Replacing shock absorbers

[andrewk]

I'm pondering whether to replace the shock absorbers on the Patrol (LWB 2005 SVE) or get Nissan to do it for me. I'm not thinking about getting Nissan to do it because I'm congenitally idle or have more money than sense - and yes, I have replaced shockers on motors before.

It's just that on the front shockers, the top is recessed into the inner wing and it doesn't seem possible to get a socket on the fixing nut. For sure, I could easily get an open ended spanner or a ring onto the nut, but wouldn't be able to torque it up to the required 33-38 lb.ft specified in the workshop manual. The last time I "guessed" the torque on the fixing nut for the front strut on a Cavalier I had in the dim and distant, I stripped the thread on the stud - and I'd rather not do that again.

I've seen crows foot spanners on Fleabay and could imagine using one and torqueing it up using a 3/8 drive torque wrench, but even that looks like it might be a bit tight for space. What do you guys do?

Andrew

 

[zippy656]

more money than sense -
Andrew

If i sent you my address can you send me some money then... just to help you out you understand

 

[Deleted account DD]

Andrew, if you pm Jockey I know he did quite a lot of work and research on the finer points of patrol suspension components :thumb2

 

[patbhoy]

I've just done the front shocks on my Patrol exactly as you said, open ended spanner.
If you want to fork out for a garage to do it, be prepared to waste your money cause beleive me they will do it exactly the same way.
Unless that is you are going to stand over them whilst they do it.

 

[andrewk]

If i sent you my address can you send me some money then... just to help you out you understand

Sure, just send me an addressed envelope and stamp :thumb2

Andrew

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

Sure, just send me an addressed envelope and stamp :thumb2

Andrew

mine is already in the post :lol

funny Andrew but i was just thinking about you today and wondering if you were still around, how are you keeping?

 

[macabethiel]

shockers

I am with you pay someone to do it then you have someone to complain to if it starts making a noise later.

Quickfit did have an offer that you were covered for life if they replace your shockers or discs with them !.

 

[andrewk]

funny Andrew but i was just thinking about you today and wondering if you were still around, how are you keeping?

Still around? I might be an old fart, but maybe not all that old for folks to start worrying about whether I am still above ground. :lol

I'm fine. So, is the 'Troll.

Andrew

 

[lacroupade]

I'm pondering whether to replace the shock absorbers on the Patrol (LWB 2005 SVE) or get Nissan to do it for me. I'm not thinking about getting Nissan to do it because I'm congenitally idle or have more money than sense - and yes, I have replaced shockers on motors before.

It's just that on the front shockers, the top is recessed into the inner wing and it doesn't seem possible to get a socket on the fixing nut. For sure, I could easily get an open ended spanner or a ring onto the nut, but wouldn't be able to torque it up to the required 33-38 lb.ft specified in the workshop manual. The last time I "guessed" the torque on the fixing nut for the front strut on a Cavalier I had in the dim and distant, I stripped the thread on the stud - and I'd rather not do that again.

I've seen crows foot spanners on Fleabay and could imagine using one and torqueing it up using a 3/8 drive torque wrench, but even that looks like it might be a bit tight for space. What do you guys do?

Andrew

Andrew just a bit puzzled why you want to replace the shockers on a five year old T2? Are you looking to upgrade? Cos if not then you need to know that the shocks on these trucks go on for a very long time indeed. I had my second truck from new for 10 years and 180k miles....didn't fail, current truck is 8 years old, 80k miles and shockers still as good as new...

So whats driving it?:nenau

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

Still around? I might be an old fart, but maybe not all that old for folks to start worrying about whether I am still above ground. :lol

I'm fine. So, is the 'Troll.

Andrew

i only meant 'around' in the sense of being around here, but i'm sure you knew that. Nice to hear from you.

 

[Terranosaurus]

I've seen crows foot spanners on Fleabay and could imagine using one and torqueing it up using a 3/8 drive torque wrench, but even that looks like it might be a bit tight for space. What do you guys do?

Crows feet can't be used accurately with a torque wrench as they extend the lever so the setting is miles out. There is such a thing as a torque spanner, with replaceable ends that slide into the end of the handle - these are carefully designed so that the centrepoint of the spanner is always the same distance from the end of the handle.

Personally I barely ever use a torque guage except for cylinder head bolts/nuts and wheel nuts/studs. Nothing else is that critical and you can do it by feel with experience. You're feeling for the point where the bolt/stud just starts to stretch,that is all using a torque guage is achieving for you in most circumstances.

 

[BongoBerry]

. You're feeling for the point where the bolt/stud just starts to stretch,that is all using a torque guage is achieving for you in most circumstances.

or in my cases that sinking feeling as the nut gives way and shears away from the shaft

 

[andrewk]

Andrew just a bit puzzled why you want to replace the shockers on a five year old T2?

Actually, it's a five year old Patrol.

I have had a weird noise from the front of the 'Troll that occured intermittently, but especially when setting off. A sort of a "clump" noise. I've been spending some time torquing up things like body mounts, anti-roll bar fixings and anything else that might conceivably have caused what was rapidly becoming very annoying. I especially wanted to discover what the noise was before the motor went in for an MOT, in case the problem was going to be readily fixable at modest cost if I did it myself but heinously expensive if done by a Nissan dealer. Whilst I hunting down the noise, I had a look at the front shockers. So far as I can tell, they are fine. At some time in the future, they may not be, so making a decision about how I would tackle changing the shockers seemed timely, even though I don't have any plans to do it.

My guess is that shockers sourced from Nissan would be stupidly expensive. I used to have an Isuzu Trooper and the shockers for that from an Isuzu franchise dealer were £150 a corner (yes, really!!!) - but only £30 odd from Milner Offroad. Shockers for the 'Troll from Milner's are less than £40 each. The car is going in (to Westway Nissan) for an MOT on 8 June and is having the rear brake disks and pads replaced at the same time. Unlikely though it might be, if the MOT tester did think that the shockers were crackered, I wouldn't want to have to make an instant decision about whether to ask Nissan to change them or do it myself, without a bit of investigation up front - hence the post to this forum.

As an aside, I did discover what the "clumping" noise was and have now fixed it at no cost. There was a very hard lump of mud the size of a house brick wedged above a bashplate that was bearing on the gearbox. If the engine/gearbox moved on its mountings and trapped the housebrick, the clumping noise was generated. Eventually, I was able to chop up/remove the lump of mud using various screwdrivers and wash out the rest using a pressure washer. My guess is that the mud was formerly part of some track in North Yorkshire - probably the track over Skelton Moor, which is now much worse than it was when I did it a year earlier on the Nissan4x4Owners Club laning trip.

Andrew

 

[andrewk]

or in my cases that sinking feeling as the nut gives way and shears away from the shaft

Yep, I've been there too - lots of times, hence the question.

Andrew

 

[andrewk]

There is such a thing as a torque spanner, with replaceable ends that slide into the end of the handle - these are carefully designed so that the centrepoint of the spanner is always the same distance from the end of the handle.

Thanks for that. Just spotted some on Ebay. To be honest, I didn't even know those existed.

Andrew

 

[Jocky]

Changing shocks on a Trol is a simple job and there is no need to torque nuts, just make sure they a tight, when tightening you will see the bushes compress.
The hardest part is jacking the thing up and taking wheels on and off:lol

It always amazes me when people say shocks are fine when the have done 100k miles:doh What ever shocks you go for standard or uprated you will notice the difference.

I remember monroe saying shocks should be changed ever 20k miles.

I've just changed the shocks on a Merc which has only 36K miles on the clock and they needed changing. 1st couple of inches they were doing no damping back to driving like a Merc with 36K should drive:thumbs