rear brake getting hot

[John B]

I've unplugged the abs unit and the drum is now getting just a little warm and the other side is stone cold ?

 

[solarman216]

cannot see that it is an ABS problem as both sides would be the same, you need to remove the new brake pipe to the offending brake and check it for debris, Rick

 

[John B]

Follow up on my little problem, today I got a brand new drum and yet another cylinder and everything seems ok :bow:bow:bow. Thanks to all for the help and advise as I've said it before and I'll say it again your a flipping good bunch of lads :thumb2

 

[solarman216]

must have been faulty cylinder, drum would have made no difference, glad you got it sorted in the end, Rick

 

[John B]

must have been faulty cylinder, drum would have made no difference, glad you got it sorted in the end, Rick

Hi rick I changed the drum because even when I clamped the flexy pipe off the drum was staying cold but I was getting 2 little warm spots so I assumed the drum was warped a little and wanted to make sure I covered everything but the trouble I have now is on one side I have a nice new drum and on the other I have a old rusty one :lol. Thanks for your help mate :thumb2

 

[jims-terrano]

Just check but are you not supposed to do both sides exactly the same with brakes?

 

[John B]

I don't think it matters with drums but to be honest ill probably do the other side because the new one looks so good :lol

 

[rustic]

On the rear, the limited slip diff MUST affect braking in some way, like if the efficiency of one side is down, then as long as the LSD doesn't slip, then the other brake drum is braking for both sides. So one side can get hotter.

OK, to a small degree, especially on light braking, as heavy braking will probably cause the LSD to slip.

Of all the years of owning my Mav, I have rarely locked up a rear wheel whilst braking, except on slipery surfaces.

I used to get the rear sliding out on wet roundabouts, even without braking, but this is due to the LSD, and usually occurs when the oil is getting old and contaminated with the material that naturally comes off the friction material that makes up the LSD.
Note:- Oil is special LSD oil. Comma... approx £5 a litre.

I always make sure that the tyres on the rear are identical, in both make, pressures and tread depth, to save the LSD over working.
If there is too much of a mismatch, then the diff will be slipping all the time, wearing the friction material quicker than normal, also getting warmer so using more fuel I would guess.:nenau


Rustic

 

[Banshee]

Follow up on my little problem, today I got a brand new drum and yet another cylinder and everything seems ok :bow:bow:bow. Thanks to all for the help and advise as I've said it before and I'll say it again your a flipping good bunch of lads :thumb2

I was going to say it could be faulty new parts that you've fitted but I didn't want to upset you :sly

 

[firebobby]

I was going to say it could be faulty new parts that you've fitted but I didn't want to upset you :sly

I did mention the possibility of crap new parts that were fitted.... not blowing my own trumpet though :augie:lol

Glad it's sorted now, oh and do you still .......

 

[firebobby]

I HATE THIS CAR :naughty

:augie:augie:augie:augie:lol

 

[John B]

On the rear, the limited slip diff MUST affect braking in some way, like if the efficiency of one side is down, then as long as the LSD doesn't slip, then the other brake drum is braking for both sides. So one side can get hotter.

OK, to a small degree, especially on light braking, as heavy braking will probably cause the LSD to slip.

Of all the years of owning my Mav, I have rarely locked up a rear wheel whilst braking, except on slipery surfaces.

I used to get the rear sliding out on wet roundabouts, even without braking, but this is due to the LSD, and usually occurs when the oil is getting old and contaminated with the material that naturally comes off the friction material that makes up the LSD.
Note:- Oil is special LSD oil. Comma... approx £5 a litre.

I always make sure that the tyres on the rear are identical, in both make, pressures and tread depth, to save the LSD over working.
If there is too much of a mismatch, then the diff will be slipping all the time, wearing the friction material quicker than normal, also getting warmer so using more fuel I would guess.:nenau


Rustic

Funny you should say that as even thou everything is now ok the drum on the off side drivers does get a little warmer than the other under normal breaking , does yours ??? Any chance you could have a little feel when your out and about :thumb2

 

[Banshee]

Funny you should say that as even thou everything is now ok the drum on the off side drivers does get a little warmer than the other under normal breaking , does yours ??? Any chance you could have a little feel when your out and about :thumb2

Have you got those crappy adjusters in there?

Check the BR workshop manual, Page 31, Part 12

 

[John B]

Have you got those crappy adjusters in there?

Check the BR workshop manual, Page 31, Part 12

Hi banshee where will I find that workshop manual ?