Oil(?) Leak on/around Rear Axle & Diff

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PCr_1

Active member
Club Member
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Oct 9, 2007
Messages
35
I've been looking for one of these for ages and have just picked up what appeared to be a great 3.0l T2 (54 Plate). All looked well until I noticed oil dripping from underside rear of car. Gor it home and had a look underneath and it's almost everywhere back from the where the prop shaft meets the rear diff. It wasn't leaking when I checked it over before buying or when I first stopped. I originally thought it was the diff plug but there is oil on the diff and high on the fuel tank. Any ideas?

Thanks

Paul
 
Hi and welcome aboard.

Check your fuel lines, they are like a brake pipe only a little thinker and run along the driverside chassis and over the rear axle. Theyre a prime candidate for a leak. There is a download in the quick links section regarding replacing the fuel lines but to be honest they're not difficult and if you search the forum there is stacks of threads about them. Most people buy enough rubber fuel grade hose to go from the tank into the engine bay to replace the whole lot although others simply replace a small section. You need to replace the feed and return at the same time and once done you engine may run better too assuming it is the cause of your leak.
 
Hi. As Jim says, it is around the rear axle where the fuel lines tend to rot out first.
But if it is oil from the diff, check out the breather that comes off the top of the axle a little way away from the diff itself. If standard it winds it's way to above the fuel tank.
I'm having the same problem atm. I wiped the area clean and filled the diff back up to correct level but haven't lost any more since:nenau I'm wondering if pressure had built up, as I was motorway driving at the time, caused by a blocked breather.
I haven't had time to take a look yet though:doh
 
Depends what the fluid is.

Brake fluid, tends to be inside the rear wheel rim.
Diff oil, very smelly.
Diesel fuel, could be the fuel lines as suggested, but the fuel tank central seam can split due to corrosion and expansion of the rust that can split the seam, so if you filled the tank up before you left, then this could be your culprit.

Not many good secondhand fuel tanks around either, most have corrosion on the front leading seam.
Rustic
 
Clutch pipe on the 3. Same as the 2.7. The damper pipe?
 
That was quick!

Thanks for the posts. It was all dry before I set off but did take it on the motorway. The wheel ends of the axle(s) are almost dry just a few splash marks. The really wet area was on hte diff and behing it. There is a pipe that runs from the diff up towards a cross member and then towards the fuel tank. I just couldn't understand oil coming from the top of the fuel tank. Im pretty certain it's oil, it smells of oil rather than diesel. I'll look again tomorrow. If it's the breather pipe is there only one of them and how do I stop it happening?

Thanks again, I will probably sleep a little easier tonight!

Paul
 
Diff breather pipe has a union screwed into the top of the diff, think there may be a photo of it on my project thread as mine had been broken by the broken exhaust pipe.
 
I doubt oil will be coming out of the breather but it could be blocked forcing oil out else where when hot. :nenau
If the oil seal at the prop end was leaking you'd know about it I guess. I'm in the dark with this myself atm.
 
Breather ?

Thanks for the posts. It was all dry before I set off but did take it on the motorway. The wheel ends of the axle(s) are almost dry just a few splash marks. The really wet area was on hte diff and behing it. There is a pipe that runs from the diff up towards a cross member and then towards the fuel tank. I just couldn't understand oil coming from the top of the fuel tank. Im pretty certain it's oil, it smells of oil rather than diesel. I'll look again tomorrow. If it's the breather pipe is there only one of them and how do I stop it happening?

Thanks again, I will probably sleep a little easier tonight!

Paul

As others have said if it's diff oil it really does stink. If you give it a lick its brake fluid (doubtful) if it tastes bitter as opposed to ant-freeze that is sweet. If it was diesel pretty sure you would know from the smell without even getting under the vehicle.

Might be that the breather was blocked and diff was slightly overfull and motorway type journed has got the diff hot and as the breather is blocked or not sufficiently free the pressure has pushed the oil past the oil seal where the prop shaft connects. Shaft rotation would spread it about a bit. My bet is on the breather being blocked.
 
Photo

Thanks for replies everyone, I can smell the fluid just by walking around and it's a strong oil (rather than diesel) type smell. Is this the breather pipe I should be looking at? I don't want to be pulling at pipes I can't see both ends of!

Thanks,

Paul
 

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Woah that is soaked, my diff is different to yours but I would say that is deffo the breather and you problem.
 
Woah that is soaked, my diff is different to yours but I would say that is deffo the breather and you problem.

It might have the wrong oil in the diff, you must have limited slip diff oil. Coma do one. You will probably need less than 2 litres for your tin plate diff.
The older cast iron diffs take 3 litres and the breather is on the top of the diff housing.

If I were you, I would sort the breather, then drain oil, remove upper filler plug first, ( they often sieze) then drain, replace drain plug, then add LSD oil via the filler until full.

Then see how it goes after a few good runs, then in around a thousand miles or so, drain diff again, then refil with LSD oil again. That will purge out any incorrect oil that may have been used.

When the oil comes out it might look grey and gooey, this is normal. It picks up the friction material, as it wears.

IF the breather was the problem, and oil was pressurised out of the prop shaft seal, chances are, it might have tried to squeeze past the axle seals and into your brake drums. So worth a look in here anyway.

Don't rush into doing the drums just yet, there is a technique for removing the drums easily, and setting up the play in the handbrake cable. There is a workshop down load and many posts on this.

Edit... forgot to add, that looks like your breather.
Uncle Rustic
 
The breather is not connected to anything in the chassis there is just a clamp to keep it secure.
Easy enough to remove and check for a blockage.
 
Thanks All,

I'll have a look this afternoon and see what I can manage. At least I know I'm about to mess about with right thing.

Paul
 
Thanks for replies everyone, I can smell the fluid just by walking around and it's a strong oil (rather than diesel) type smell. Is this the breather pipe I should be looking at? I don't want to be pulling at pipes I can't see both ends of!

Thanks,

Paul

Wow!!! Certainly needs attention.

I'm quite interested to see what this is, to get to all the places it seems to have reached it needs to have been pressurised somehow or "flung" by some sort of rotational force if that makes sense :nenau

Could the seal on the diff have failed and the internals flicking it around somehow?
 
It might have the wrong oil in the diff, you must have limited slip diff oil. Coma do one. You will probably need less than 2 litres for your tin plate diff.

Edit... forgot to add, that looks like your breather.
Uncle Rustic

2.8ltrs in our tin plate diff my man, 2.8ltrs :lol
 
2.8ltrs in our tin plate diff my man, 2.8ltrs :lol

I knew the cast one was 2.8 ltrs but I got it in my head the tin plate was half that.

There you go, I can still learn something every day lol:thumb2
 
I knew the cast one was 2.8 ltrs but I got it in my head the tin plate was half that.

There you go, I can still learn something every day lol:thumb2

We moan about them but I've not heard of as many problems as people have made out, I think they get unfair bad press.

I've not had any issues with mine and that's had some abuse :naughty
 
Post fiddle conclusion

I've had a fiddle about this afternoon with limited success. I managed to get to the end of the breather pipe and that was clean and dry so I'm assuming it is blocked. The diff end was quite worn, I found cracks in it as moved it when cleaning it. There's no leak from the metal connector end of the pipe but it does look pretty rusted. I couldn't undo the filler plug so didn't even attempt the drain plug. I'm not certain that the largest drain plug I have is large enough so don't want to force it and make things any worse.
I think at the moment I can risk driving it to a garage to a man with a few more tools later this week. I expect it will take him an hour to do what is likely to take me two days. At least I know what to ask of him when I get it there and what my options are for repair.

Thanks for your help and comments,

Paul
 

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