Rusty wing repair. How To !

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makeitfit

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2008
Messages
15,112
I thought I'd a quick How to Fix a Rusty wing thread :rolleyes:
Typical scabby front wings can easily be fixed with a bit of fibreglass and filler as follows:-
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Forgot to take a before one but assume it was scabby.
Use some masking tape simply to use as a mould for the next bit.
The inside needs a wire brushing simply to remove surface loose and dirt. Then spray or paint with some zinc paint.
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Dont try too hard at this stage because you need to keep a bit of structure , all be it rusty for the next stage.
Cut up some strips of fibre glass mat, ready for the rusty bits area.
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Mix up some resin and hardener to the required amounts. Follow the instructions and dont be tempted to over mix the hardener.
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If you buy an Isopon kit for example, there'll be some gloves in the kit. Use them as it's great fun messin' about in the goo :D Stipple the resin onto the mat until all the white becomes see through and all the air is out of the lay up. Apply about three layers.
It'll take about twenty minutes to go green, that is hard ish but not solid. This is the time to trim off all the hairy stuff with a stanley knife. It's much easier now than when it's gone rock hard !
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Now turn the wing over and you'll see all the old scabs of rust and the fibre glass repair showing through once the masking tape is off.
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Now is the time to get in there with your grinder and get rid of the rust back to the fibre glass.
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Now you need to get yourself some body filler mixed up and apply to the naked steel and fibre glass. Again follow the mixing instructions :sly
The smoother you can apply this now the easier it is to sand back after it's gone off.
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Now it's time to start the delicate sanding job. Use wet and dry sandpaper by hand or a random orbital sander to create a nice smooth surface. You shouldn't be able to feel the difference between the filler and the paint when it's ready.
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Next you can prime the area with a suitable base coat. I cheated here 'cause I didn't have any left. So I did a couple of coats of top coat just on the filler area.
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At this point some small errors may come to light. if so touch up with fine surface filler.
Last job is to flat down the whole wing and then clean off with a tack rag.
Spray about a foot away from the surface and go in a grid pattern. Repeat this stage three or four times and don't be tempted to try and get a fat coat in one go. It'll run as soon as you turn your back:augie
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It looks much better once it's hardened a bit.
It only takes a few hours and will cost about £20, :thumbs
 
Nice work, always handy to know when owning terrano's and mavericks :lol
 
Great guide and also handy to know when owning a Troll too:lol
 
Indeed :lol Mind you I've decided to cut my troll's wings for bigger wheels :sly
 
Indeed Mind you I've decided to cut my troll's wings for bigger wheels




:lol:lol:lol
 
A neighbour who has a P reg Terrano, just had his front wing wheel arch edges repaired by the small local garage, I think he said £230 for both, not bad really.

For new Nissan wings he was quoted £380 each :eek::eek:

So at least you can see how much you are saving.:thumb2

I must admit that when we first bought the Mav, I thought these areas would have been most vulnerable, so I removed the trim on all 4 and... waxoyled them on both sides.

When I removed the driver's side trim to attempt to fix the aerial, the wings were in "as new" condition, so.... yet another thin coat of waxoyl.

So far I am on my 4th 5 litre can of waxoyl, so it does cost time and money to keep any car in pristine condition.

I must admit when I bought the Mav, I never thought I would still be driving it 16+ years on, so the effort was worth it at the time.:thumb2

My previous car was an Austin Ambassador, which was 13 years old and in pristine condition when I sold it, due to 2 or 3 cans of waxoyl, and a lot of effort.
 
will you come do mine?!
What? After such a write up ? How to ? ****:lol:lol
Well if you want to post it to me I'll do it for a "reasonable" fee :sly
Seriously though Clivvy, just take the wing off on Sat morning and you can have it back on Sunday allowing you plenty of time to feel your way :thumbs
 
Nice work Pete, do you use jenolite (rust preventer) on the bare metal and a cutting compound later on when the paint has hardened ?
 
I used a zinc galvanising spray stuff for this job, but Jenolite would be a better choice if you're keeping the truck. Pretty much all the rust should be gone once ground out though :rolleyes:
I guess some sort of cutting in compound would help but I've not been that bothered :augie In fact I've never had such a clean bit of car ever before :lol
 
''In fact I've never had such a clean bit of car ever before''

You'll have to do the rest of it now ;)
 
I was wondering if it is practical to do this wing repair without taking off the wings, anyone done it? Regards. Bri
 
takes minutes to take it off, No reason to do it while it's on.
 
Thank you, should it ever stop raining I will give it a try. The tour of Britain cycle race passes the end of the road this lunch time so I will put onr the wet weather gear and give Wiggins and the lads a cheer as they struggle up the hills in the rain. This time last year the tour should have started in or town Kendal but was cancelled because of the weather, things don't change. Reagards. Bri.
 
I saw a black T2 LWB the other day with pop riveted on plates over the rusty bits on the wings, the plates were also black but the rivets shiny silver. It looked a bit MAD MAX :naughty
 
i attempted it with the wing on a while back, dont bother!! MakeIt's write up is bob on.

although, i thought you had to remove the bumper to remove the front wings?
 
What if the wing is a bit more than scabby and has almost disappeared? Is it possible to repair while keeping to the right shape or is it more like guess work
 

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