Hi Steve.
Starting with the last part of your post ; it's always easier to call in the experts ; downside is that they usually need payment :roll: No job satisfaction there either.
Seems that maybe what you are seeking is increased CAPACITY as a larger reservoir to back up your extras when you are drawing more current than the alternator can produce. Good scheme; especially if you already have a (decent)spare 12 volt battery available.
Can't see why you should need a split charge relay. When you connect the two batteries in parallel (pos to pos / neg to neg) the alternator will just see them as one ( albeit, bigger) battery and divide its output charge between them as needed to bring them both up to equal and optimum voltage.No problem there so long as both batteries are in good condition.
I would be hard pushed to find space under my bonnet to site an additional battery. Perhaps you are luckier
If you need to site the battery remotely from the original battery it is ESSENTIAL that the cables used are auto grade,copper, as short as practical and as large a cross-section area as possible. A bit if consolation here though; you are really only concerned about the positive cable. No NEED to install a seperate negative all the way back so long as the negative side is well and truly earthed at both ends with short thick straps or cables to substantial chassis or body parts which give a negligable resistance electrical path back to the negative side of the original battery.
Another point to remember about remotely sited lead acid batteries; they need ventilation--hydrogen----bang----say no more !
Adding an additional fuseboard is really useful when you have a shedload of extras. At least you can readily go to it for isolation /repair purposes. Having said this; you must know what you are doing when it comes to cable and fuse sizes. 8)
Hope the above makes sense and helps.
Good luck if you take the plunge Steve. :wink: