Not on this one, just a single diagonal from drivers head back :thumbs There may be some lower struts going in if I get time.Looking good but are you not adding a x in the roll hoop?
Not on this one, just a single diagonal from drivers head back :thumbs There may be some lower struts going in if I get time.
Pete
When everything has settled down your end how much would I have to pay you to make a roll cage for mine?
Pete
When everything has settled down your end how much would I have to pay you to make a roll cage for mine?
Its very cool, but is it necessary?
I guess more so for a short wheelbase as most of you guys are 2 seaters only :nenau
A quick question, It appears you are fixing the body to the chassis, and the Roll cage to the body, then chassis.
But do you still have the rubber body mounts between the body and the chassis?
As if that was the case, I would expect metal fatigue around the welds around the mounting plates to the body, as the remainder of the body is free to vibrate because of the rubber body mounts.
Would you be better using solid chassis to body mounts, or do you have that already?
I am no expert in mechanical engineering, but just a thought...
I have seen similar vehicles where the roll cage went through the floor with a gap, and some rubber seals, and the roll cage bolted directly to the chassis, so there is no physical connection between the body floor and the roll cage or chassis.
Thanks Rick, now you point it out it makes perfect sense. I hadn't thought of that. I do want to reinstate the head lining and interior trim. So maybe a bolt in insert to the roof over the B post would be a good idea ?
Escape hatch is ofcourse clear :lol
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