Removing front arbs with susp list?

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Problem with running no arb on road is that it will be when you need to brake hard and turn at the same time that you will realise as the car tips over exactly what the function of the arb is and that will be to late.

Front arb all that weight etc is an accident waiting to happen if removed on my Patrol if I disconnect the rear arb electrically it the car will reconnect above a certain speed.

My opinion only but would not use any car on road with no arb connected.

Kind regards

Russell.

Actually bud the disconnect doesn't automatically reconnect, it just won't disconnect above a certain speed (having driven around enough between greenlanes before I know this one!) :thumb2

Fit the right springs and shocks and you can run quite happily without ARBs, particularly on a live axled truck. Like I've said I find that my Trol actually handles better now, with +2" HD springs and shocks and no ARBs, than it did with the stock springs and shocks and the ARBs still fitted. Have had a couple of occasions where I have braked hard enough for the ABS to kick in and the Trol handled impeccably (even with the weight of the winch bumper on front) :)
 
Fit the right springs and shocks and you can run quite happily without ARBs, particularly on a live axled truck. Like I've said I find that my Trol actually handles better now, with +2" HD springs and shocks and no ARBs, than it did with the stock springs and shocks and the ARBs still fitted. Have had a couple of occasions where I have braked hard enough for the ABS to kick in and the Trol handled impeccably (even with the weight of the winch bumper on front) :)

I was starting to get a bit concerned reading this thread, in order to fit the OME springs and shocks on my 'trol, both ARB's, including the switchable rear one, had to come off. I have noticed a bit more sway in the body on the corners, but so far no other problems. It is reassuring to hear you say that yours has been fine. :thumb2

Having just fitted the BFG M/T tyres, I think a bit of "experimentation" around a few safe corners and a practice emergency stop are in order to gauge the new handling characteristics. :augie
 
If you don't understand what it will do to your motor leave them be.
 
surely mr Nissan ( amongst others ) wouldn't fit them if they did no good for the added cost in manufacturing :nenau
 
surely mr Nissan ( amongst others ) wouldn't fit them if they did no good for the added cost in manufacturing :nenau

With standard springs and shocks I would agree, they're needed to sort the handling, but with the right (stiffer) springs and shocks you can do without them. I'm sure removing the ARBs is a common mod on road cars used on track days too.

Of course if you know you don't have ARBs then you'll probably going to subconsciously bear it in mind when your driving anyway :nenau

A lot of Landy Defenders didn't even get them out the factory.
 
Great read, hit the nail on the head ray did. :thumb2

My front arbs are designed for a 2" lift in mind so I guess the cvs are at stress anyway, prob would not be much different off, still for the travel I have on the front which is massive they will remain on.

I get driven a t2 with no arbs, went round corners fine (my driving style anyway) :lol

I would still love to find a cheapish solution to this pants set up on the front, all be it as we have covered before it seems long and expensive :(
 
There isn't a cheap option getting more flex from a T2's front end:doh either fit a live axle or sell it & get something with a live front axle:augie or do what we all do & just get used to it:lol
 
Stiffer springs can never do the job of an arb, stiffer spring means less body roll but arb connects left side to right side, so with stiffer springs a right hand bend will see compression on left spring causing left side to dip and extension on right side causing right side to lift. With arb fitted the compression on the left will transmit a compressive force to the right, the arb is the only down force on the right, spring energy transfer etc will all be trying to lift.

When cars are tested they Do slalom type course which merc a class failed not to say it would fail but would be interesting to see a patrol with big lift and no arb taking test. Ironman do arb extenders for up to 6 inch lift so no reason to get rid.

Kind regards

Russell.
 
Stiffer springs can never do the job of an arb, stiffer spring means less body roll but arb connects left side to right side, so with stiffer springs a right hand bend will see compression on left spring causing left side to dip and extension on right side causing right side to lift. With arb fitted the compression on the left will transmit a compressive force to the right, the arb is the only down force on the right, spring energy transfer etc will all be trying to lift.

When cars are tested they Do slalom type course which merc a class failed not to say it would fail but would be interesting to see a patrol with big lift and no arb taking test. Ironman do arb extenders for up to 6 inch lift so no reason to get rid.

Kind regards

Russell.

Agreed stiffer springs won't do the same job as ARBs but both contribute to less body roll. I have no doubt ARBs will do it better than stiffer springs, but the fact is the stock springs and shocks were pants so the Pedders HD springs and shocks I fitted have actually improved things, even with the ARBs removed.

ARB extenders are available because there are always those that will want a lift but won't want to risk any compromise in road handling - even if it maximises the benefit in offroad handling.

I don't plan on ever slaloming my Trol and always drive with it in mind that I've got no ARBs. Removing my front ARBs was an experiment to see if it would affect the onroad handling - it didn't, so I left them off so I could maximise the benefit to the offroad handling :nenau
 

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