Rusty Sills!

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jodysutts

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
19
Failed the test because of a speck of rust on the sill so i gave it a tap with a screwdriver and ... well.... i'll let the pic speak for itself!

If anyone has any experience with this maybe they could share how big or small of a problem this is and the best way to go about repairing the dreaded rust! Maybe I can fix the dent in the passenger side rear door above the rusty sill while im at it!

Cheers!

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The best way is to get it welded. Once that has had the grinder on it will be a bigger area.
Whats the inside sills like, I reckon they will need doing as well.
 
Havnt checked the inside sills yet, I will check in the morning. hope I dont get too much of a shock!
 
Mine is the same year as yours. This is after Mr Grinder had a play

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Its a common problem, the dreaded tin worm....
You will probably find that the inner sills are crappy too...

I did mine last year, ended up cutting off and replacing half the length of both the inner and outer sills.

The problem is once it takes hold it will quickly deteriorate.....

Sorry if i sound the profit of doom but i would recommend if you plan on keeping the motor get it done properly otherwise you will just end up doing it again next year only worse....
 
What people are saying is that yes its normal and yes its fixable. I've been exceptionally lucky have a good friend to do most of my welding. Look at it another way in that once it's done and done properly it's not going to want doing again for another how ever many years.

How much would a second hand car cost? is it cheaper to fix your Terrano up? and would you miss your Terrano if you didn't repair it?
 
Where would you start on that?:eek:
Cut up a scrapper I would have thought.

I would cut it all out back to good metal as some of it is twin skinned and impossible to do with the body on, then I would make up a flat section with the double skin re enforcements done in the shop, then plonk the section on to the motor with generous overlap trim where needed and weld away, preferably with someone on fire watch it is easy to get carried away and not see a fire until it is well established, Rick
 
Or you could fibreglass it like Jeff did mine. Double layer and aluminium mesh. Strong as a strong thing :thumb2

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Failed the test because of a speck of rust on the sill so i gave it a tap with a screwdriver and ... well.... i'll let the pic speak for itself!

If anyone has any experience with this maybe they could share how big or small of a problem this is and the best way to go about repairing the dreaded rust! Maybe I can fix the dent in the passenger side rear door above the rusty sill while im at it!

Cheers!

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oops :doh
 
yep the old tin worm is always much worse than you think, thankfully on these trucks we have a chassis, and that does make a big difference, my trouble these days is after I struggle to get under with the welder and start, when a hot bit hits me I jump and bang something that hurts then get cramp, amid much effing and blinding so do not enjoy it so much any more, Rick
 
I would cut it all out back to good metal as some of it is twin skinned and impossible to do with the body on, then I would make up a flat section with the double skin re enforcements done in the shop, then plonk the section on to the motor with generous overlap trim where needed and weld away, preferably with someone on fire watch it is easy to get carried away and not see a fire until it is well established, Rick

That would have been a beauty of a job. :thumb2 And exactly what my fabricator mate in Scotland would have done (Although he said he wouldn't have wanted to do the job :lol)
 
I got some welding to do on the front soon wings off bumper off and weld away, will post picks when I do it, Rick
 
If you are a reasonably practical type of person that is willing to have a go and to both seek and listen to advice, I reckon it's fairly easy to learn to use a mig.
Daunting to those that have never done it no doubt but it really is fairly simple.
To fix that sill to a standard that would pass an MOT would take about 10 minutes of lessons to anybody that can stick two bits of metal together with a welder. It is probably harder to make that fibreglass look right than to actually weld it.
My way of looking at it is that all you have to do is cut out the bad bits and weld a new bit of metal in its place. Nothing more than that to it.
I'm quite well known for making an "exploratory incision" which means cutting the entire floor pan out. :D

For a long time I had strong feelings that it was a wrong thing to do, but lately I think that using galvanised sheet is the way forward. Not so hard to get the galv off the edges to be welded. In fact it's very easy to burn it off as you go with a bit of experience. Just don't breathe the fumes.
 
If you are a reasonably practical type of person that is willing to have a go and to both seek and listen to advice, I reckon it's fairly easy to learn to use a mig.
Daunting to those that have never done it no doubt but it really is fairly simple.
Just don't breathe the fumes.

good point that, it is cyanide gas, yellow smoke, steer well clear, Rick
 
It's a good idea to avoid breathing any welding fumes but no doubt the fumes when welding galv are particularly bad for you.
 

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