Oil light

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Much more likely a loose wire/bad connection, hitting a puddle is not an indicator of bearing problems, and I see no good reason for dropping the sump, this is a known issue withe the oil pressure switches, having only just got a 3 ltr I probably have this issue to come, Rick



Yeah I know it was about 2ft deep didn’t see it had really bad rain last night [emoji19]

I did trace where the earths go and it’s quite rusted so I’m thinking clean all that up new earth strap as that’s quite rusted too


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Much more likely a loose wire/bad connection, hitting a puddle is not an indicator of bearing problems, and I see no good reason for dropping the sump, this is a known issue withe the oil pressure switches, having only just got a 3 ltr I probably have this issue to come, Rick

Mines almost at 150k with me doing 40k of them. I had the oil light stay on for a couple of days. Obviously checked the oil level and was ok so gave it an oil change the next weekend.
That was either a coincidence or it cured it but it's never stayed on since.
I do oil change it every 5k though, which is once yearly atm.
Plus I drive it sensibly and stay away from deep water:D
 
Mines almost at 150k with me doing 40k of them. I had the oil light stay on for a couple of days. Obviously checked the oil level and was ok so gave it an oil change the next weekend.
That was either a coincidence or it cured it but it's never stayed on since.
I do oil change it every 5k though, which is once yearly atm.
Plus I drive it sensibly and stay away from deep water:D



Well since I hit the puddle this morning it’s just stayed lit all day [emoji58] think I’m going to just do an oil change first what oil are you using with that mileage


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Cool markings on the cat. Run a temporary oil pressure gauge in so you can see what is really happening hot/cold and ignore the Nissan lights, it will give you a known standard to diagnose from and save to wasting time and money on having the sump off, oil etc to get back to where you are now. The puddle incident would have been an ideal time to compare the mechanical against electrical.
 
Well since I hit the puddle this morning it’s just stayed lit all day [emoji58] think I’m going to just do an oil change first what oil are you using with that mileage


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I've used this oil since I've owned it and had no issues.
I change it every 5k though. It's served me well.

 
Cool markings on the cat. Run a temporary oil pressure gauge in so you can see what is really happening hot/cold and ignore the Nissan lights, it will give you a known standard to diagnose from and save to wasting time and money on having the sump off, oil etc to get back to where you are now. The puddle incident would have been an ideal time to compare the mechanical against electrical.



Thanks he’s a Bengal noisy lil bastard.
Well I do find it strange that the light has stayed solid since then no flashing on and off with rpm changes I think I found the sensor at the top of engine is it right next to a fat piece of wiring loom above the alternator?
Just trying to also see where I would run a gauge.
I do have the readings that Neil’s garage did for him which are 60 psi at both points which is a bit high but at least there the same reading [emoji848] sooooo
My other thoughts are bypass all the old wires and run new ones to eliminate earthing problems??? But how I would do that would need some explanation off of someone more knowledgeable [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


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Fit a gauge if all else fails.

As has been said here fitting a decent gauge removes any doubt, sure try to fix the wiring but I certainly would not go dropping the sump - I just can't see any logic in that route.

If it's it the low pressure light coming on even though it has a had a new switch not long ago that might be easy to change first.
 
Thanks he’s a Bengal noisy lil bastard.
Well I do find it strange that the light has stayed solid since then no flashing on and off with rpm changes I think I found the sensor at the top of engine is it right next to a fat piece of wiring loom above the alternator?
Just trying to also see where I would run a gauge.
I do have the readings that Neil’s garage did for him which are 60 psi at both points which is a bit high but at least there the same reading [emoji848] sooooo
My other thoughts are bypass all the old wires and run new ones to eliminate earthing problems??? But how I would do that would need some explanation off of someone more knowledgeable [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


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That'll be the low oil pressure sensor but there's also a high pressure one down near the starter, could be either but I'd bet money on the high pressure sensor rather than the low pressure one.

I wouldn't even consider trying to replace wiring, I think you're on a hiding to nothing.

Just stick the oil gauge sender into the banjo bolt where the low pressure sensor is located (might need to use an extender to give space for the sender) and earth the wire to the pressure sensor. Thread going into the banjo bolt is 1/8 bspt.

Run the wire from the sender either through the cable grommet in the firewall and into the passenger footwell or run the sender wire round the back of the engine and through the firewall grommet on the drivers side. I mounted the gauge in a separate holder in the dash on a flat section in the corner near the windscreen. Took a power feed from the ignition so it was only live when running.
 
Oh and the 60psi, do we know if that was hot or cold? Sounds okay for a hot reading tbh :nenau
 
Oh and the 60psi, do we know if that was hot or cold? Sounds okay for a hot reading tbh :nenau



Right I will get a gauge ordered and sort it funny story light went off today for 2 separate journeys [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

Just can’t make this shit up ahhahaha


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Hey guys any ideas which one I need???


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One must be the high pressure and one the low pressure but no idea which :nenau
 
Why on earth should a motor need a high and low pressure switch, low pressure is all we are interested in, Rick
 
High oil pressure can cause issues

Why on earth should a motor need a high and low pressure switch, low pressure is all we are interested in, Rick

I agree that low oil pressure is what we are generally interested in but if high pressure was not an issue then why do most if not all vehicles have an oil pressure relief valve to prevent overly high oil pressure ?

i guess it would lead to premature white metal bearing wear due to shot blasting effect from dirt or more likely oil filter & core plug blow outs. Lots on the net about such risks.

Older engines in the likes of Jaguar & MB often ran at a maximum of 45-50 psi.
 
Engines need a pressure relief valve simply because on a cold engine the oil is very thick compared to hot and the pressure will be far too high without it being bled off via the valve, most are variable in that the higher the pressure the more it opens, why a manufacturer should want to fit a high switch I can only guess that they do not trust their PRV, Rick
 
With both sensors replaced and pressure tested a couple of times I just removed the light :lol
Since then I drove over 30.000 miles and everything is still fine so no worries.
 
Well I’ve ordered another new sensor see if that sorts it but I also ordered a gauge so if not that’s just going in also ordered a sneaky diesel heater.


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Well option 1 didn’t work so onto the gauge what do I do with the engine earth that went to original plug?


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Well option 1 didn’t work so onto the gauge what do I do with the engine earth that went to original plug?


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You'll need to do a bit of trial and error to work out which pressure sensor cable needs earthed and which doesn't (to turn off the warning light).

Whatever one needed earthed I just ran a wire from it to an earth point
 

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