch test that Rick advises and that was fine and the car stalled as expected.

How long should I expect to have left out of it

Also would anyone advise this as a DIY repair on the drive or is it worth me booking it in somewhere? I'm pretty competent when I get under there and have the tools but never done a clutch before and don't want to have a mare
 
Mine used to do the same and just stoped slipping shortly after fixing me leaking fuel return pipes but may just be a coincidence
 
Mine used to do the same and just stoped slipping shortly after fixing me leaking fuel return pipes but may just be a coincidence

It looks like it's on the original clutch and it's done 127,000 miles so surely due for a swap?
 
I know mine was done around 80 k but there again it had a woman driving it :lol
 
I know mine was done around 80 k but there again it had a woman driving it :lol

Life of a clutch is so dependant on the type of journey, and also how level the ground is as you pull away, and if you are towing anything.

If mostly motorway 10 clutch operations and you might travel 100 miles.
If town driving, 10 clutch operations might get you through two sets of traffic lights.:eek:

I know one of my elderly neighbours managed to destroy a clutch on a brand new Corsa in less than 6 months. Only a few thousand miles on the clock too.
We could hear her from our back garden, revving the engine to get the car off the drive every time she drove it.
Warranty didn't cover this abuse...:doh

Well age has nothing to do with it...
Mine is nearly 20 years old and still ok with close to 98 k miles.
Most journeys are less than 20 miles and rural to urban.

So what have others got from their clutch first time around?

Picasso 120k miles still fine...
 
If you are going to do it on your drive bear in mind these are very heavy gearboxes.
 
Mine used to do the same and just stoped slipping shortly after fixing me leaking fuel return pipes but may just be a coincidence

They are rubber on the later Terrano's of our vintage am I right?

I'll investigate, I presume IC off to get a better view?
 
They are rubber on the later Terrano's of our vintage am I right?

I'll investigate, I presume IC off to get a better view?

They have always been rubber for the leak off pipes & have known a few get clutch slip when derv has ran down the back of the engine & into the clutch:doh grab a tourch & you should be able to see if they are leaking or wet, but to change them the IC has to come off but hey you can clean out the IC at the same time:thumbs
 
I noticed on the way to work this morning that my clutch was slipping in 4th and 5th gear when around the 2000/2500rpm range.


I've done the stationary clutch test that Rick advises and that was fine and the car stalled as expected.

How long should I expect to have left out of it

Also would anyone advise this as a DIY repair on the drive or is it worth me booking it in somewhere? I'm pretty competent when I get under there and have the tools but never done a clutch before and don't want to have a mare

if it stalled at full bore, then I doubt the clutch is the problem, do you ride the pedal? if not then something is causing a similar issue, first check with your hand on the pedal that there is a little free play before it contacts the master cylinder, next get under the car and you should be able press by hand the slave cylinder right back into its bore, if these two are OK then next time it slips do exactly the same tests, it may only happen after it is hot, Rick
 
Yup, check leak off pipes for sure :thumb2

on a normal T2 oil/fuel running over the back of the engine will not/cannot get into the clutch, the bell housing is mastic sealed and even if it was not it does not work that way, and even if by chance it did, once the clutch has oil on it it will not disappear so the stall test would show it up, Rick
 
So, I'll check the pedal and slave cylinder first then

Might as well just check the leak off's as well now they are in my mind, I know they like to leak and I am using Bio!!! :eek:
 
Leak offs could be the reason for my apparent oil leak, oil level is OK but constant black drips, not a lot but enough to mark the block paving badly:doh:doh
 
They have always been rubber for the leak off pipes & have known a few get clutch slip when derv has ran down the back of the engine & into the clutch:doh grab a tourch & you should be able to see if they are leaking or wet, but to change them the IC has to come off but hey you can clean out the IC at the same time:thumbs

Mine are metal pipes on my 2000 :nenau
 
Mine are metal pipes on my 2000 :nenau

Pretty sure I heard '02 onwards and they started making them rubber?

Was that the Dacia Renault era when they were cost cutting, like changing the tank guard from metal to plastic and throwing cheapo rear diff's on? :doh
 
I have the plastic tank guard,which is being replaced with a nice stainless one when I get round to it.
 
Zexel pump is standard metal leak off pipes, but injectors are different design, to the Bosch, Rick


Yeah forgot to mention mine has the zexel pump set up.
Don't explain the crap plastic tank guard though:lol
 

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