oil change

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Banshee said:
Fantastic!!!!!! Very informative and also very funny lol I'm grinning to myself like an idiot waiting for my sandwich in the canteen at work :)

Where abouts is the sump plug located?
Click to expand...

Mine has a little cover in the plastic undertray, remove this cover... and there is the sump plug, but... as you remove the sump plug, some of the oil decides it wants to escape, and spills out over the cover and not into the bowl:doh so you might need a deflector, that's why I don't remove the dip stick or filler cap until most of the oil is out, otherwise you get showered in hot oil.

I use on old washing up bowl to catch the oil, but I put a double layer of bin liner over it, so when you empty the bowl into an old oil container, you can discard the bin liner, and the bowl is virtually clean, unless you use those cheap bin liners, and it all escapes through all the tiny holes...:doh

When decanting old oil into an old container, I use a funnel, then if you over fill the funnel, it all tipples over and you have another oil spill, so sheet up when you are transferring too.

TIP:
Always keep a spare 4 litre empty oil container, as you need somewhere to put 6 + litres of old oil, and you probably bought 2x 4 litre containers, and you need to save the left overs of the new oil for next time, or for topping up.
Rustic
 
what I love about the sump plug on these, is how its pointing out directly at your face...........

when I did the oil change on my maverick, I tried to use a funnel to help with the initial flow of oil...only the funnel had a micro filter in it...and so oil EVERYWHERE. luckily I was on a gravel drive way so nothing is ruined and the local plant life survived.
 
Anyone got the part number to hand for a facelift 96' TDi Maverick Oil Filter?
Motor factors are being idiots
 
I fully recommend rustic's tip re: 1/2 filling oil filter before replacement. I was given this tip a very long time ago together with this one: after the engine oil has drained to a slow drip add 1/2 L or more of fresh oil & let this drain before refilling. You will be amazed how much more dirty oil comes out.
 
A little tip with the oil filter when removing it, put a bin bag & old T-shirt under the filter on the front diff etc & any spilt oil gets soaked up & saves you having to wash it off or getting oil drips for days afterwards:thumb2 If you don't have any old T-shirts next doors cat will do:lol:lol:lol
 
Sweety said:
A little tip with the oil filter when removing it, put a bin bag & old T-shirt under the filter on the front diff etc & any spilt oil gets soaked up & saves you having to wash it off or getting oil drips for days afterwards:thumb2 If you don't have any old T-shirts next doors cat will do:lol:lol:lol
Click to expand...

:thumbs:lol
 
Sweety said:
A little tip with the oil filter when removing it, put a bin bag & old T-shirt under the filter on the front diff etc & any spilt oil gets soaked up & saves you having to wash it off or getting oil drips for days afterwards:thumb2 If you don't have any old T-shirts next doors cat will do:lol:lol:lol
Click to expand...

I'll make a note of that...
I'll put it on the Cat-a-list...:lol:lol:lol

That was a clean joke...:doh
I feel exhausted after thinking that one up.


:doh
 
Hi, use throw away nappies junior from wilkos are cheep I use them when I change the engine oil in boat you should see them suck it up my engine bay is lovely and cleen and dry great for drying water leeks up too
 
What grade of oil ?

Its interesting that most Japanese Motors do not specify Fully Synthetic oils and finding fully synthetic oils with a higher starting viscosity than 5W/ can be difficult as most places do not stock them.

Its also confusing when oils are labelled at Synthetically Engineered when they mean part synthetic or they hide behind names like Magnatec with bullshit about magnetic technology.

Shell do a fully synthetic 10W/40 branded as Shell Helix for petrol cars.

They also do fully synthetic Shell Rotella T6 a 15W/40 for Diesels.

I have found that if you change your engine oil at say every 5 k miles or annually and use a decent mineral oil its just as good in protecting the engine from wear.
I had a Manta GT/E in the 80's and ran it in on Duckhams Oil when I had to replace the head gasket at 110k miles I was amazed to find no bore wear and the valve stems were still within original tolerances.
Manufacturers like Merc & BMW stipulate fully synthetic because of the long service intervals they advertise to sell new cars. Thinner oils like 0W/ and 5W/ help lubricate the modern turbos etc.
A major factor in synthetic oil technology is that they retain their viscosity and do not break down with high temperature like mineral oils. What limited them was the accumulation of acid formed from sulphur in the petrol leading to engine corrosion. The big breakthrough was by Mobil when they did a million miles with the same engine oil by using micronised chalk in the oil to neutralise the acid build up. All first line Synthetic oils now use this additive.

I buy my Shell oils online from Amazon as its cheaper for me than trade from local motor factors.
 
Very true...

Wow blast from the past, I always used Duckhams in my old BMC's the Green oil... what happened to that I wonder?


tobias said:
Hi, use throw away nappies junior from wilkos are cheep I use them when I change the engine oil in boat you should see them suck it up my engine bay is lovely and cleen and dry great for drying water leeks up too
Click to expand...

What a great idea... we use puppy pads for the ferrets, which while not as absorbent as a nappy, should do the job... Thanks.
 
Duckhams... my dad used to put that in the MG Metro. changed every 6k and his friend used to come round for it as he used the used oil as new when he did a oil change. lol
 
Well the oil change was a success :D

In the end I brought Lucas SAE Magnum 15W 40
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=48&catid=13&loc=show

Managed to only make a little bit of a mess lol, in fact it took me longer to clean the drive than it did to change the oil and filter hahaha

A word of advice to anyone planning to do this soon, the oil filter is way way easier to remove via the passengers side wheel arch and almost removes by hand when lukewarm :thumb2

I flushed about 1l of the new stuff through once the sump had drained and shook the car a little bit, I reckon I managed to drain about 6l from the car in total (excluding 1l I put through as a flush)
 
You know its like a spray can, you are supposed to carry on shaking it for at least two mins after it starts rattling :)
 
Duckhams Oils

Lazy-Ferret said:
Very true...

Wow blast from the past, I always used Duckhams in my old BMC's the Green oil... what happened to that I wonder?




What a great idea... we use puppy pads for the ferrets, which while not as absorbent as a nappy, should do the job... Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yes you can still get it and they do a semi-synthetic too its reasonably priced too loads on flea-bay !
 
did the oil change today, my little oil catch container worked a treat. I used Mobile 1000 x1 15w40, great price from Halfords. Fitted new filter, new fuel filter also. everything seems to be running much better, but I have yet to go for a drive (got a nail in the tyre so getting that repaired tomorrow).:thumbs
 
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