Rear Shocker Nuts

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jims-terrano

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2004
Messages
12,956
Has anyone got some advice about rear shocker nuts please. Gave them a clean with a wire brush, ok may be the top one not as good as the lower because of access. Anyway also soaked them both in plus gas but boy are they stuck. Not moving at all, if I could get them moving I could just keep working back and forth but nothing at all.

Cheers
 
Now I was going to answer this, but thought better of it :lol:lol:lol
 
depends on the reason for removal, if for new shocks then just cut/grind them off, or if you need to re use the shocks then a nut splitter is good, Rick
 
Replacing shockers but aren't the bolt part welded to the vehicle or are they standard nuts n bolts?
 
Assuming you dont have spare nuts :augie
Try tightening the nut 1st but use a breaker bar. Then clean again with rufty tufty wire brush and plus gas etc. Then try again to undo keeping well looobed.
Easy way though just slice the nut off close to thread and fit new nuts ;)
 
Are they some stupid nissan fine thread or are they pretty standard?

Good idea about tightening first though
 
I think they will be a fine pitch thread,possibly m12x1.25.
 
Yep fine pitch but no biggie . Fixings shop should have them in nylock form.
 
Just refreshed my memory, top nuts can be cut, ground split you name it as the bolt is part of the shock and you should get new nuts plates and rubbers with shock, bottom, the bolts are welded to the axle, but nuts are easy to remove, just take two small hammers and hit opposite sides simultaneously, moving around the nut one flat at a time, you may need to do this for 6 to 10 time per flat, if you cannot get the timing right that both hammers strike at the same time then use one larger lump hammer on one side hard against the nut then hit the opposite side, it is very rare that a nut will not loosen with this treatment, Rick
 
REAR shocks Rick :augie
Top bolt is fixed/part of upper chassis cross rail. Do not cut that orff :eek:
 
If you over tighten, or try too much force in trying to undo, you may shear the stud, personally, as you have good access, I would go with destroying the nut to save the stud, a nut splitter sounds good, a grinder with care.
:thumb2
Rustic
 
Cheers for the advice guys, will check again at the weekend as I won't have much time until then. The bottom nut is easiest to access but the top one seems harder as there is less room between boot floor and nut for the ratchet.
 
It took me a long time, and repeated soaking with penetrating oil, but the rear shock nuts on my T2 got out without damage.
As far as I know for the first time in 20 year / 310k km :)
 
Mine were tight, and because of where they are, it made it hard to actually reach up to them and still get much force behind the ratchet, but I did as Makeitfit suggested, and did them up 1/4 of a turn, then wire brushed the thread and put molislip on the thread plus a squirt of the Lidl's rust eater spray.

I recently had to change the rear section of my exhaust, and the nuts on there were seized solid, even the air impact driver could not undo them, and ended up completely rounding them off. I broke my nut splitter (it was an old cheap one) and the nut was in a recess, so I could not get on it properly. So I used my Dremil with the large cutting disk to slice the sides of the nut on both sides. I was not worried about the bolt, so could go deep, but if you went just clear of the thread, you could then give it a quick knock with a small cold chisel and it should open up enough to get it off.
 
Well part way there. The bottom mount of the shocker sheared off the main body of the shocker so obviously well passed it's sell by date. So bottom nut no problem got it off but the bottom of the shocker is seized on too. The top bolt is another story, that is officially a complete bugger! Because we are welding the boot floor I am so tempted to cut a hole in the floor to get at it and then weld it back up afterwards.

Advice welcome
 
Surprised to find the bottom bush is a two section bush and no sleeve through the centre.

Now the top nut is still being a complete pig and struggling to get a socket on it never mind a ratchet or breaker bar.

As usual advice welcome, cheers
 
I have never come across a seized rear shocker bolt but I have used a ring spanner and give it a few hits with a hammer to break the seal.
This is not without its risks as spanners are not designed to be thrashed with hammers but it's worked for me in the past.
 
What you need is a spanner extension. The best bit of bling any spanner monkey could ever want :D
 
Never seen one of those before... must get one!!!

Sent from my SM-T705 using Tapatalk
 

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