Side Steps Removal

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jims-terrano

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2004
Messages
12,956
I have been looking at my project thread and thinking about the welding jobs. I'm suspecting it may make it easier all round to remove the steps to give far better access.
I want to put the steps back on after I've repaired the rot. The last time I removed the steps on my old Terrano pretty much most of the bolts snapped off.

Does anyone have any ideas how to remove the bolts without them snapping.

Cheers
 
yeah, copious amounts of PlusGas or similar, then impact wrench (you can borrow mine if you like)
 
I was always told hit the bolt square on the head with a hammer first, then tighten very slightly, then undo, but if resistance is felt, tighten then undo, keep doing that, and you might gain a 1/4 turn at a time, then you are on a winner...
If you undo... and then it binds... then continuing to undo, you will often shear it, this is when you should tighten it then undo again, but again copious amounts of penetrating fluid, or WD40.

If in doubt... leave it a bit longer to soak, then try again.
Works for me most of the time...
I have never sheared a bolt on my Mav... yet...:augie
Fuel tank bolts came out this way... also upper ball joint fixings too.:thumb2

Rustic
 
Most will shear, but no sweat just drill them out and rethread, easy, Time
 
When you refit them make sure all the threads get a coat of copper ease grease which should make future removal a sure thing.
 
Just a quick note, when applying grease or oil to a thread, and then torquing them to the correct torque, you will be overloading the bolt, as the bolt is easier to turn, ie reduced friction. So you can over stretch the bolt, which might cause premature failure.

Bolt torque is based on dry threads apparently, I must admit, I have used waxoyl in the past, but I became aware of this much later on...:doh
 
Just a quick note, when applying grease or oil to a thread, and then torquing them to the correct torque, you will be overloading the bolt, as the bolt is easier to turn, ie reduced friction. So you can over stretch the bolt, which might cause premature failure.

Bolt torque is based on dry threads apparently, I must admit, I have used waxoyl in the past, but I became aware of this much later on...:doh

But how many bits and bobs have fallen off your vehicles over the years Rustic.
 
Just a quick note, when applying grease or oil to a thread, and then torquing them to the correct torque, you will be overloading the bolt, as the bolt is easier to turn, ie reduced friction. So you can over stretch the bolt, which might cause premature failure.

Bolt torque is based on dry threads apparently, I must admit, I have used waxoyl in the past, but I became aware of this much later on...:doh
That makes sense, but it's something that has never occurred to me. I will admit to not using my torque wrench as much as I should, after many years of restoring old motorbikes I tend to tighten as much as I can, dependant on the nut or bolt diameter, after all, you don't want a motorbike wheel falling off at 70mph!
 
Just a quick note, when applying grease or oil to a thread, and then torquing them to the correct torque, you will be overloading the bolt, as the bolt is easier to turn, ie reduced friction. So you can over stretch the bolt, which might cause premature failure.

Bolt torque is based on dry threads apparently, I must admit, I have used waxoyl in the past, but I became aware of this much later on...:doh

Quite true but thats for a new nut/bolt without rust dirt and grime embedded in the threads.
 
Quite true but thats for a new nut/bolt without rust dirt and grime embedded in the threads.

Makes a bit of a farce with tightening bolts with a torque wrench.
In the past, I have torqued up cylinder head bolts with original bolts, on all sorts of cars, and never had a failure, but that was to apply torque to three increasing torques in a set order.

A torque wrench is important, provided you take everything into consideration.
:thumb2
 
But how many bits and bobs have fallen off your vehicles over the years Rustic.

Nothing that I am aware of yet, got close when the rear silencer seperated from the main exhaust pipe, wife was driving it at the time and never noticed it clonking on the road lol...:lol
On a company car, once I saw a folder fly off the car roof into the road... you know how it is, hands full, place stuff on the roof, open car door, phone goes... you get in... sort out the phone call, then drive off...:eek:
 

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