oil change

[clivvy]

hi guys,

I decided im doing most of my oils this weekend, but I have gotten confused over the best oil to choose. Firstly, I am going to add a tin of flush and run through the engine for a few days (unless I can find one that you just run prior to the change).

the problem is, im getting mixed feedback on which oil to actually use in the engine. 5W40, or 15W40? My engine is 105k miles, 2.7tdi, 03 plate.

any recommendations?

I am going to do the gearbox oil too, but I have never done this before, do I need a new sump plug etc like with the engine oil?

thanks in advance!!

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Do you change the sump plug every time you change the oil? I only change the copper washer every few times, I don't think I have ever changed the plug.

With the Engine Oil, as we are coming into winter, the lighter 5w40 would be better for cold starts, but I must admit I prefer the thicker stuff, and would stick to the 15w40 on an older engine, mine uses quite a bit more if I put the thin stuff in.

I know it has been said before, but make sure you can get the filler out of the gear box, before you drain it, it seemed to be ridiculously tight on my one. Again, I never changed the bungs, I did not even think about it.

 

[clivvy]

no I don't change the plug every time, just the copper washers, BUT I do make sure i have spare plugs before doing an oil change - I don't have any spares at the moment but I was more unsure of the gearbox plug as I have never changed gearbox oil before (only done engine oil and rear diff).

I will stick with 15W40 as that should be fine for year round protection if I get some decent stuff..like Magnatec or something?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

no I don't change the plug every time, just the copper washers, BUT I do make sure i have spare plugs before doing an oil change - I don't have any spares at the moment but I was more unsure of the gearbox plug as I have never changed gearbox oil before (only done engine oil and rear diff).

I will stick with 15W40 as that should be fine for year round protection if I get some decent stuff..like Magnatec or something?

Personally, I think that is a good choice.

Good idea on the plugs, must admit I have never thought about it, I guess I would only really worry if I started to round it off, then I would stop, get a new one and start again once I had it in my hands... mind you, a second one, when you drop the first straight into the hot oil drain pan could be useful, although, I like the satisfaction of eventually catching it on the end of the extending magnetic thing... sort of like fishing with a known guaranteed catch..:lol

 

[trophymick]

I wouldn't bother with flushing oil Clive. If you really want to flush your engine out, I would get some cheap oil (Asda, Tesco etc) and run that for a day or three, drain and refill with some better quality stuff.:thumb2

 

[vince]

the gearbox has the same 1/2in square drive plugs as the f/r diff and transfer box so if you round that off your doing something very wrong:doh. they are also magnetic so drop the oil and give the plug a good wipe with a cloth and refit. my 94 td runs better on the cheapo sda mineral oil than anything else, iv found if i use semi synth it uses much more but iv not neede a topup in the last 7monthys iv been using mineral.

 

[Sweety]

The best oil flush out is Forte IIRC but TBH I wouldn't use a flush on an engine with that sort of milage as the crap could be keeping the bearings happy. I alway use 10W40 as these are old designed engines & 5w40 in my eyes is far to thin for them, yes it's ok in the winter but once the temps raise it'll be like having water in your engine but as Civvy has said 15W40 would be fine & might be a bit better due to your milage

 

[clivvy]

thanks very much for the advice chaps, ill stick with 15w40 and see how it goes. Im going to do the engine oil and gearbox oil this weekend and MAYBE the rear diff if I can afford it:thumbs

 

[larson]

my vauxhall machanic told me not to put magnatex in my engine. i was paying for it not him and he insisted only use that from new.. god knows why

 

[clivvy]

I think Magnatec is supposed to be quicker to warm up, for the thickness it is?? I dunno. I used to use it in my V6's etc and they always ran very well for it, no idea if it makes any difference on these engine though...

 

[larson]

its also supposed to cling to the engine parts to keep them coated..

 

[swaggy]

While we are on the topic of engine oil, my T2 is due a change and I was wondering what you guys think is the best type of oil for the T2 2.7 TDi engine. Mineral, semi synth, or fully synth.

Mine is an 01 plate with 60K on it currently running 10W40 semi.

 

[rustic]

its also supposed to cling to the engine parts to keep them coated..

Every now and again I put in some 2000e molyslip, this helps to coat engine parts, and protects against oil starvation on startup. So they say...

I use 10/40 or 15/40 mineral or semi synthetic, castrol GTX or combinations of the two, depends what's on offer at Tesco,or similar, then I buy enough for two changes. 5/40 is probably too thin in our climate, and expect to burn more, as it is more likely to slip past the piston rings and valve stems.

I never replace the sump washer, as I always smear the threads with " calortite" which is a non setting sealer, which is similar to red hematite, I use it on the gearbox sump and filling plugs too. As it fills the threads, it stops corrosion too, so, easy to remove later, doesn't leak, and can be cleaned up with meths.

I never over tighten the main sump plug, never had any leaks in 18 years on my Mav.:thumb2

Another tip, nearly fill the new oil filter with new oil, as it reduces oil starvation on start up as it takes a few seconds to fill the oil filter before oil is circulated around the engine.
Garages don't usually do this... it's not their engine is it...:doh. They don't care if the engine lasts 40 k miles or 200k miles.
These diesel Td and Tdi engines are good for 300 k miles, if looked after.

On some engines with horizontal oil filters, it's not possible anyway...:doh
But our vehicles are likely to last 20 years or more, mine has clocked up 18 1/2 years which I have had from new.


Hope it helps,

Rustic

 

[Banshee]

I want to do a full oil change on mine soon I've been told to use 10/40 Mineral however I've just used that Shell Lubematch Tool and they say use 5/30 :S Need about 7L for a full drain don't you? So I'll be buying 10l

Also I'm now going to ask the amateur question of how I do a full drain and refill

I want to get it straight in my head before I go doing something stupid and breaking something

 

[geoffdown]

I want to do a full oil change on mine soon I've been told to use 10/40 Mineral however I've just used that Shell Lubematch Tool and they say use 5/30 :S Need about 7L for a full drain don't you? So I'll be buying 10l

Also I'm now going to ask the amateur question of how I do a full drain and refill

I want to get it straight in my head before I go doing something stupid and breaking something

Dont put in that grade of oil its too thin for theses engine's I use 15/40w mineral its what theses engine's were made for any lower grade and mine starts to use oil this grade I can go 6000 miles with out a top up:thumbs and it takes bout 6.8L

 

[rustic]

I want to do a full oil change on mine soon I've been told to use 10/40 Mineral however I've just used that Shell Lubematch Tool and they say use 5/30 :S Need about 7L for a full drain don't you? So I'll be buying 10l

Also I'm now going to ask the amateur question of how I do a full drain and refill

I want to get it straight in my head before I go doing something stupid and breaking something

5/30 too thin, others might be along soon to agree...

You won't get all 7 litres out, warm oil, NOT HOT ! comes out best.
Prepare for an oil leak from hell, when you remove the oil filter, if you are lucky enough not to drop it. I always take off the plastic sump guard first, as it usually fills with oil :doh

I have taken the filter off via the top, by standing on a box and leaning over, but it is far easier to remove the nearside wheel, place vehicle on axle stands, and remove the rubber guard, and go in through the wheel arch.

You can actually remove the filter over the chassis towards the front via the wheel arch, without spilling too much, but like I say prepare for the worst, and sheet up accordingly, to catch the filter full if you drop it.:doh it happens...
Most times I do a filter change, I can usually clean up with paper kitchen roll, with less than an egg cup full spilt, it can be done...

Choose your filter removal tool with care, chain wrenches can't get in, I use a strap wrench, the sort people use in the kitchen to remove jar lids.

You will also need the strap wrench to tighten it too, but not too much.

Once when my filter was really tight, I just degreased it, put on a pair of rubber gloves and it actually came off easily, it just depends on access.

Warm, not Hot filters spin off easier.
Less risk of scolding too, hot oil can strip skin...

When filling, put in 5 litres, take your time, don't flood it in, aim to take several minutes, give it time to get to the sump down the oil ways.

Use the dip stick then add oil 1/4 litre at a time, wait... check again.
Like I say, nearly completely fill oil filter first.

Best regards,

Rustic

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

I want to get it straight in my head before I go doing something stupid and breaking something

Spoilsport, how arw we all supposed to learn from other peoples mistakes, if you stop making them...:lol:lol

Well, here is how not to do it... so you can learn from my mistakes....:thumbs

Personally, I run the car to get it warm, normally taking my wife to the train station. Get back, and park it up.

Take out the dip stick, and take off the filler cap.

Then I sort out all the bits I need, allowing the engine a bit of time to cool, so it is not scalding oil coming out.

I then crack the sump plug, put the drain bowl under, and then finish removing the sump plug. (Latex gloves are great here...) I then drop the sump plug in the hot oil, without fail, despite always saying I won't do it the next time.

At this time, a huge gust of wind, regardless of what the weather forecast says, will come up, and blow under the car, splashing the sump, engine, suspension components, me and the drive way with unrealistic amounts of hot oil..

While it is draining, and blowing every where, I remover the oil filter, again spilling a load down the side of the engine, over the remaining nearside suspension and drive components. I then remember the tarp in it's wrapper, in the garage, I purchased cheap, for the next time I did an oil change!

once the oil is down to just a drip, I put an old towel down, while I remove the drain bowl, and go and get the Extending magnetic thingamajig, and fish in the warm oil for the sump plug, which is surprisingly hard to find, considering it is such a small bowl. Having recovered the sump plug, I clean it up, change the washer (sometimes) and then wipe the bottom of the engine, and re-insert the plug.

Half fill the oil filter with new oil, more than that, and I just add new oil to all the old oil down the side of the engine. smear some oil on the filter O ring, and after having a feel where the oil filter will be going, to make sure nothing feels amiss, like the old oil seal stayed there, or some such, I re-attach the new filter, doing it up hand tight. I then wipe my hands, and the oil covered oil filter, and get enough grip to do it up a bit more!

Being anal, I then re-check I have put the sump plug back in, and tightened it..

I then start to re-fill the engine, just as another wind storm gets up, blowing the new oil as it pours all over the top of the engine and me... After I have put in about 6 litres, I start to check the oil level with the dip stick.

Eventually, when it is just a little over full, I clean things up, and start the engine, I normally do not wait for the glow plug light to go out, as I want her to turn over a few times before she starts, to help splash and pump the oil round. Once started, I do not rev her, or anything, I ust let her run until the oil light go's out, 5 seconds max, and I turn her back off, and recheck everything, including dipstick, sump plug, and oil filter, to make sure there are no immediate leaks.

I then spray lots of engine de-greaser over the engine and hose it off, move the car, to somewhere clean, and then do the drive way, clean up the oil covered tools, bowls, towels, magnetic thingamajig....

Then I re-check the car for leaks, park it back in the drive, but the other way round, so it is clean under it, and go and have a bath to remove all the oil from me.

Simples....

 

[Banshee]

Spoilsport, how arw we all supposed to learn from other peoples mistakes, if you stop making them...:lol:lol

Well, here is how not to do it... so you can learn from my mistakes....:thumbs

Personally, I run the car to get it warm, normally taking my wife to the train station. Get back, and park it up.

Take out the dip stick, and take off the filler cap.

Then I sort out all the bits I need, allowing the engine a bit of time to cool, so it is not scalding oil coming out.

I then crack the sump plug, put the drain bowl under, and then finish removing the sump plug. (Latex gloves are great here...) I then drop the sump plug in the hot oil, without fail, despite always saying I won't do it the next time.

At this time, a huge gust of wind, regardless of what the weather forecast says, will come up, and blow under the car, splashing the sump, engine, suspension components, me and the drive way with unrealistic amounts of hot oil..

While it is draining, and blowing every where, I remover the oil filter, again spilling a load down the side of the engine, over the remaining nearside suspension and drive components. I then remember the tarp in it's wrapper, in the garage, I purchased cheap, for the next time I did an oil change!

once the oil is down to just a drip, I put an old towel down, while I remove the drain bowl, and go and get the Extending magnetic thingamajig, and fish in the warm oil for the sump plug, which is surprisingly hard to find, considering it is such a small bowl. Having recovered the sump plug, I clean it up, change the washer (sometimes) and then wipe the bottom of the engine, and re-insert the plug.

Half fill the oil filter with new oil, more than that, and I just add new oil to all the old oil down the side of the engine. smear some oil on the filter O ring, and after having a feel where the oil filter will be going, to make sure nothing feels amiss, like the old oil seal stayed there, or some such, I re-attach the new filter, doing it up hand tight. I then wipe my hands, and the oil covered oil filter, and get enough grip to do it up a bit more!

Being anal, I then re-check I have put the sump plug back in, and tightened it..

I then start to re-fill the engine, just as another wind storm gets up, blowing the new oil as it pours all over the top of the engine and me... After I have put in about 6 litres, I start to check the oil level with the dip stick.

Eventually, when it is just a little over full, I clean things up, and start the engine, I normally do not wait for the glow plug light to go out, as I want her to turn over a few times before she starts, to help splash and pump the oil round. Once started, I do not rev her, or anything, I ust let her run until the oil light go's out, 5 seconds max, and I turn her back off, and recheck everything, including dipstick, sump plug, and oil filter, to make sure there are no immediate leaks.

I then spray lots of engine de-greaser over the engine and hose it off, move the car, to somewhere clean, and then do the drive way, clean up the oil covered tools, bowls, towels, magnetic thingamajig....

Then I re-check the car for leaks, park it back in the drive, but the other way round, so it is clean under it, and go and have a bath to remove all the oil from me.

Simples....

Fantastic!!!!!! Very informative and also very funny lol I'm grinning to myself like an idiot waiting for my sandwich in the canteen at work

Where abouts is the sump plug located?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

There is a clue in the name.... Sump Plug... and no it's not plug...:lol

You can't miss it, big hex headed bolt right in the middle, on the rear facing edge of the sump where it drops down nearer the road. Basically, towards the rear of the engine, not the front.

Make sure, you go back further than the front Diff though, as the first time I went to do mine, I drained the Diff, sat there wondering why so little oil had come out, and why it smelt so bad... and had to walk round to the motor factors to go and get new oil etc for that.:doh

 

[Banshee]

Make sure, you go back further than the front Diff though, as the first time I went to do mine, I drained the Diff, sat there wondering why so little oil had come out, and why it smelt so bad... and had to walk round to the motor factors to go and get new oil etc for that.:doh

This is exactly why I asked!!!!! I would have done that!!!!